1999 Honda Prelude oil

[IHondaGuy]

I recently baught a 1999 Honda Prelude it has a DOH-VTec 2.2 L H22 block with 99,000 miles. The person I got it from kept up oil changes with 10w-30 and within the last 5years 5w-30 High milage Penzoil. The Vtec selinoid has an oil leak and so does the valve cover gasket. Doesn't seem like penzoil HM isn't serving its purpouse. Anyways, I want to use Mobile1 synthetic. My car takes 5w-30. I bought the 0w-20, due to what I read in BITOG " Oil University" write up. But then, I saw a comment on a post (on a completly different site that I noticed many do not seem to know what they are talking about) that 20 grade isn't good for DOH-Vtec so that got me wondering if I should exchange the 20... I live in central Florida so the Temp here never goes below 30.
With all this insight..which mobile 1 would you guys advise for sludge clean up, if any, and how much does oil actually effect Vtec??? Sorry this is so long but detail usually helps someone help someone.. Thanks in advance.

 

[xshoex]

Personally I would do mobil 1 10w40 high mileage

 

[TeddyVelvet]

If it was my Prelude, I would use ACEA A3/B4 lubricants. There are at least two choices of such oils at Wal-Mart; any will do. It would be worth your while to address the leaks directly rather than trying to cover up the issues with high mileage oils. Forget what you have read in the university; high performance VTEC engines of your vintage should use 30 or 40 grade lubricants to ensure proper oil pressure and film establishment.

Preludes are nice rides. Keep the faith, brother.

 

[Brybo86]

Yeh I wouldn't go to a 20 weight, stick with 30 or maybe 40 if you think it will slow down the leak

 

[crazyoildude]

PHM is a great High mileage motor oil stick with that if your engine leaks a little on that it will probably leak more on something else..
I have found by far that synthetic oil leaks the most in an old engine.

 

[SR5]

Originally Posted By: rickmeseke
Personally I would do mobil 1 10w40 high mileage


I agree, M1 HM 10W-40 is what I would use. It's a good API SN & Euro ACEA A3/B3 oil.

If you like M1, stick to their High Milage oils with this car. The only three I would consider are M1 HM 5W-30, M1 HM 10W-30 and M1 HM 10W-40. They are all a little thicker than regular M1, which is better for this car. Plus they have seal conditioners to help stop leaks and a bit higher zinc for better wear protection.

I always liked the Honda Preludes.

 

[termigator]

I have a 96' Prelude VTEC (123000 miles) and I also live in the Central Florida area. It runs just fine on 10w-30. Your Prelude is newer, but I believe everything is still around the same area. The solenoid gasket is a known trouble spot, but an easy fix. The part itself is under $20. I had the same leak and replaced the gasket myself. I also replaced the valve gasket after replacing the valve cover with a red powder coated one. Try Googling the solenoid gasket repair (or try YouTube). If you need, I think I still have the pics of the repair I downloaded about ten years ago when I got my Prelude. The Prelude is an underrated but seriously awesome handling vehicle that shows you don't need tons of horsepower to have fun. I hope you enjoy it as much as I have enjoyed mine.

 

[Cujet]

I drive an S2000, AP2 with a turbo kit on it. (with the 2.2L engine, I know, it's not the same) It's clear that between the additional heat from the turbo and the Vtec needs, the engine does well with heavier viscosity oils. In fact, over the last few years, via used oil analysis, I've worked up to 15W-50. (clearly, that's because of the fact that I have no oil cooler and the 20 pounds of boost/additional oil heating)

At a minimum in Florida, I'd choose a quality 10W-30 synthetic. Mobil 1, 10W-30 is always an excellent choice.

I also agree with the post above, Mobil 1, 10W-40 High Mileage is a good choice for your engine.

In Florida, it's generally warm all the time. There is little need for the cold weather starting protection of super thin oils. Due to the generally elevated engine and oil temps here, higher viscosity oils perform quite well.

I live in Jupiter, and I've found that I always have significantly better Used Oil Analysis results with slightly higher viscosity. All 3 of my F150's for example, 4.6L, 5.4L and 3.5L return better UOA results on Mobil 1 10W-30, than the OEM oil 5W-20. Sometimes as much as half the wear metals.

One of the trucks just rolled over 330,000 miles.

Edit: I wanted to add that the combo of very high RPM engines, high oil temp and extremely thin oils puts connecting rod bearings at risk. There is a reason BMW's eat con-rod bearings here in Florida. Many people are unaware that inertial loads are far greater than combustion loads. It's the high RPM that overloads the thin oil and ruins the bearings.

 

[mazdamonky]

My vote is to fix both oil leaks as they are both fairly easy repairs that can be done in an hour or two. Then, I would use a 5w30 (as recommended by the manufacturer) synthetic as you live in Florida where it never gets cold and temps can get somewhat hot. Any good quality name brand 5w30 synthetic should give you another 100k miles of life easily. Castrol Edge seems to be doing the best at cleaning my 200k miles Protege as it is turning straight black the fastest. Last I saw, the 10w30 has a really high TBN also. I am using some Quakerstate Defy on my current oil change, next will be some QSUD or PP/PUP. Then, I will be using whatever Synthetic I can get the best deal on. Pretty much, any synthetic should be great once you have done some cleaning. I would say run a high TBN synthetic for 5k mile OCI's across 2 or 3 OCI's, then run whatever name brand synthetic you can find for cheap.

 

[TeddyVelvet]

Originally Posted By: mazdamonky
My vote is to fix both oil leaks as they are both fairly easy repairs that can be done in an hour or two.


This.

 

[IHondaGuy]

Thank you for your thoughts.. Honestly, I am new to all this. I do not know what those ACEA A3/B4 lubricants are and how to tell which oils carry them. I plan to change the oil within 300-400 miles for the first two times for a guarantee clean mostly with good sludge and oxide cleanup. I feel 40 would be too thick, I do not race my car. I do drive it for an 65 miles (highway miles) once or twice a month, sometimes exceeding 85mph (once in a while , I'll go 90 for a couple min

, because my Prelude has the need for it as much as I do ) Any ways, with this, I don't think my engine get to 212F much. Unless VTEC is known to make it happen easier in Orlando traffic conditions and/or highway driving. Also 40 would hold too much heat in one area, wouldn't you think? What about doing a 30 or 20 and adding a bit of Lucas lube? Does anyone think that stuff is bad news?

 

[NormanBuntz]

Stay away from 0w-20 and 5w-20. The only 1999 models that Honda has back specified for 5w-20 is the Accord 4 cyl and V-6 and the Civic. No 1999 models are back specified for 0w-20.

Stick with 5w-30 or 10w-30 (my choice for Florida climate).

For comparison, the Honda spec for the 2000 thru 2009 Honda S2000 is 10w-30.

 

[mazdamonky]

I wouldn't worry about any additives. 300-400 miles isn't long enough to allow an oil to do its job at cleaning. The shortest amount of time I would go is 1500 miles on the oil. If you really want to shorten your changes, go 3000, or when it turns straight black for two oil changes.

Just get a good quality 5w30 and be happy. 5w30 Castrol edge/edge HMO, 5w30 Mobil 1/Mobil 1 HMO, Pennzoil Platinum 5w30, and Quakerstate Ultimute Durability 5w30 are all oils I would happily run in my car with no qualms and not think a second time about it.

 

[jmb106]

Originally Posted By: IHondaGuy
Thank you for your thoughts.. Honestly, I am new to all this. I do not know what those ACEA A3/B4 lubricants are and how to tell which oils carry them. I plan to change the oil within 300-400 miles for the first two times for a guarantee clean mostly with good sludge and oxide cleanup. I feel 40 would be too thick, I do not race my car. I do drive it for an 65 miles (highway miles) once or twice a month, sometimes exceeding 85mph (once in a while , I'll go 90 for a couple min

, because my Prelude has the need for it as much as I do ) Any ways, with this, I don't think my engine get to 212F much. Unless VTEC is known to make it happen easier in Orlando traffic conditions and/or highway driving. Also 40 would hold too much heat in one area, wouldn't you think? What about doing a 30 or 20 and adding a bit of Lucas lube? Does anyone think that stuff is bad news?


Fix the leaks nothing any novice mechanic can fix in a couple hours, if i lived closer i would do it for you. I personally use Valvoline Maxlife 5w30 in all my Hondas of that vintage. get it at Walmart for less than $20. You have anymore ?'s PM me.

 

[Cujet]

Again, a great choice is Mobil 1, 10W-30.

And, for goodness sake, avoid Lucas products.

Lucas oil stabilizer and other products actually cause the oil to foam in high RPM engines. This can be an absolute disaster.