0W20 for good protection?

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Can you imagine what those bearings would look like if xW-20 was used during track days?

I'll bet nobody running thinner oil than the specified 10W-60 sees any better bearing wear on stock bearings while keeping all other factors constant. Also, maybe guys are using 10W where it gets pretty cold and pushing the W rating to the limit or beyond, which doesn't help engine wear during very cold start-ups.
It sounds, from a glance, that maybe BMW should have invested some effort on a Spintron- sounds like it helps analyze harmonics of the entire engine.

Ben Strader of EFI University has some videos of their LS engine on the Spintron at 11,000 RPM… and it lives!
 
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Engines with oil sensitive cam phasers probably ought to get the viscosity they were made to use. I wouldn't put heavier oil in an EcoBoost engine unless you want trouble down the road.
Earlier Ford phaser equipped engines did far better with more viscous oil. Cam chain life in all years also improved from a likelihood of being “problematic at 80-100k. miles “ to troublefree at any mileage.
 
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Just getting a chance to chime in late in the thread

2.7 Tacoma 2 Oil changes ago in the heat of summer I went with the highly praised Mobil 0W40 and a K&N white filter after all to hear on here it's the best all around choice for your money

First start up it had valvetrain noise longer than it ever had in the previous oil changes ......that should have been my first sign
Any morning the ambient temp was below 45 it would get a low oil just for a split second and make some serious noise for about 2 to 3 seconds ran this oil 4k and couldn't wait to get it out

Next was some STP (Amalie) Euro 0w30 with a white K&N only very slightly less clatter on cold soak morning the colder the worse it was ran this exactly 5k

Today Halloween 2022 I did my traditional oil change for the winter and went for the first time in ages with Castrol and went with 0w20 Edge and a Toyota (Philippines) filter ......so far on a 43 degree morning zero clatter and zero low pressure indicator yet

It personally think it comes down ambient start up temp I want to side with thick is better but when it knocks and rattles like that on a cold morning I have to go with audible peace of mind
 

ZeeOSix

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It personally think it comes down ambient start up temp I want to side with thick is better but when it knocks and rattles like that on a cold morning I have to go with audible peace of mind
They were all 0W oils, so hard to believe the start-ups would be that different. Seems more like the K&N oil filters had a leaky ADBV allowing some oil to drain out of the oiling system when the engine was off as the real cause of the start-up noises when those filters were ran with 0W-xx oil.
 
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They were all 0W oils, so hard to believe the start-ups would be that different. Seems more like the K&N oil filters had a leaky ADBV allowing some oil to drain out of the oiling system when the engine was off as the real cause of the start-up noises when those filters were ran with 0W-xx oil.
That was my concern also and why I switched it up this time
 
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Just getting a chance to chime in late in the thread

2.7 Tacoma 2 Oil changes ago in the heat of summer I went with the highly praised Mobil 0W40 and a K&N white filter after all to hear on here it's the best all around choice for your money

First start up it had valvetrain noise longer than it ever had in the previous oil changes ......that should have been my first sign
Any morning the ambient temp was below 45 it would get a low oil just for a split second and make some serious noise for about 2 to 3 seconds ran this oil 4k and couldn't wait to get it out

Next was some STP (Amalie) Euro 0w30 with a white K&N only very slightly less clatter on cold soak morning the colder the worse it was ran this exactly 5k

Today Halloween 2022 I did my traditional oil change for the winter and went for the first time in ages with Castrol and went with 0w20 Edge and a Toyota (Philippines) filter ......so far on a 43 degree morning zero clatter and zero low pressure indicator yet

It personally think it comes down ambient start up temp I want to side with thick is better but when it knocks and rattles like that on a cold morning I have to go with audible peace of mind
I have previously owned...

2005 Tacoma: Spec'd for 5W30.

2018 Tacoma: Spec'd for 0W20.

2TR-FE.
Same engine...except Toyota updated it to have VVT at exhaust valves in addition to the intake valves.
 
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It's a combination of local market availability and a lack of CAFE, not some grand conspiracy with GPS tracking that affects ECM programming based on oil grade.

One of the stipulations of US CAFE regulations is that only the oil used for CAFE testing can be recommended for use. Some OEM's skirt this a bit with verbiage like what has been used by GM, who would state that on the race track, to use 15W-50, but to go back to 5W-30 for the street. Toyota has made vague references to a heavier oil being "more suitable" under demanding conditions, but never called out a specific grade.

Prior to CAFE regulation, manuals used to have viscosity charts with a range of acceptable viscosities listed. These are often still present in other parts of the world.

Canada always follows the US, so we have the same setup as you do. Mexico is Mexico, it's hot, 5W-30 is likely far more readily available and there's no CAFE mandate so Mazda can spec something different, based on those factors. It's that simple.

it's always fun to read the recommended viscosities for different vehicles in different parts of the world.
the 5th gen Toyota 4Runner (1GR-FE) engine specs from 0W-20 to 15W-40 here in Puerto Rico. will the 0W-20 hurt the 1GR in the long run? nah, i've seen a few 300,000+ 5th gens and the owners said they've run whatever the dealership puts in them. toyota has nice wearing engines; heck i think you could put ND compressor oil or fill it with WD-40 and the thing would make it to 250,000 miles easy. :ROFLMAO:

just ordered some HPL in 10W-30 ck/4 for the Runner. i guess i'm a 10W-30 enjoyoooorrrr. :cool:
 
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I have previously owned...

2005 Tacoma: Spec'd for 5W30.

2018 Tacoma: Spec'd for 0W20.

2TR-FE.
Same engine...except Toyota updated it to have VVT at exhaust valves in addition to the intake valves.
Thank you for the info

Had this one since brand new never made the noise until it hit 90k and like I posted it will only do this on a cold soak with ambient temp around 45 and colder

So far the Toyota filter may be the fix hard to believe the K&N was that low of quality 2 in a row 😳
 
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Don't let the name fool you ... they aren't as good these days as people think they are.
Yes sir I would say so .......however it did have the silicone ADBV whereas this Toyota or Denso appears to be nitrile and as of this change I am going 4k intervals for a bit
 

ZeeOSix

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Yes sir I would say so .......however it did have the silicone ADBV whereas this Toyota or Denso appears to be nitrile and as of this change I am going 4k intervals for a bit
The Toytota Denso filters have a greenish-black silicone ADBV.
 
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it's always fun to read the recommended viscosities for different vehicles in different parts of the world.
the 5th gen Toyota 4Runner (1GR-FE) engine specs from 0W-20 to 15W-40 here in Puerto Rico. will the 0W-20 hurt the 1GR in the long run? nah, i've seen a few 300,000+ 5th gens and the owners said they've run whatever the dealership puts in them. toyota has nice wearing engines; heck i think you could put ND compressor oil or fill it with WD-40 and the thing would make it to 250,000 miles easy. :ROFLMAO:

just ordered some HPL in 10W-30 ck/4 for the Runner. i guess i'm a 10W-30 enjoyoooorrrr. :cool:
yeah it is amusing isn't it?
 
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Canada, eh?
Or the bottom end isn’t stiff enough and flops around like Gumby on crack playing twister… since it seems that no matter what oil or what machining is done and this is the result, I’d be more inclined to believe it’s poor design rather than an oil or bearing issue.

But then again I haven’t devoted tons of time into researching that engine’s problems…
That's exactly it.
Folks have engine problems with that model of BMW due to the design of the engine, regardless of the oil being run.
 
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yeah it is amusing isn't it?
i'm not very smart but am of the belief if you change out whatever recommended oil in the appropriate OCI (on top of recommended maintenance) then a well built/designed engine can last over 300,000 miles. but like i said i'm not very smart. so i find these daily driver "best protection" arguments are pretty funny to me. 🍿
 

JWB

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I know this topic has been beaten to death, yet it still is without a doubt an interesting one.

Truth is, I don’t know. I’m not sure anyone really does. There just aren’t enough people driving around with 300,000 miles on their engines that used 0W20 since day one, and continued to use it all the way through.

But honestly, how many high performance engines (with turbos) require 0W20? Are there still a lot of manufacturers doing that? Who does that? Ford? Honda?

I personally would think that it depends on the engine, the driver, the maintenance schedule, the climate and the vehicle‘s use. Probably depends on the manufacturer as well. What I would do; is I’d run the 0W20 up until say...75,000 miles. Then I’d bump up the grade to a 5W30...and then just keep it at that weight, checking my oil level consistently, and changing my oil consistently at around 5,000 miles (If it were a turbo, direct injection engine). Just my opinion.
I would disagree. Toyota has been using 0W20 in every vehicle for 10 years. 1,000s of their trucks and cars have hit 300k off 0W20.
 
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-2013 Acura TL, 3.5L high compression engine
-Requires premium fuel
-4.5 quart sump
-Wife drove it hard for the first 100,000 miles
-I drive it now with 110,000 miles
-5,000 OCI’s
-Used Mobil 1, Castrol, Valvoline, all in…0W20 only and after changing my valve cover gaskets the motor looks nearly brand new with little to no visible wear
-This car will run 200,000, 300,000 miles on 0W20, no issues at all.
 
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Canada, eh?
-2013 Acura TL, 3.5L high compression engine
-Requires premium fuel
-4.5 quart sump
-Wife drove it hard for the first 100,000 miles
-I drive it now with 110,000 miles
-5,000 OCI’s
-Used Mobil 1, Castrol, Valvoline, all in…0W20 only and after changing my valve cover gaskets the motor looks nearly brand new with little to no visible wear
-This car will run 200,000, 300,000 miles on 0W20, no issues at all.
(y)

I think this thread is more about small 4cyl engines with DI and/or turbochargers.
Also, some vehicles have considerably smaller sumps (3.5 liters) and are being run on longer OCI's with 0W20 (per manufacture recommendations).
Your example only proves that 0w20 (when changed frequently and in the right application) can be a suitable choice.
Especially in a NA V6 that loafs along at low RPM's
 
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