02 Toyota Camry V6 MAJOR ISSUES. Please chime in.

[jim302]

Originally Posted By: Spartuss

The car starts, but once the rpm's drop and the throttle is not held, the engine stall's. I'm reading online that there is a re-learning procedure that needs to happen and I need to maintain engine speed and feather the throttle for 15-20 mins. for the re-learn process to take place after the battery is disconnected. This seems odd and strange to me.



In this case I would clean the IACV and throttle body, then do the re-learn procedure if this doesn't fix the problem.

Glad to hear nothing expensive was fried.

 

[VK56VD]

How long should I wait after cleaning for everything to dry up before starting the car or can I start it right away with no harm and/or damage?

Will a clogged IACV throw a code and trigger the CEL?

 

[ltslimjim]

^Let me re-ask some basics:

It may or should, but sometimes becomes fault to a point without a code. I know of a few Honda guys that replace an IACV without a real code, slap on a new part and the 'symptoms' are fixed.

This sypmtom sounds somewhat like a ignition related problem, a part that when hot causes a 'no start'?

If it's idle related, someone could post or you could refer to a Factory Service Manual.

DO THIS:

Start the car and let it stall.

Before restarting, disconnect the wire that feeds the IACV.

Re-start and hold RPMs at 1,000 'gently relaxing until it tries to idle on it's own'. Success?

If not, maybe look towards your ECTS.

PS: Depending on the 'cleaner' used, try letting things dry for at least an hour or two, if cold especially longer. Electrical cleaner is nice because they tend to dry fast. Sometimes cleaning and IACV will help symptoms, other times it can simply need replacing. NOT saying its the IACV yet, just trying to deduce with some basic testing and no time to look up this for you currently.

HTH...

 

[VK56VD]

Originally Posted By: ltslimjim
^Let me re-ask some basics:

It may or should, but sometimes becomes fault to a point without a code. I know of a few Honda guys that replace an IACV without a real code, slap on a new part and the 'symptoms' are fixed.

This sypmtom sounds somewhat like a ignition related problem, a part that when hot causes a 'no start'?

If it's idle related, someone could post or you could refer to a Factory Service Manual.

DO THIS:

Start the car and let it stall.

Before restarting, disconnect the wire that feeds the IACV.

Re-start and hold RPMs at 1,000 'gently relaxing until it tries to idle on it's own'. Success?

If not, maybe look towards your ECTS.

PS: Depending on the 'cleaner' used, try letting things dry for at least an hour or two, if cold especially longer. Electrical cleaner is nice because they tend to dry fast. Sometimes cleaning and IACV will help symptoms, other times it can simply need replacing. NOT saying its the IACV yet, just trying to deduce with some basic testing and no time to look up this for you currently.

HTH...


Very good info! Thank you!

 

[ltslimjim]

^Wow, my posts coherency goes down when I try to post in a hurry. Glad it still helped some.

The Factory Service Manual may help with any idle issues, usually the manuals have a check list based on symptoms. They generally have electrical books, too. Great for tracking down other issues.

I like watching EricTheCarGuy's videos on youtube. He has videos covering many many issues related to what you are experiencing, in an operational way that is, and is more down to earth than outright sounding like reading from a book.

When the vehicles runs before stalling, does it seem to idle just fine? Is the restart after stalling a 'harsh' restart? That could point to ECTS, if IACV checks out.

A Factory Service Manual, can't stress that enough:

 

[Vikas]

I am little surprised at the "low damage" done to your neighbor's wallet. Assuming the shop did what it claims to have done, $250 is peanuts. What does bother me though is that they did not bother to fix the idle problem. I am assuming the neighbor got the car back because you are back in the picture.

A really good shop would have fixed the car completely before releasing it.

Be careful with the throttle body if the car has drive by wire throttle. Never move the throttle plate by hand. Use the gas pedal after turning on the ignition to move the throttle plate. And yes, use throttle body cleaner rather than carburetor cleaner.

- Vikas

 

[stephen9666]

Originally Posted By: Vikas

A really good shop would have fixed the car completely before releasing it.


I'm confused about this, too.

They charged $250, which may very well have been a fair price. But the car is still not working properly. Why didn't they fix the other issues as well?

 

[Vikas]

No offense to the OP, but there comes a time when one needs to back away and not get involved any more in somebody's problem. This seems like a prime candidate for that advise.

 

[jim302]

Originally Posted By: stephen9666
Originally Posted By: Vikas

A really good shop would have fixed the car completely before releasing it.


I'm confused about this, too.

They charged $250, which may very well have been a fair price. But the car is still not working properly. Why didn't they fix the other issues as well?


According to the OP, the shop only does automotive electrical work. The stalling/idle issue is most likely mechanical.

 

[ltslimjim]

^That's sort of what I was thinking as well. They may not have identified a failing unit if it winds up being ignition component related, but fixed what was broken at least.

Not sure if they were app specific capable or understood the further issue. They may have got it started, found no issues and only until the OP's neighbor drove it home did it stall, etc.

 

[VK56VD]

The $240 at the electrical shop covered them fixing the fried electrical distributor box under the hood.

The car would start after this was done but after warming up, the idles would slowly drop and the car would eventually stall.

I took the car to a mechanical shop across the street. They connected the car to a scan tool and it showed no codes. They then started to take out the air box and the hoses to get to the throttle body. While disconnecting the hose, they saw it had a tear in it and was previously glued together. The car had a vacuum leak and thus the problem of stalling would happen. They also did the throttle body induction service as the butterfly was all gunked up.

The car is working fine so far but they did advise that if the problem persists, to replace the throttle body plate. They charged $130.

So in total, it was $70 tow, $240 for the electrical shop and $130 for the mechanical shop.

Will keep fingers crossed and hope this solves the problem.

Thanks again for all of the input guys!

 

[ltslimjim]

Yes, please give an update on this.

It wouldn't surprise me if the vacuum leak & really sticky throttle plate caused the stalling issue.

This is probably the best case scenario. So, lesson to check for the simple stuff first is good here.

I serviced a lady's 2000 Infiniti QX4 a few months ago and the throttle plate was COVERED in THICK TAR LIKE SUBSTANCE. ...sorry, had to get that out. lol!

Anyway, she doesn't have to punch it from a stop anymore and her MPG improved from 14 to 16.5; for her about as high as ever she can remember. If your intake gums up to that extent, check out the PCV valve, it could be all cruddy and passive too much oil into the IM.

 

[wiswind]

I have a 2003 Sienna that has the same engine.
I recommend a subscription to AlldataDIY, which is an online version of the factory service manual.
It includes updated Recall and Technical Service Buletins (TSBs).

Because the Sienna was built on a revised Camry platform, these pictures will be of some help in many DIY projects.
They are pictures that I took of various projects I have done with my Sienna.
Spark Plugs, Brakes, valve cover gaskets......etc.
Of course, they are NOT a replacement for a good repair manual....but should be a nice addition to it.
There is not a repair manual printed that has enough pictures to suit me.

http://rides.webshots.com/album/576572371kcnZsT?navtype=search

It IS super critical to stay on top of the PCV valve with this engine.
It is located in the REAR valve cover.
I do NOT know what year for the Camry they went from the press in type to the metal screw in type, but the location is the same.
A clogged PCV valve WILL result in a sludged up engine......and they are CHEAP.
I recommend a Genuine TOYOTA PCV valve to maintain the correct flow over the various vaccum levels.

You could also have your friend register his vehicle on the Toyota website......it is FREE and will give him access to the full repair history for any repairs done at any Toyota dealership.
Also, it will inform him of any open recalls for the vehicle.

Another note......the change interval for the timing belt is 90K miles.
It is not a easy job.....many have done it on their own....but I had mine done at a TOYOTA dealership.....cost about $500 for the water pump and timing belt job.

 

[ltslimjim]

^Not a bad price for a dealership done timing belt service including water pump.

Good points overall. I definitely agree with the core points here.

 

[VK56VD]

Wiswind, I agree with you about the PCV Valve. Keeping those clean should help maintain a healthier engine in this car with it being so prone to sludge.

 

[brelandt]

If the old battery was really bad than on these Toyotas you need to relearn the idle when installing a new battery. Changed hundreds of these at work and the Toyotas will run rough and stall afterwards.
Start the engine and turn off all loads. Hold the RPM at 2000. Stay there for 5 minutes. Then let off the gas. The idle will drop very low but then pick up to normal range. Leave it there again for around 5 minutes. Then drive it around. Ought to be fine.
I have good luck with this.

 

[ltslimjim]

Bump for Spartuss to update now 3 months later. Please.

 

[HerrStig]

Let's say yu have a "dead" battery which is down to 11 volts (or less). Cross polarize it with a 13 volt source, (charged battery) and you have a 4 volt reverse differential. That can do some damage to anything which is not reverse protected. The motor in a Toyota type IAC only runs one way, for example, the valve is a disc with a slot which varies in width and can turn 360 degrees. Lotta potential mischief there. Just be careful with those cables.