Seeking advice from a tile installer as I've never installed tile before.
I'm building a tile-topped BBQ cart using 6x6 tile in a 7x4 grid. The tile is actually 6x6 as I cut it that way from several 7x21 pieces, not realizing at the time 6x6 tile might be spec'd like a 2x4: Neither is actually their advertised dimension. Given the above, my tile spacing joints are about 6 playing cards wide or 3/32" as there isn't enough room for a full 1/8" gap over 8 gaps (1").
I laid out 90° center lines from each side. The horiz. CL runs right through the middle horiz. tile joint, but the vertical CL needed to be offset half a tile width. I laid out a horiz. & vertical cross with dry tile to check the spacing. So far so good.
The tile substrate is 3/4" BC ply with a rabbet forming a tongue all around the circumference which fits into a grooved 1-1/2 x 3-1/2 cedar stile/rail frame. Once all the T&G joints are glued up and set, it'll be quite strong. The ply is screwed down into the 2x framing forming the cabinet with 2-1/2" screws.
I'm tempted to use 100% silicone to glue down the tiles rather than thinset and also use silicone rather than grout. This cabinet will be stored & used on a large covered concrete-slab back porch, so it won't ever be rained on. The humidity though will vary wildly as will the temp.
The bottom ply surface will be covered in two coats of white stain. I'm not worried about the ply expanding/contracting per se, but it will be a tiled table top, stored outdoors and the cart will be moved around (it's on wheels) by pushing/pulling on the top.
Silicone rather than grout seems to solve several problems in this application as it's water & weather proof, easy to clean, won't grow mold, won't chip/crack over time, easy to apply and won't mar the finished wood. Plus it's already sealed. I intend to set the tile high enough so that when half-sheet pans are set or slid across it, they'll sit on the tile rather than the wood trim.
What say you tile-setters?
I'm building a tile-topped BBQ cart using 6x6 tile in a 7x4 grid. The tile is actually 6x6 as I cut it that way from several 7x21 pieces, not realizing at the time 6x6 tile might be spec'd like a 2x4: Neither is actually their advertised dimension. Given the above, my tile spacing joints are about 6 playing cards wide or 3/32" as there isn't enough room for a full 1/8" gap over 8 gaps (1").
I laid out 90° center lines from each side. The horiz. CL runs right through the middle horiz. tile joint, but the vertical CL needed to be offset half a tile width. I laid out a horiz. & vertical cross with dry tile to check the spacing. So far so good.
The tile substrate is 3/4" BC ply with a rabbet forming a tongue all around the circumference which fits into a grooved 1-1/2 x 3-1/2 cedar stile/rail frame. Once all the T&G joints are glued up and set, it'll be quite strong. The ply is screwed down into the 2x framing forming the cabinet with 2-1/2" screws.
I'm tempted to use 100% silicone to glue down the tiles rather than thinset and also use silicone rather than grout. This cabinet will be stored & used on a large covered concrete-slab back porch, so it won't ever be rained on. The humidity though will vary wildly as will the temp.
The bottom ply surface will be covered in two coats of white stain. I'm not worried about the ply expanding/contracting per se, but it will be a tiled table top, stored outdoors and the cart will be moved around (it's on wheels) by pushing/pulling on the top.
Silicone rather than grout seems to solve several problems in this application as it's water & weather proof, easy to clean, won't grow mold, won't chip/crack over time, easy to apply and won't mar the finished wood. Plus it's already sealed. I intend to set the tile high enough so that when half-sheet pans are set or slid across it, they'll sit on the tile rather than the wood trim.
What say you tile-setters?
