0W40 Can Ruin A 5W20/5W30 Oil Spec'd Engine?

[Shannow]

Originally Posted By: BlueOvalFitter
[His truck is broken. The steering wheel is on the wrong side. And, he talks funny. Is that a lower Manhattan or Bronx accent?
25W50 oil.....Hmmmmm.......I wonder if I use that in my engine if I would have to buy a TORQUE MASTER starter just to get the engine to turn over?


If I do an Oil change on my wife's car this weekend, I'll try to remember to grab a pic of the 25W60 pouring into the jug...just using it as an additive, not the complete oil change.

Ran 25W70 in my J-Car one winter, to prove to BITOG the "nothing blew up"

 

[BlueOvalFitter]

Originally Posted By: Shannow
Originally Posted By: BlueOvalFitter
[His truck is broken. The steering wheel is on the wrong side. And, he talks funny. Is that a lower Manhattan or Bronx accent?
25W50 oil.....Hmmmmm.......I wonder if I use that in my engine if I would have to buy a TORQUE MASTER starter just to get the engine to turn over?


If I do an Oil change on my wife's car this weekend, I'll try to remember to grab a pic of the 25W60 pouring into the jug...just using it as an additive, not the complete oil change.

Ran 25W70 in my J-Car one winter, to prove to BITOG the "nothing blew up"

I used to race/build engines/build hot rods. I remember this guy brought me a '67 Chevy truck with like 230K miles on it with like 2 psi oil pressure at idle. I did an oil change on it using KENDALL NITRO 70 wt. oil. The oil pressure jumped up to like 13 psi at idle and at cruising speeds, 17 psi, if I remember correctly. He couldn't afford an engine, just yet, so eventually I installed a MELLING HV oil pump. It got him through the summer until he could afford another engine. I hooked him up with a 327 I had sitting in my collection, for $500 installed. I kept his engine (a 350) and rebuilt it at a later date.

 

[BlueOvalFitter]

I started this thread and now I'm getting out before I get into trouble. Have fun cutting me up. Bye.

 

[webfors]

Originally Posted By: BlueOvalFitter
Originally Posted By: Shannow
https://www.castrol.com/en_au/australia/...ng-stories.html

Ken Dalton's piece is worth watching.

His truck is broken. The steering wheel is on the wrong side. And, he talks funny. Is that a lower Manhattan or Bronx accent?
25W50 oil.....Hmmmmm.......I wonder if I use that in my engine if I would have to buy a TORQUE MASTER starter just to get the engine to turn over?

 

[FCD]

If somebody can prove to me that 0W-40 in an engine spec'd for 5W-20 or 5W-30 will ruin it i will cut off my t35ticles and eat them.

 

[Shannow]

LOL

 

[Virtus_Probi]

Originally Posted By: Shannow
Originally Posted By: BlueOvalFitter
[His truck is broken. The steering wheel is on the wrong side. And, he talks funny. Is that a lower Manhattan or Bronx accent?
25W50 oil.....Hmmmmm.......I wonder if I use that in my engine if I would have to buy a TORQUE MASTER starter just to get the engine to turn over?

If I do an Oil change on my wife's car this weekend, I'll try to remember to grab a pic of the 25W60 pouring into the jug...just using it as an additive, not the complete oil change.
Ran 25W70 in my J-Car one winter, to prove to BITOG the "nothing blew up"

Hmmm...how much snow did you get that winter??
;^)
25WXX is tested for cold cranking at 14F and pumpability at 5F...I'm sure I could put that 25W70 in my car now and run it until November or so with no issues.
Although I do swear that my new Valvoline FS 5W30 gave me a slow crank recently at 20F...seems nuts. Maybe my battery from December is already a POS?

 

[Virtus_Probi]

Originally Posted By: BlueOvalFitter
I started this thread and now I'm getting out before I get into trouble. Have fun cutting me up. Bye.

Come back and listen to this great song!
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UrfFHzqGBZI

 

[Virtus_Probi]

Originally Posted By: webfors
Originally Posted By: BlueOvalFitter
Originally Posted By: Shannow
https://www.castrol.com/en_au/australia/...ng-stories.html
Ken Dalton's piece is worth watching.

His truck is broken. The steering wheel is on the wrong side. And, he talks funny. Is that a lower Manhattan or Bronx accent?
25W50 oil.....Hmmmmm.......I wonder if I use that in my engine if I would have to buy a TORQUE MASTER starter just to get the engine to turn over?

Be careful about poking fun at that guy or you might hear, "Now THAT'S a KNOIFE" in the same "NYC" accent!!
;^)

Sorry, I should learn how to multi-quote...

 

[demarpaint]

Originally Posted By: ZeeOSix
Originally Posted By: Shannow
What am I missing ?


550,000 highway miles at low RPM. Driving conditions way down in the lower LH corner.

The "Underground Racing" video (just below the pilot truck video) pouring 15W-50 into the engine is better. Maybe they better try some 0W-16 for a few more HP and save 5 oz of gas on that speed run.

Can someone explain to me what exactly low rpm driving is?

We have three vehicles, everything the same except the rear end gearing.

1. Has a 3.00 rear. Which is constantly lugging and downshifting to maintain speed. But cruises at the lowest rpms of the three.
2. Has a 3.73 rear. Which seems good. It downshifts but makes nice power but cruises at a higher rpm than the 3.00.

I've had all three and can tell you a 3.00 and 3.21 sucked.

Which engine is going to last the longest? I bet the answer isn't as simple as the lowest rpm operation.

 

[BlueOvalFitter]

Originally Posted By: Virtus_Probi
Originally Posted By: BlueOvalFitter
I started this thread and now I'm getting out before I get into trouble. Have fun cutting me up. Bye.

Come back and listen to this great song!
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UrfFHzqGBZI

Now, that's funny!

 

[userfriendly]

www.acadian-cajun.com

Search your family history here.

 

[Whimsey]

I ran 5W-50 oil in my 5W-30 spec'd Zetec engine for several years, before BITOG. It did not destroy the engine but it did make it feel sluggish and it definitely hurt the mpg by by 3 to 4 mpg. I went back to 5W-30 and all is well again

. I don't think a more viscous oil will hurt the engine but it may not help one that is not spec'd for it. No scientific proof just my opinion and observations.

Whimsey

 

[Graham Piccinini]

I am willing to put my money where my mouth is. If you can find proof that 0w40, 5w40, 0w50, 5w50, 15w50, or 20w50 killed a healthy engine that was "spec'ed for 0w20" anywhere between 32°F and 140°F+ - I will pay for the repairs.

 

[PimTac]

“Be careful about poking fun at that guy or you might hear, "Now THAT'S a KNOIFE" in the same "NYC" accent!!
;^)“


I think calling it a NYC accent might be off base. It’s not only the accent which is unique imo but also the words and terms used down under. Years ago while in SE Asia, my Aussie friends remarked on the vicious mozzies that attacked us at dusk while drinking the local beer. “No worries mate” was always mentioned in most conversations along with many other phrases.

The Australians are some of the most hospitable and easy going people I’ve come to know in my life. I’m glad I’ve met their acquaintances.

 

[JLTD]

Originally Posted By: Vladiator
I am willing to put my money where my mouth is. If you can find proof that 0w40, 5w40, 0w50, 5w50, 15w50, or 20w50 killed a healthy engine that was "spec'ed for 0w20" anywhere between 32°F and 140°F+ - I will pay for the repairs.


That's a bold statement and I won't take the bet because I agree with your position.

 

[SilverSnake]

Originally Posted By: Vladiator
I am willing to put my money where my mouth is. If you can find proof that 0w40, 5w40, 0w50, 5w50, 15w50, or 20w50 killed a healthy engine that was "spec'ed for 0w20" anywhere between 32°F and 140°F+ - I will pay for the repairs.


Not sure what proof you would require but I suspect your requirements would be difficult to meet. I would be willing to bet the use of a non-spec oils have damaged many an engine even if it didn't "kill" them. Got to give you credit though. Most posters on auto forums I have been on over the years that advocate non-spec oils would be nowhere in sight if a problem did result. I would be interested in what some of the experienced auto techs who are members have to say about this. I am also willing to bet they ALL have seen some engine problems result from the use of incorrect (non-spec) oils. Would an experienced techs verification serve as the proof you need to pay for the new engine? If so, then you might want to get your checkbook out.

Oh and you don't have to worry about any of my engines. I have been and will continue to use only factory specified oils.

 

[Shannow]

Only place that a non spec oil (or a homebrew mix) is likely to cause damage is if the "W" rating is totally inappropriate for the conditions.

edit...in the terms of the current part of the conversation...obviously going thicker then spec.

 

[fordman65]

Hello everyone,
Been a while but I am back.
The 0W-40 is a european specked oil.
Recommended by Mercedes, BMW, Porsche,Audi.
INMHO those car companies are very reputable and well respected.
Also those car companies do a 1 a year oil change.
Look at the climate conditi0ons in Europe compared to USA or other countries.
Can be very harsh.
In my honest (non scientifc) humble opinion.
You have the thin 0W with the protection of 40.
Plus if it is a long drain oil.
Save yourself some dollars. Do twice a year or once a year.

 

[BlueOvalFitter]

Originally Posted By: fordman65
Hello everyone,
Been a while but I am back.
The 0W-40 is a european specked oil.
Recommended by Mercedes, BMW, Porsche,Audi.
INMHO those car companies are very reputable and well respected.
Also those car companies do a 1 a year oil change.
Look at the climate conditi0ons in Europe compared to USA or other countries.
Can be very harsh.
In my honest (non scientifc) humble opinion.
You have the thin 0W with the protection of 40.
Plus if it is a long drain oil.
Save yourself some dollars. Do twice a year or once a year.

I like your response/opinion.