02 Toyota Camry V6 MAJOR ISSUES. Please chime in.

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My friend bought this about a month ago with 88k miles. XLE V6 with navigation and all the options.

After buying it, he detailed it on the inside and outside, while the car was not running with the radio on. This naturally drained the old battery on it. He doesn't drive the car yet, nor did he register it yet, so he jumped it and let it run for about 20 mins. to recharge the battery. A few weeks passes and all is good. He started the car every week and all was good. Last weekend he bought the engine de-greaser spray and sprayed it on the side of the engine to get some of the oil residue off of it due to a valve cover gasket leak that looks like lets some oil out and sweats the front side of the engine a bit. He said he sprayed only the part with oil residue carefully and then gently wiped it to get the oil off.

This was done with the engine off.

Today he attempted to start the car up to check up on the battery and it was dead. He jumped it with another vehicle, let it run a bit, and opened up the hood and saw smoke coming off of the engine where some of the oil residue leaked down when he was cleaning it. He let it run and the residue burned off and the smoke stopped.

He drove the car half a mile to the store, shut it off and went inside. When he came back out, the engine wouldn't start. He jumped the car again but every time it would start, it would shut off as the rpm dropped. In order for him to maintain the engine idling, he needed to keep his foot on the gas pedal. Since he lives half a mile, he kept the rpm's at 2k rpm, and barely made it to his driveway, where the car stalled again and wouldn't start.

He bought another battery, put it in and now the car starts and idles. However, all the dash lights are off, the rpm arrow is stuck at 6k for some reason, even though he never revved it that high, the speedometer is stuck at 100mph, radio, lights, climate control, windows, sunroof, nothing works. The only thing that works is the horn and the hazard lights. When he applies throttle, there is no response and after a while it shuts off again. In addition, you can't shift from out of park. The only way to do this is by by-passing the shift lock interlock mechanism with the button on the bottom console which you can press with a screw driver. Even when you put the car into drive or reverse, it does not move or respond to throttle and eventually the engine die's.

The AM1 fuse which is the starter fuse blows every time. When you start the car and engage the starter, sometimes the lights on the dashboard light up for a second and you can operate the windows and everything else that's not working but quickly the lights die off and everything again becomes inoperable. The AM1 fuse keeps blowing (5amps fuse according to manual). The alarm also goes off randomly and now the battery has to be disconnected at night just in case.

When he bought the car, the ignition switch was and still is finicky. When you take the key out and leave the door open at times, the chime stays on as if the key is still in the ignition. In order for the chime to go off, you need to re-insert the key into the ignition and turn it again.

I don't know if the spray played any role in this happening by maybe getting into one of the sensors under the hood or this is just a coincidence, but something is messed up. Everywhere I read, it says there is a short somewhere, one mechanic said the ecu may be fried and another source said possible bad ignition switch.

What is your take on this? He doesn't want to pay a tow truck to tow the car to a competent shop that charges $97/hr. labor for a diagnostic fee that may take more than 1 hr. (He is struggling financially right now).

Can a bad ignition switch do all this? Why was the car moving before with the rpm's held at 2k rpm and not stalling but has no response in throttle input at this point with the engine running and why is everything electrical not working including the windows?

The keyless entry does not work at this time also. The doors need to be locked and unlocked manually by hand or with the key.

Thanks for reading the long and grammatically incorrect post. It's very late, I woke up early today and helped him figure out the problem after work for several hours. I am now tired and am writing on the level as a 5th grader.

Thanks again for your help!
 
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This sounds a lot like a voltage regulator issue. I'd probably start by pulling the alternator out and having it tested.
 
I'd use a multimeter across the battery leads to check the voltage of the battery with the car off (should be over 12V). Then the voltage the alternator voltage with the car on (should be over 14V).
 
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Originally Posted By: JOD
This sounds a lot like a voltage regulator issue. I'd probably start by pulling the alternator out and having it tested.


Any AZ can test it on the car.
 
Just a wild guess here, but did he get the polarity backwards while jumping it? If not, is there a good connection between the engine and negative battery terminal?
 
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Man where to start ....... it could be a short bad ecu anything. Try unhooking the computer fuse and unhooking battery let it reset and see if anything changes. Check the fuse box make sure know one had anything aftermarket hooked up.
 
Yonyon,
He said his neighbor helped him when he got it back to the driveway and accidentally put the positive cable on the negative and the negative on the positive while the car he was jumping from was running. The Camry's horn honked and he quickly disconnected the wires off the Camry after realizing what happened.

Please keep in mind this was after the car would shut off and after he barely got it back to the driveway.

Wouldn't a fuse keep the car from damaging itself from this?
 
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Yes, the fuses are fine...the relay's (the bigger fuse looking box's I know nothing about)
 
Originally Posted By: chevyboy14
Man where to start ....... it could be a short bad ecu anything. Try unhooking the computer fuse and unhooking battery let it reset and see if anything changes. Check the fuse box make sure know one had anything aftermarket hooked up.


The car has a aftermarket alarm but the previous owner said it's unhooked because it's giving him problem's. When looking at the fuse box inside the car, there looks like a kill switch is wired in with a button attached to it.
 
Maybe needs new alternator? Would a alternator go bad from the de-greaser getting inside? Would it cause the above symptoms such as the windows not working or no response to throttle when engine is idling?
 
I'd personally unhook all the alarm aftemarket stuff. Check all connections you can and alternator. Could be a bunch of things
Sounds like the wasn't cared for by the previous owner though.
 
You have two separate issues here, I think.

First issue is the inability to maintain an idle without keeping the foot on the throttle. So, perhaps you have an IAC issue here?

Have you scanned the system for any codes?

Second issue you have is the whacky electrical problem. They are probably not related.
 
Originally Posted By: Spartuss
Yonyon,
He said his neighbor helped him when he got it back to the driveway and accidentally put the positive cable on the negative and the negative on the positive while the car he was jumping from was running. The Camry's horn honked and he quickly disconnected the wires off the Camry after realizing what happened.

Please keep in mind this was after the car would shut off and after he barely got it back to the driveway.

Wouldn't a fuse keep the car from damaging itself from this?


Ooo Faa! I missed that part.

I've never seen anyone do that to a Toyota, but I've come across a few cars that have been jumped backwards before and while some come out none the worse for it, others end up needing thousands of dollars just in parts to fix.

When the polarity is reversed you can burn things up faster than a fuse can blow. Anything with one or more diodes in it (PCM, alternator, radio, power window switch, etc.) could be toast. It's not at all uncommon to burn wires as well, but generally not unless it's hooked up that way for several seconds. Unfortunately, something that fried during a breif touch of the jumper cable can end up shorted out and cook up some wiring later when power is hooked up in the right direction. Sometimes this means a whole pile of new problems that make it that much more difficult to figure out what's going on.

Scary stuff this is. I'm going to go hide under a blanket with my dog now.
 
With a bad battery for that long I can imagine the starter has been slow cranked frequently which kills starters. Crossing up the polarity has a high probability of messing with electronics.
 
It is really hard to say for sure, but the reversed jump start could have caused SEVERE problems.

Check the alternator first. A bad alternator can cause some very strange problems since the voltage will be off and electronic components don't handle that situation very well.

Also, the ignition switch needs to be replaced. It is already known to be faulty and leaving a bad one in is just going to make diagnosing this issue even harder than it already is.

If the battery and alternator are good, check all of the electrical connections - especially grounds. The PCM and BCM could both be damaged which would explain the lighting issues (BCM) and lack of throttle response (PCM). Are there any codes? Can an ODB II scanner even communicate with the PCM in the first place?

I believe the 2003 Camry does have electronic throttle control, so if that system has developed a fault (possibly due to a fried PCM or bad sensor) there might be a force idle or force limited power condition... in some rare cases it might not run at all depending on the nature of the fault. However, there should be codes present for any electronic throttle control issues.

Cleaning the engine is probably not responsible for these issues. I don't know where the PCM is on a 2003 Camry, but getting that wet could cause problems. Various sensors could also develop problems if their electrical connections got wet. Not really sure about the alternator... should be fine after drying out though. Regardless of this possibility, I think there is a much greater chance that the reverse polarity caused at least some of these issues.
 
The electronics issues remind me of what Ive seen when batteries have shorted cells in them. Jumpy needles that sit at the wrong place and all...

So Id very carefully check the battery and alternator first. 20 min will not properly recharge a battery, and does more damage than good, so the battery is likely gone.

From there, go after the other issues. Nothing wrong with a nice looking engine, but on a 10 yo used car, function is more important than shine. Have him stay off of it until the mechanical/electrical issues are worked out. I doubt that cleaning did anything, but it is easy to inadvertently disconnect or loosen a breather hose or other part, which can create an issue...

My MIL's 02 camry V6 smokes a bit, and has some seepage. No big deal. Her AT just failed though, at 95k, but its used in the Caribbean on far more hilly, rough roads than most will ever see here.
 
Originally Posted By: jim302

I believe the 2003 Camry does have electronic throttle control


I meant to say 2002. I think it was the first year that electronic throttle control was used in the Camry.
 
02 Camry V6 is not a junker car. To put it in perspective, he paid close to $10,000 for that car. He needs to bite the bullet and get it towed to a competent shop. If it was a $999 special, I could understand the reluctance but given what your neighbor has done so far to the car, it needs professional *now*.

Unless you want to hone your own diagnostic skills on this vehicle, you should seriously walk away from it.

If I were asked and begged to debug this, I would :-

0) Get the factory service manual

1) Go through each and every fuse and relay and fusible link on this car. It has most likely blew some when reverse jump start was attempted.

2) See if the alternator is shorted

3) Check if there are any code stored

- Vikas
 
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major electrical gremlins within. It's gonna take some serious tracking/tracing and testing all along with the aid of factory service manual.

Sorry, it's not something that can be casually cured by bringing it up on the internet bulletin board.

Q.
 
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