15w50 M1 in VW V6 w. 105k miles???

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First time poster, long time lurker here.

Currently run 0-40 M1 with no consumption but theres some cam chain tensioner rattle upon startup which initially I though was a pulley bearing going out. My indy (deals with older VWs mostly) recommendeds moving to 15w50 M1 to help quiet the motor. I was planning on trying 0-30 GC next oci...opinions on whether this switch to 15w50 is neccesary or not? I plan on keeping this car another 100k and don't mind the lost mpg for added protection if this isn't an overkill move. I live in GA too if that helps. Thanks

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Bill
 
Welcome!

I'd try the GC first before going up to a 50. At least you can say you exhausted the options.

None of these oils are going to give you a protection problem.
 
The M1 0w-40 shears to a 30wt. oil pretty quick in a few thousand miles. I would move to Mobil 1 Turbo Diesel Truck 5W-40 (formerly called Truck and SUV). Delvac 1 is also the same exact oil just a different name. 5w-40 certainly won't be as thick as 15w-50. The M1 TDT is shear stable and one of Mobil's very best oils.
 
While the options above are good the best option is to mix 5w-30 Mobil 1 EP with the 15w-50 Mobil 1 EP. I have had great results with this mix. 3 to 1 ratio would be a good starting point. I run this mix to 15,000 in my Honda Accord with great results after 11,000 on a UOA.
 
I don't know that much about VWs but why not address the cam chain tension problem directly rather than masking the noise with thicker oil? Admittedly I run 20w-50 in my coupe to quiet the valve train, so I share your concern, but mine already has 260K miles and could use a head rebuild right now.
 
Wow, that UOA seems pretty impressive based off of the responses with the post. I'm going to try the 3:1 ratio of 5/30 and 15/50 you recommend. I took a look at a couple 0-30 GC UOAs on engines over 100k and they seem a bit higher than what what you posted.
 
I came into massive amounts of M1 15W50 which I've been doing a 50/50 mix with 5W30. Didn't notice any change in noise levels though. Is your mechanic impying a stretched timing chain?
 
He is implying that the 0-40 I've been running may be TOO easy to pour (high or low viscosity?) when cold and is running out of the cam chain tensioner piston which takes a second or 2 to pressurize and fully tension the cam chain. he also thinks its a good move as far as sealing the piston rings as time moves on and the motor gets older and theres increased blow by. The timing chain rattle has always been there since day 1 (family member bought the car brand new). On really cold mornings, it'll rattle the first 1-2 seconds and then go away. This isn't an issue that is going to make me walk to work ever, just something to keep the old girl sounding her best IF it is a prudent move. Thats where you guys come in.
 
I'd try a good Mobil Delvac 1,5w-40, or Mobil 1, 10w-40 Motorcycle oil first...that should solve the chain rattling issue.

The Mobil 1, 0w-40 is functionally a 30wt oil even when new and it shears quickly in service.

TS
 
Quote:


He is implying that the 0-40 I've been running may be TOO easy to pour (high or low viscosity?) when cold and is running out of the cam chain tensioner piston which takes a second or 2 to pressurize and fully tension the cam chain.




If the oil is going to run out, it's going to run out when hot. The cold "w" weight is not when the oil is its thinnest. If the tensioner is that out of spec, it should be replaced.
 
It's amazing what many mechanics think about what XW-Y means. Anyhow, you say it's not burning any oil so your engine is still nice and tight ring-wise, so no need to up the viscosity. I wouldn't worry about the noisy chain. At some point, just replace it when it gets too bad.
 
Since you say you have 105,000 miles on the car, I would run two treatments of Auto-RX and use Chevron Delo 400 15W-40 as both the "clean oil" and the "rinse oil."

It would clean everything up nicely, since you said you wanted to keep the car for an additional 100k.

But that's just me.
 
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