16 mazda cx5 2.5... oil and filter brand and type?

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Originally Posted by harrydog
Here in the USA only 0W-20 is recommended. And it also says "Mazda Genuine 0W-20 Oil is required to achieve optimum fuel economy."
In Europe, both 0W-20 and 5W-30 are equally recommended except for temps below -30 F where only 0W-20 is recommended.
In other parts of the world up to 10W-30 is recommended.

My wife is contemplating buying a new CX-5 or CX-30 and if so I'll be using 5W-30 full synthetic.

A dexos1 Gen 3 (or Gen 2) 5W-30 will be OK. However, you will definitely experience worse fuel economy with it than with 0W-20, and in 99% of the scenarios, will experience the same engine wear. 0W-20 is the recommended oil for new Audi, BMW, Jaguar, etc. vehicles, and we are talking about a Japanese vehicle here. 0W-20 is also the preferred grade in dexos1 Gen 3. 5W-30 has become legacy oil for legacy engines, just like 10W-40 became legacy oil in the past. Besides, when it comes to higher viscosity, where do you stop? If you're really worried about engine wear, there are dexos2/C3 and thicker oils. Moreover, more and more vehicles are starting to recommend 0W-16, which means you won't be running the lowest viscosity.
 
As of 05/2019, per PQIA, Mobil 1 AP 5w20 has a Noack of 8.5%. With a SA of .8%, EP likely has similar Noack so I think that will be my choice.
 
Originally Posted by buster
As of 05/2019, per PQIA, Mobil 1 AP 5w20 has a Noack of 8.5%. With a SA of .8%, EP likely has similar Noack so I think that will be my choice.



I am considering the AP as well.
 
If we assume that the two main contributors to IVD's are SA and Noack (Noack being less likely per the Afton study), then I think Mobil 1 formulations are ideal for these engines. My .02

Mazda's are relatively immune to IVD's too so this would be a good preventative measure.
 
I'm on the fence between M1 and Modern Engine. Modern Engine now claims up to 40% reduction in IVD's.
 
Originally Posted by buster
I'm on the fence between M1 and Modern Engine. Modern Engine now claims up to 40% reduction in IVD's.



It's probably a tossup between those two but availability might be the key. I've seen the AP in Walmart on the very top shelf. The Modern Engine disappeared quite a while back.

Online of course would be easier, then price comes into play.
 
Originally Posted by PimTac
Originally Posted by buster
I'm on the fence between M1 and Modern Engine. Modern Engine now claims up to 40% reduction in IVD's.



It's probably a tossup between those two but availability might be the key. I've seen the AP in Walmart on the very top shelf. The Modern Engine disappeared quite a while back.

Online of course would be easier, then price comes into play.


You are right. Availability for VME is not great. Some dealerships are carrying it now and it can be ordered.
 
I've got the 2.5 in a '17 Mazda 6. Once a year changes (about 5k miles) with Idemitsu Zepro Advanced Moly and Mazda filters for the first 2. Now it's well broken in, going to switch to M1 AP picked up on clearance.
I also picked up a supply of Rotella Gas Truck in 0W-20 that looks like it would be ideal for this engine. That will go in once the M1 is used up.
My only complaint is my performance. There is a cross member in the front of the engine that isn't a cross member. It's only a support for shrouding and maybe the radiator. It bends if you try and use it as a jacking point. I get to wear the dunce cap for that discovery.
 
I don't think any existing oil can beat the Mobil 1 Extended Performance 0W-20 (only the 0W-20, not the other SAE viscosity grades) in GDI IVD protection in this engine: PAO-and-AN-based, mid-SAPS, and extra antioxidant -- everything you want for helping reduce the IVD. Moreover, it's extremely cheap at Walmart.
 
Originally Posted by Gokhan
I don't think any existing oil can beat the Mobil 1 Extended Performance 0W-20 (only the 0W-20, not the other SAE viscosity grades) in GDI IVD protection in this engine: PAO-and-AN-based, mid-SAPS, and extra antioxidant -- everything you want for helping reduce the IVD. Moreover, it's extremely cheap at Walmart.


thumbsup2.gif
 
Originally Posted by spasm3
I'm considering amsoil signature 10w30 for summer use, as the noack is 4.1


Good Noack, but it's a full SAP oil. SA is 1.2%. Not ideal for GDI.
 
How does the pennzoil platinum (regular not ultra) stack up to the mobil 1 ep or ap?

And what's the verdict on mobile AP or EP? Which of those 2 is better for the engine? (Daily driver in iowa)

I'm a fan of pennzoil so I'm interested in the platinum
 
You made no mention of your vehicle age, name, model, engine type.......etc. Nowadays, you buy the oil that best fits your engine and driving habits.

Pennzoil Platinum is marketed to compete against Mobil-1 Vanilla.
Pennzoil Ultra Platinum is Pennzoil's Super Premium, to compete against Mobil-1 EP and Castrol EP.
Pennzoil (SOPUS) has no Pennzoil label to compete with AP's Annual. They also don't put mileage guarantees on the Ultra label. Could explain why it sells so poorly and more difficult to find.

My mileage guarantee using Pennzoil Ultra Platinum is 4K....... that's my forever OCI number in my Hyundai 2.4 GDI. I keep my vehicles forever ( birth until death)
 
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When looking at the API required in Mexico Mazda requires an API of SM. Wow, that goes back to vehicles made 10 years ago. Guess Mexico has issues with meeting American Petroleum Institute standards today.
 
Originally Posted by Bill_W
When looking at the API required in Mexico Mazda requires an API of SM. Wow, that goes back to vehicles made 10 years ago. Guess Mexico has issues with meeting American Petroleum Institute standards today.

It's not only API SM but also conventional oil. That's because synthetic (Group III) motor oil is still too expensive there. Actually even the conventional (Group II) motor oil is too expensive and the most popular oil there is dino (Group I) 25W-40, 25W-50, 15W-40 (high-Noack PCMO version, not low-Noack HDEO version), etc.
 
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