1/2 qt Mobil 1 Racing 0w30

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regal55

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Anyone else see adding a half a quart of Mobile one racing 0w30 as being one of the better oil additives. Almost any oil is compatible with a 1/2 quart of another or else we would have to stay with the same oil for life.

I'm going with 5 quarts 0w20 Mazda SN w/Moly and 1/2 quart Mobile one racing. But that's just because I have the Mazda oil on hand.

If you look at the VOA of the Mobil Racing 0w30 it works out to be an ideal boost to regular mobile AE 0w20 & 0w30 that you can buy at wally world for cheap. If you have a convenient source of TGMO that would be another option.

So 5 qts Mobil 1 0w20 + 1/2 Qt Racing 0w30 = about $35. Seems the way to go if you think added ZDDP & Moly are good insurance.
 
Originally Posted By: dparm
Right, except that it's hard to get M1R anywhere except online for $10+/qt.


But even at $20 qt shipped (amazon) its in the same ballpark as most additives. And its still a whole lot cheaper than using full Motul, Redline, RP, etc.

Just seems a good option, ten bucks per oil change isn't a big cost for the added insurance that maybe pure SN isn't the answer to the universe.
 
In my opinion, it's a waste and I don't think you need to use it, but it's your money and your car.
 
If you HAVE to add something to make yourself feel better.... Racing oil, so called, does NOT include the additive packages which street oil needs to be used for 1000's of miles.
 
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What damage will your engine suffer from using the straight oil is it an older flat tappet engine.

If not rather than cheap insurance, it is an expensive additive unless you engine specifically needs the features you mention and exactly what percentage of the additives does it need and what percentage will you get to by adding this.

Seams silly just to add and hope unless you have specific needs.

As always you money, your engine!!!!!!!!!!!!!

eddie
 
I'm not sure it will be of that much benfit, but i also think that it will absolutely NOT do the harm others are implying.

Being a pure racing oil, it has an almost non-existent detergent/dispersant add pack, and subsequent lower TBN (like most other PURE racing oils), but the decent TBN, and very good detergent/disp. add pack of the Mazda Idemitsu oil will make up for that little bit.

WHERE can ANYONE buy M1 Racing for $10.00/qt. ?????!!!!!
confused2.gif

The cheapest I've EVER seen it is ~$16.00/qt., and for that price, I'd rather use a 0W-xx Red Line oil as an 'additive', given the higher moly content than the M1R, and the better street oil add pack otherwise, as well as the lower cost per quart. They both have very similar VIs, so CATERHAM cannot bias on that one.
wink.gif
 
Its $20 shipped for a quart. Used as an oil treatment on a 6Qt sump 1/2 a quart is all that is needed to get the phosphorous up +100ppm, which given SN 0w20s are in the 600ppm range for P, seems a reasonable way to spend ten bucks.
 
Originally Posted By: regal55
Almost any oil is compatible with a 1/2 quart of another or else we would have to stay with the same oil for life.


I've seen assumptions like that clog up entire industrial system components. It's VERY dangerous to assume oil is oil and "it should be compatible as long as I only put a little bit in". I recently has an incident where a customer's tech thought that and mixed two lubricants that turn into a big ball of snot. Imagine having to clean a lubricant snot ball out of your motor....
 
Originally Posted By: regal55
Its $20 shipped for a quart. Used as an oil treatment on a 6Qt sump 1/2 a quart is all that is needed to get the phosphorous up +100ppm, which given SN 0w20s are in the 600ppm range for P, seems a reasonable way to spend ten bucks.


What makes you think you need more phos?
 
Originally Posted By: camelCase
Originally Posted By: regal55
Almost any oil is compatible with a 1/2 quart of another or else we would have to stay with the same oil for life.


I've seen assumptions like that clog up entire industrial system components. It's VERY dangerous to assume oil is oil and "it should be compatible as long as I only put a little bit in". I recently has an incident where a customer's tech thought that and mixed two lubricants that turn into a big ball of snot. Imagine having to clean a lubricant snot ball out of your motor....


In the case of automotive engine oils they are miscible. Or like someone else mentioned if they weren't we'd be stuck with using one brand of oil for the life of our cars.
 
Originally Posted By: Garak
One has to be aware, however, that M1 Racing 0w-30 is not an API licensed oil, so there is no requirement or guarantee of miscibility.


I asked Mobil that very question back in the days of SM oil and they said it could be mixed. Followed by a why would you want to mix it, and a use the oil that your car calls for.
 
He he, well, there you go. If they say it can be mixed, that's good enough. But, I'd say the same thing, why would you want to mix it, find something on the shelf that is satisfactory. There are a bajillion oils out there. This is one of the cases where I really dislike mixing. I appreciate that some people do it to modify viscometrics, but I'm not terribly comfortable with the idea that one can improve an oil by tweaking additive packages through mixing.

Really, if one is concerned about running a 0w-20 SN/GF-5, well then run it, mixing stuff to it means you're out of spec. If you don't care about being out of spec, then there are all kinds of options out there. Run Delvac Elite 222 0w-30. It'll have all the zinc one could want. Or, run GC. Or, see if RP has a 5w-20 or 0w-20 in their HPS line. Or, get Red Line.
 
Originally Posted By: Garak
He he, well, there you go. If they say it can be mixed, that's good enough. But, I'd say the same thing, why would you want to mix it, find something on the shelf that is satisfactory. There are a bajillion oils out there. This is one of the cases where I really dislike mixing. I appreciate that some people do it to modify viscometrics, but I'm not terribly comfortable with the idea that one can improve an oil by tweaking additive packages through mixing.

Really, if one is concerned about running a 0w-20 SN/GF-5, well then run it, mixing stuff to it means you're out of spec. If you don't care about being out of spec, then there are all kinds of options out there. Run Delvac Elite 222 0w-30. It'll have all the zinc one could want. Or, run GC. Or, see if RP has a 5w-20 or 0w-20 in their HPS line. Or, get Red Line.


LOL If it were as easy as buying an oil and using it w/o mixing or adding anything to it this wouldn't be Bitog.
smile.gif
 
Originally Posted By: regal55
Anyone else see adding a half a quart of Mobile one racing 0w30 as being one of the better oil additives. Almost any oil is compatible with a 1/2 quart of another or else we would have to stay with the same oil for life.

I'm going with 5 quarts 0w20 Mazda SN w/Moly and 1/2 quart Mobile one racing. But that's just because I have the Mazda oil on hand.

If you look at the VOA of the Mobil Racing 0w30 it works out to be an ideal boost to regular mobile AE 0w20 & 0w30 that you can buy at wally world for cheap. If you have a convenient source of TGMO that would be another option.

So 5 qts Mobil 1 0w20 + 1/2 Qt Racing 0w30 = about $35. Seems the way to go if you think added ZDDP & Moly are good insurance.


Why? Why not 5-1/2 qts Mobil 1 0w-20? Before using any additive (including an odd quart of a different weight oil), you might have a specific goal in mind (e.g. reducing oil consumption). I doubt that it would hurt anything, but 1/2 quart of M1R is not likely to do much either.

Adding Moly may or may not be good insurance, but it is reasonably well known and should accomplish some specific objectives.
 
Originally Posted By: demarpaint
Originally Posted By: Garak
One has to be aware, however, that M1 Racing 0w-30 is not an API licensed oil, so there is no requirement or guarantee of miscibility.


I asked Mobil that very question back in the days of SM oil and they said it could be mixed. Followed by a why would you want to mix it, and a use the oil that your car calls for.


+1 to the folks at Mobil.
 
I mix equal parts of M1 0w20 AFE & M1 Racing 0w50 for my high performance scooter.

No one has this many miles on their 50cc scooter without adjusting valves....'cept me.
This tiny engine spins from 8.5k--11k RPM's over 90% of its life. This mix is amazing.

Got the "recipe" from a guy with SPOTLESS UOA's on here from his raced Vettes and Porsches.
 
Originally Posted By: demarpaint
LOL If it were as easy as buying an oil and using it w/o mixing or adding anything to it this wouldn't be Bitog.

Sure, but I still obsess about not mixing and not blending.
wink.gif
 
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