0w20 in a JD F510 with Kawasaki PA540V 17 hp ?

[SHOZ]

My F510 has been retired to trailer hauling mostly anymore. And used a lot under 50F. It never really gets warmed up though as it's mostly start and go, then turn off. I do let it run for the first 15 minutes or so when it's cold out. But it's always been a slow cranker when cold. I use to use 0w40 and now have 5w30 in it.

I don't anticipate any long time running in the summer use.

So 0w20? or what?

 

[tnt_motorsports]

I think oil level matters more than oil viscosity. That said, personally I would use 5W30 or the 0W40 you have already used.

Just my $0.02

 

[jeepman3071]

I wouldn't in that machine, only because the engine and transmission share the same oil.

 

[mrsilv04]

I have that engine in a JD 185. I've used 10w30 in it since it was new. What is the goal here again?

 

[Slick3914]

Stick with 5W-30

 

[SHOZ]

The goal is better starting and it's used in cold weather with the oil never getting to temp. I suppose I could look into getting bigger battery cables.

 

[jeepman3071]

I'd look into better battery cables. I just did a re-power on my grandfather's 24 year old Scag mower, and replacing the cables with 2/0 welding cables and nice terminals made it spin over a lot faster with the same size battery. I'd keep using a 0w40 or 5w30 synthetic. The oil shouldn't have that much impact on cold starting unless you were comparing a 15w40 or 20w50 to say a 0w30 or 0w20 in below zero temps.

 

[kschachn]

The goal is better starting and it's used in cold weather with the oil never getting to temp. I suppose I could look into getting bigger battery cables.

Cranking and pumpability is determined by the winter rating. If you’re having problems starting at warmer temperatures, then it’s not the oil.

And if you want it to warm up faster then a thicker oil is what you want.

 

[Invisible]

And if you want it to warm up faster then a thicker oil is what you want.

Is is the dilemma: a thicker oil will warm up presumably faster because of hydromantic friction. To be more specific, it will definitively get warmer than a thinner oil, there's no question about it.

However, a thicker oil takes longer to accumulate heat compared to a thinner oil, and it also takes longer to cool down than a thinner oil.

So, in winter, when it's very cold, it takes longer for that thick oil to gain temperature, even with higher hydromantic friction in play. In summer, it will definitively warm up quicker, but it will have a hard time getting rid of the heat, compared to a thinner oil. However, a thicker oil tends to protect better.

I'm just an armchair hobbyist who works on his own vehicles, so please don't be to harsh on my observations. I'm talking in relative terms, of course. I am curious what I got right, and what I got wrong in what I said above.

Thank you.

 

[SHOZ]

The problem is when it's around 30F or lower and a cold engine.

 

[mrsilv04]

I'm in Illinois, and mine is always in an unheated garage/shed. I've run 10w-30 since new. I also have a 350cca battery in mine, but original cables. I guess if you have a 230cca battery in it, it could be an issue.

I use this one. https://www.ruralking.com/rural-king-lawn-and-garden-battery-u1l-xt

 

[kschachn]

Is is the dilemma: a thicker oil will warm up presumably faster because of hydromantic friction. To be more specific, it will definitively get warmer than a thinner oil, there's no question about it.

However, a thicker oil takes longer to accumulate heat compared to a thinner oil, and it also takes longer to cool down than a thinner oil.

So, in winter, when it's very cold, it takes longer for that thick oil to gain temperature, even with higher hydromantic friction in play. In summer, it will definitively warm up quicker, but it will have a hard time getting rid of the heat, compared to a thinner oil. However, a thicker oil tends to protect better.

I'm just an armchair hobbyist who works on his own vehicles, so please don't be to harsh on my observations. I'm talking in relative terms, of course. I am curious what I got right, and what I got wrong in what I said above.

Thank you.

The specific heat capacity increases with the temperature. So as the oil warms up due to shear heating the heat capacity also increases.

 

[SHOZ]

I'd look into better battery cables. I just did a re-power on my grandfather's 24 year old Scag mower, and replacing the cables with 2/0 welding cables and nice terminals made it spin over a lot faster with the same size battery. I'd keep using a 0w40 or 5w30 synthetic. The oil shouldn't have that much impact on cold starting unless you were comparing a 15w40 or 20w50 to say a 0w30 or 0w20 in below zero temps.

I have the cable and terminals laying around to make up a set of good sized. I think this is the real issue.

 

[SHOZ]

I wouldn't in that machine, only because the engine and transmission share the same oil.

They do share the oil but hydraulic unit has a lower sump that is kept full by an overflow from the motor sump. When you drain the oil you cannot get it all out, maybe 2/3s. I would add half then more till it drained clear if I wanted all new oil. I usually just drained what came out and topped off for the motor, changing once a year.

But when the oil gets hot, over 230F I do notice it loses some top speed. It just isn't going to get hot anymore the way I use it.

 

[Cujet]

The Kawasaki V-Twin engines are well known for needing adequate viscosity. I don't know about your single cylinder, but would make the assumption that a similar family of parts are used, and similar requirements exist. Maybe choose a full synthetic that performs well at all temps, rather than trying to use an ultra low viscosity oil.

 

[SHOZ]

Why would it need a high viscosity if the oil never gets hot? It has full synthetic HM5w30 in it now.

 

[Cujet]

Why would it need a high viscosity if the oil never gets hot? It has full synthetic HM5w30 in it now.

I don't think other Kawasaki engines overheat the oil either. The thing with air cooled engines is that clearances are typically larger than water cooled engines, and oil consumption is slightly higher. Even when oil temp remains at 190ºF, the cylinder head and piston underside can be over 400 degrees.

In reality, I think the thin oil choice would work and not cause disaster in cold weather, light duty use. It might even be beneficial during cold start. However, it is at least a small risk, especially if one day, the engine gets used harder on a warm day.

You've probably heard my FL generator stories, where connecting rods broke aplenty, often within hours of startup. The factors included low oil viscosity and quality, high ambient temperatures and high loads, such as a water heater's 4500W element, on a 5000W generator. The solution was a simple switch to M1, 15W-50. Problem solved.

 

[SHOZ]

I ran it for years on 0w40 M1. But it's too thick when cold. On a two hour mow it would run about 200-210F with an oil cooler.

I guess I should have asked what oil to use for one that never gets warmed up and is basically a start stop operation as this will not be running for more than a half hour at a time at the most.

 

[NiwradND]

0w40 or 5w40 rotella

 

[Bighorn2500]

I use my LX188 w/ 17HP Kawasaki year around in MI. Either runs on 5w40 T6 or 0w40 Mobil 1. They’re spec’d for Xw30 & Xw40 weight oils.