0w-30 users post here!

[dogememe]

Very excited, I've never used 0w-ANYTHING before. Anyone else use 0w-30, and in what? My only concern is Noack volatility % being higher in 0w-30... But it's already on it's way and will be installed in both vehicles as soon as it shows up, so there's no turning back now!

 

[joekingcorvette]

The zero just means it flows very good when cold and then gradually as the engine warms up the oil will go to 30 if it's hot enough. Most engines manufacturers will approve
a 0 instead of a 5W or 10W (winter). Nothing wrong with it especially in that Silverado with 277 rounds!

 

[HangFire]

I ran Mobil 1 0w30 in my 3.9L Dakota several years back, put it in right before a winter that happened to have more than the usual few days of single digit overnight/morning temps. Never any labored starting.

I posted about it on this board and got a yawn. As I recall, it was called thin for a 30w, and high Noack. But it worked fine.

 

[dogememe]

Originally Posted by joekingcorvette
The zero just means it flows very good when cold and then gradually as the engine warms up the oil will go to 30 if it's hot enough. Most engines manufacturers will approve
a 0 instead of a 5W or 10W (winter). Nothing wrong with it especially in that Silverado with 277 rounds!

Yeah, the reason I picked 0w30 is because I do a lot of cold starts and short trips, but when they are warmed up I drive very aggressively. I floor the Escape far more often that I should lol. And the Chevy sits for several days/weeks at a time...

 

[dogememe]

Originally Posted by HangFire
I ran Mobil 1 0w30 in my 3.9L Dakota several years back, put it in right before a winter that happened to have more than the usual few days of single digit overnight/morning temps. Never any labored starting.



Originally Posted by HangFire
I posted about it on this board and got a yawn. As I recall, it was called thin for a 30w, and high Noack. But it worked fine.


In the Ford, a thin 30w is good because it specs 5w-20. I've had no trouble with 5w30 but I don't really need it to be super thick since it's a newer engine. In the Chevy, I have excellent oil pressure with the Delo 10w30 in there which is a "thick" 30w... after an hour long highway drive the oil pressure gauge doesn't go below 1/4 but on a cold start it goes almost all the way up... so I don't think the thin 30w will be an issue.

 

[OVERKILL]

Originally Posted by dogememe
Very excited, I've never used 0w-ANYTHING before. Anyone else use 0w-30, and in what? My only concern is Noack volatility % being higher in 0w-30... But it's already on it's way and will be installed in both vehicles as soon as it shows up, so there's no turning back now!


The 0w-xx designation means it passes the cold temperature requirements dictated for CCS and MRV at -35C and -40C respectively and the 30 indicates that it falls within the range specified for the xw-30 designation at 100C.

Some of the 0w-30's actually have lower volatility than some of the 5w30's depending on how they are based, as many 0w-xx lubes have PAO as part of their base oil blend.

 

[dogememe]

Originally Posted by OVERKILL
Originally Posted by dogememe
Very excited, I've never used 0w-ANYTHING before. Anyone else use 0w-30, and in what? My only concern is Noack volatility % being higher in 0w-30... But it's already on it's way and will be installed in both vehicles as soon as it shows up, so there's no turning back now!


The 0w-xx designation means it passes the cold temperature requirements dictated for CCS and MRV at -35C and -40C respectively and the 30 indicates that it falls within the range specified for the xw-30 designation at 100C.

Some of the 0w-30's actually have lower volatility than some of the 5w30's depending on how they are based, as many 0w-xx lubes have PAO as part of their base oil blend.


Here is the datasheet, the 0w30 has higher Noack than any other viscosity... but it's probably not an issue: https://www.amsoil.com/lit/databulletins/g2880.pdf

 

[OVERKILL]

Yes, 8.8% is still insanely low though. Even the Mercedes standard for Noack has a cap at 10%, and you are below that. The cap for SN PCMO's is 15%.

Look at this list of 5w30's for comparison:
http://www.pqiadata.org/SAE5W30SamplesTest2016.html

 

[JLTD]

Originally Posted by dogememe
Originally Posted by OVERKILL
Originally Posted by dogememe
Very excited, I've never used 0w-ANYTHING before. Anyone else use 0w-30, and in what? My only concern is Noack volatility % being higher in 0w-30... But it's already on it's way and will be installed in both vehicles as soon as it shows up, so there's no turning back now!


The 0w-xx designation means it passes the cold temperature requirements dictated for CCS and MRV at -35C and -40C respectively and the 30 indicates that it falls within the range specified for the xw-30 designation at 100C.

Some of the 0w-30's actually have lower volatility than some of the 5w30's depending on how they are based, as many 0w-xx lubes have PAO as part of their base oil blend.


Here is the datasheet, the 0w30 has higher Noack than any other viscosity... but it's probably not an issue: https://www.amsoil.com/lit/databulletins/g2880.pdf


Even at 8.8% Noack it's better than some 5w30s. I used the same product for several years when I lived in Northern Montana in both the Jeep 4.0 and 2.4 as well as the Ford Coyote V8....worked well for the cold starts all the way down to -30*F / -34*C.

 

[SteveSRT8]

Your Silverado will love it. We have raised and killed a lot of 5.3's and 6.0's here and 0w30 works great in them, never a problem. No ridiculous cold here, but it is some comfort in our newer fleet vehicles that fire up at 1500 rpm at 28 degrees!

 

[BMWTurboDzl]

BMW branded (Shell GTL) 0w30 with a HTHS of 3.0 (A5/B5)

 

[Uphill_Both_Ways]

I switched to Mobil 1 0w30 from Mobil 1 5w30 last fall. I have a small stash of the 5w30, so I'll switch back to it when the weather warms up.

 

[Virtus_Probi]

I am running M1 0W30 AFE for the first time this winter and I don't really notice anything different compared to the M1 5W30 I usually run...didn't expect to, either.
The one time I started the car at around -10F I used remote start and didn't hear what the cranking was like.
I was surprised that the car seemed to labor a bit when it was around 0F earlier this week, certainly was nowhere near failing to start but I should probably see if my battery is getting weak...

 

[HangFire]

Yeah at 8.8% you have nothing to worry about, I didn't realize it was Amsoil. I guess that's what you get when you pay more for a 'real' synthetic (ducks and runs for cover).

 

[StevieC]

I used 0w30 Signature Series in my Santa Fe. The engines top end was spotless when the camshaft snapped at 300K miles (535,000km).
See it here: Cylinder Head after using SS 0w30

I'm using it now in the Caravan because the engine seems quieter with it versus the 5w20 it calls for.

If you are referring to the Noack on the SS 0w30 it's quite good at 8.8%

 

[cjolson140]

I'm seasonally running mobil1 AFE 0w30 in my Protege5, since I do a lot of short trips and cold starts. So far down to -10, it still starts easily with the original starter and junkyard battery! It has never failed to start in the cold regardless of oil, but with 5w30 Maxlife it cranked slower and made a racket on startup. The power steering really struggles and makes noise in these temperatures as well.

 

[dogememe]

Originally Posted by HangFire
Yeah at 8.8% you have nothing to worry about, I didn't realize it was Amsoil. I guess that's what you get when you pay more for a 'real' synthetic (ducks and runs for cover).


You're gonna get flamed for that comment

but I want nothing but the best for my crappy old cars. So far I've switched both transmissions to AMSOIL and they both shift better and more consistently so I'm switching to their oil too.

 

[StevieC]

Originally Posted by dogememe
Originally Posted by HangFire
Yeah at 8.8% you have nothing to worry about, I didn't realize it was Amsoil. I guess that's what you get when you pay more for a 'real' synthetic (ducks and runs for cover).


You're gonna get flamed for that comment

but I want nothing but the best for my crappy old cars. So far I've switched both transmissions to AMSOIL and they both shift better and more consistently so I'm switching to their oil too.

You will have good results with their oil. Look up the UOA's posted under my Username here. All good from what they can measure.

 

[kschachn]

Originally Posted by dogememe
You're gonna get flamed for that comment

but I want nothing but the best for my crappy old cars. So far I've switched both transmissions to AMSOIL and they both shift better and more consistently so I'm switching to their oil too.

Announcing that is real point of this thread I assume.

 

[dogememe]

Originally Posted by kschachn
Originally Posted by dogememe
You're gonna get flamed for that comment

but I want nothing but the best for my crappy old cars. So far I've switched both transmissions to AMSOIL and they both shift better and more consistently so I'm switching to their oil too.

Announcing that is real point of this thread I assume.

Nope. Just curious what other people are using 0w30 in and if it's good. I don't care whether you use Mobil or AMSOIL or something different...