10w30 & 5w30 - is there really that much diff?

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I bought a new truck last year (06 Tocama v6 engine) and it was speced at 5w30 then the SB ok 5w20. I bought about 100 quarts of one buck Dollar Tree TropArtic 10w30 semisenthetic prior to buying the truck. Now there is lots of 10w30 pre Deposit Sheild at Big Lots. Anything really wrong using 10w30? I live in South Louisiana where the temps hit almost 100 degrees in the summer and rarely hit 30s in the winter.
 
It will run on 10w30, 5w30, and 5w20. Best = 5w20, Good = 5w30, and Poorest = 10w30. Run what you will.
 
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Poorest = 10w30.




I don't think so.
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Use & enjoy your 10W-30 Trop Artic stash in the Tacoma!

Here’s a viscosity comparison of pre-Deposit Shield Havoline 5W-30 & 10W-30:


Code:

Viscosity in cSt

TEMP Havoline Havoline

C F 5W-30 10W-30

0 32 573 814

5 41 403 556

10 50 293 389

15 59 218 280

20 68 165 206

25 77 127 155

30 86 100 118





Note that 10W-30 is about 10 degrees F behind 5W-30. On a typical March day in Southern Louisiana, your 10W-30 is going to be thinner than some guy starting-up in the upper Midwest!
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Also, by far, the majority of 5W-30's and 10W-30's share the same GF-4 add pack, so what you will read about 5W-30's being better built is simply nonsense.
 
Our new '04 Tacoma - well, new to us. Came home with Pennzoil 5w-30 in it, which we used for almost 4k miles; I then switched to GC 0w-30, which is thicker then the 5w-30 - haven't noticed a bit of difference, and we live in Colorado, where it's gotten down right cold this winter.
 
I would run it(though I prefer 5w30 I will not pass up a good value and it's still a GF4 Spec oil which is great The 1GRFE engine is designed to run ILSAC engine oil The viscosity is secondary, available ILSAC oils include 0w20,5w20,5w30 and 10w30 ). How much is the Havoline at Big and Lots? I will check mine when I get back to town.

Great truck and engine by the way !
 
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Also, by far, the majority of 5W-30's and 10W-30's share the same GF-4 add pack, so what you will read about 5W-30's being better built is simply nonsense.




The 5W and 10w generally don't share the same base oils. There's a much greater chance some Group I exists in a portion that 10W.... less chance it's in the 5W.
 
It still has to pass the same sequence tests despite the potential to have lesser base oil the sequence tests to meet GF4 are the same. Those test include resistance to deposit formation, sludge build up and wild viscosity changes.
I believe that a 5w30 is slightly better but not so much better to prevent me from utilizing 10w30 that meets the saem GF4 Specs if it is a good value. I prefer thiner oil but I will not let that cloud my sense of value and performance.
 
Triple, that's just a "Bitogism" that gets parroted about from thread to thread.

Show me the current MSDS that indicates a GF-4/SM 10W-30 contains a Grp I base oil that is not blended with Grp II+ or higher.

At one time, I thought Citgo 10W-30 would be an example, but Citgo kept this oil grade at SL for the latest license.
 
Bryan makes some good observations, that both viscosity grades are passing the same GF-4 tests.

I have no problems with anyone who prefers a thinner viscosity grade, let's just include some fact & science in the discussions!
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How much is the Havoline at Big and Lots? $1.98 a quart and $7.50 a gallon. I know not great, but not bad.


Thanks for the replies.
 
Thanks. The gallon price is not unreasonable. Worth buying 3 gallons to cover 2 oil changes. For 15 bucks you have 10k miles or a years worth of oil.

My wife wants to take her 4 runner to the dealer for her 10k mile oil change because she has a "free" coupon they sent her after the purchase. I don't mind because I am curious what kind of oil they use. I will likely embarass my wife for certain at the service department next weekend by drilling the service advisor on the oil and their other products and services. It could be anything from 5w20,5w30 or 10w30 and I will be fine with it.
 
Nothing wrong with 10-30 . But if that's your only car you already covered 100K with your current oil stash. I would not buy that many years ahead or even extend that out for more years of oil.
 
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My wife wants to take her 4 runner to the dealer for her 10k mile oil change because she has a "free" coupon they sent her after the purchase. I don't mind because I am curious what kind of oil they use.




I decided it's not worth the coupon. I had a Saabaroo with "free" oil changes. Well, it ended up costing me a bent dipstick, stripped oil pan bolt threads, overfilled crankcase, and an hour of wasted time. I'd rather do it myself and have it done right, with no collateral damage.
 
If the 10w30 oil is energy conserving, I would think it would have to very good base stocks to match the same performance specs as a lighter oil and less viscisity improvers = less chance of deposits.
 
I would use that 10w30 and pat yourself on the back for getting a good deal ($1 a quart is great).

It will be fine in your warm climate.

I bet if you take it to the toyota dealer for changes, they dump bulk 10w30 in it.
 
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