0w-30/5w-30 in a 2024 crosstrek and subaru timing chains

RAVL said:
Subyrubyroo:

Good to hear. His point was that the space between the piston skirt and the bore on the new motors is tiny and the lower tension piston ring can get pushed out of the way. Same guy recommended 15w40 in the race engine he built for us so there was no “religion” on thick v thin as there is with some folks. When the motor is under warranty I have no idea why folks would diverge. The motors in most newer cars last almost forever with reasonable care, some crappy ones aside. It is the rest of the car that goes. As I said folks will make of it what they will.
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How thick is 0w-16 north of 230 degrees American?
 
RAVL said:
Appreciate the productive and informative response. What I was told is that manufacturers have reduced piston to cylinder clearances for lower emissions. In the old days, they allowed for more piston expansion when the engine got hot. Now aluminum (silicon alloy) pistons do not have that degree of expansion when heated so that “fit” can be a lot tighter. Add low tension rings to reduce internal friction because you don’t need much tension to have a good seal given how precise and consistent (temp wise) the fits are - this is my translation of what was explained. This is all consistent with manufacturers being able to run thinner oils without impacting engine life. It is interesting to me that despite all the complaining we hear by some, myself included, the average age of a car is now like 12 years or similar. That’s the oldest it’s ever been. Cars and engines are lasting longer. Again appreciate the civil exchange. Take care.
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You sure? Their first and foremost priority is satisfying CAFE and gunment standards. They’re not interested in someone like me who wants 400,000 miles out of an engine before being rebuilt
 
kschachn said:
Sometimes though I have to wonder just how large people think oil molecules are. And they imagine much greater viscosity differences between grades, especially when hot. In the scheme of things such as this it’s not that great. It’s significant and important but in terms of “squeezing in” the molecules it is not. Here we have a 30-grade as supposedly okay but a 40-grade is detrimental. There isn’t anything to support such a supposition.
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Totally agree with you.
I dont think some folks realize when talking about different motor oil viscocity , just how close they really are to each other.
Yeah , it could be for sure damaging if someone went from say any oils like a 0w20 /0w30 even 15w40 to an oil as thick as gear lube. But
where are they gonna find a motor oil that thick to damage an engine? Maybe one of those 15w50s or some high visc for classic cars would be thick enough to cause trouble long term. (I still doubt that) I think some would be surprised if they set up and poured and felt and looked at the differences in viscocities. It is not like going from water to molasses.
 
rather interesting thread, and timely, yesterday I just purchased a 2024 (new) Subaru Cross Trek 2.0 boxhead engine , and of course it is to have 0w-16 oil, the owners book said 0w-20 as a temporary substitute ,but use 0w-16 next oil change, I went and talked to the service manager at the dealer, about using 0w-20,he said, do the first 2-3 changes with the 0w-16 then you will be fine with a full synthetic 0w-20 ( which he seemed to prefer and it will not void any warranty claims) with proper oci I ,have been looking at 0w-20 oils with 2.7 hths or more ,vis at 100c 8.6 or so ,ccs at5700 @-35 or lower, are some of the parameters I have been looking at ,Red line, Schaeffer's 9000, Royal Purple and Amsoil ss appear to be some of the better ones,or Pennzoil ultra Platinum 0w-20,,or Mobil 1 EP , Valvoline EP ,to name a few readily available brands .
 
Redhawk454 said:
You sure? Their first and foremost priority is satisfying CAFE and gunment standards. They’re not interested in someone like me who wants 400,000 miles out of an engine before being rebuilt
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Pretty confident based on personal experience and logic. First goal is to get the customer and then retain the customer, otherwise regulatory compliance becomes moot.

400k out of the engine is great/. The rest of the car will need a lot of work to ensure it is roadworthy and not an exercise in faith.

The data on car age belies the argument that newer cars are less reliable and don’t last as long, on average. I believe that the average age is now around 12 years.

I think the quality losses have been in the premium makes but those are not sold in high enough numbers to really impact average age.

Take care.
 
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facility1 said:
rather interesting thread, and timely, yesterday I just purchased a 2024 (new) Subaru Cross Trek 2.0 boxhead engine , and of course it is to have 0w-16 oil, the owners book said 0w-20 as a temporary substitute ,but use 0w-16 next oil change, I went and talked to the service manager at the dealer, about using 0w-20,he said, do the first 2-3 changes with the 0w-16 then you will be fine with a full synthetic 0w-20 ( which he seemed to prefer and it will not void any warranty claims) with proper oci I ,have been looking at 0w-20 oils with 2.7 hths or more ,vis at 100c 8.6 or so ,ccs at5700 @-35 or lower, are some of the parameters I have been looking at ,Red line, Schaeffer's 9000, Royal Purple and Amsoil ss appear to be some of the better ones,or Pennzoil ultra Platinum 0w-20,,or Mobil 1 EP , Valvoline EP ,to name a few readily available brands .
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If price isn't an issue, I'd do RedLine 0w20 since it has the API SP certificate for warranty purposes and it meets those numbers you wanted.
 
the price maybe a issue, will be 5k and, or 6 mo. oci ,and like store availability, I can get the other brands locally though, wall mart, farm and barn etc.
 
SammyChevelleTypeS3 said:
it could be for sure damaging if someone went from say any oils like a 0w20 /0w30 even 15w40 to an oil as thick as gear lube.
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You do realize that 75w gear oil is thinner than 20 grade motor oil, right?

IMG_5140.webp
 
kschachn said:
You mean the Professional Series? There is zero reason to purchase that. It is a rebranded Group III oil, similar to a multitude of others on the Walmart shelf.
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Not sure. But this one seems to meet everything op wanted. Not sure what it's rebranded from
Screenshot_20240926_081410_Chrome.webp
 
SubieRubyRoo said:
If you’re certain the oil will never be the cause of an engine (part) failure, who needs an API certification anyways for warranty purposes? 😉
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I tend to agree but when dealers deny warranty for going 85mph, I don't put anything past them
 
kschachn said:
Philips 66, or at least it was. The parent company of Red Line. It's not anything special unlike their High-Performance line.

The one in your image is not the one with an API license.
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Maybe I assumed too much when I saw this
Screenshot_20240926_083746_Chrome.webp
 
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