Valve Cover Gasket and Tranny Fluid Question

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Hi guys, hope all is well!

1. When changing the spark plugs on my car (in sig) I noticed oil on the coils. On this car it suggests that the valve cover gasket is failing. I found a popular one made by fel-pro on rockauto (FEL-PRO VS50530R {#1121328021} PermaDry®). Are these good quality gaskets? I don't want to change this and have a leak a few months later.

2. When taking the valve cover off, what can I clean it with? Do I have to clean it? I will be working outside, and I don't want any debris going in the engine. I also want to get it done in a reasonable amount of time since I don't have much with work and school. I will do my best to take the pieces of the old gasket off and clean the mating surface.

3. My transmission fluid is looking orange-ish. I don't if its ever been changed or not, but it isn't black. When I use cruise control and speed up using the cruise control lever, the car kind of jerks forward while accelerating. I don't know if this is called slipping which is a term usually used with failing transmissions. The jerking never really happens when I use the regular accelerator. It doesn't happen with spirited driving either. Should I change the fluid, based on this info? Should I do a full flush or just drop the pan, change the filter, clean the magnet and fill with new fluid equaling the amount the left? I don't want to end up doing all this work and end up having the tranny fail cuz it was used to the old fluid and was going to die eventually (but this is all speculation).

4. I know that there is a delay in fuel delivery because when I press the accelerator, it takes a second sometimes to actually take effect. Other times everything is smooth. This may be where the jerking effect is coming from when I use the cruise control. I know the fuel pump/filter will have to be changed eventually. It's just a lot more hassle than I have the time for.

The car drives fine and doesn't bother me too much. But since it's all I got, I wanna make sure it stays in good shape for as long I have it.

Thanks in advance
 
4. Sounds normal, it's just the cruise accelerating the speed of the car.

3. With that many miles I'd do some drain and fills spaced out at least 500 miles. Use Mobil 3309 atf since that would be the recommended fluid and the same thing as T4. On the 3rd drain and fill you can drop the pan and replace the filter. For the atf filter I'd use a Wix or a Denso.

Also consider replacing the pcv valve with an oem version.
 
Originally Posted By: THafeez
Hi guys, hope all is well!

1. When changing the spark plugs on my car (in sig) I noticed oil on the coils. On this car it suggests that the valve cover gasket is failing. I found a popular one made by fel-pro on rockauto (FEL-PRO VS50530R {#1121328021} PermaDry®). Are these good quality gaskets? I don't want to change this and have a leak a few months later.

2. When taking the valve cover off, what can I clean it with? Do I have to clean it? I will be working outside, and I don't want any debris going in the engine. I also want to get it done in a reasonable amount of time since I don't have much with work and school. I will do my best to take the pieces of the old gasket off and clean the mating surface.

3. My transmission fluid is looking orange-ish. I don't if its ever been changed or not, but it isn't black. When I use cruise control and speed up using the cruise control lever, the car kind of jerks forward while accelerating. I don't know if this is called slipping which is a term usually used with failing transmissions. The jerking never really happens when I use the regular accelerator. It doesn't happen with spirited driving either. Should I change the fluid, based on this info? Should I do a full flush or just drop the pan, change the filter, clean the magnet and fill with new fluid equaling the amount the left? I don't want to end up doing all this work and end up having the tranny fail cuz it was used to the old fluid and was going to die eventually (but this is all speculation).

4. I know that there is a delay in fuel delivery because when I press the accelerator, it takes a second sometimes to actually take effect. Other times everything is smooth. This may be where the jerking effect is coming from when I use the cruise control. I know the fuel pump/filter will have to be changed eventually. It's just a lot more hassle than I have the time for.

The car drives fine and doesn't bother me too much. But since it's all I got, I wanna make sure it stays in good shape for as long I have it.

Thanks in advance



1. Yes fel-pro will do fine.

2. Blow off the valve cover with compressed air if you can. Clean the mating surfaces with brake cleaner.

3. Sounds like you have bad motor mounts. The 2.4 is notorious for this. Probably the front and torque strut.

4. See #3. The bad mounts cause a delayed response. However the throttle by wire system also has some lag.
 
Originally Posted By: SatinSilver
4. Sounds normal, it's just the cruise accelerating the speed of the car.

3. With that many miles I'd do some drain and fills spaced out at least 500 miles. Use Mobil 3309 atf since that would be the recommended fluid and the same thing as T4. On the 3rd drain and fill you can drop the pan and replace the filter. For the atf filter I'd use a Wix or a Denso.

Also consider replacing the pcv valve with an oem version.


No point opening the pan. The filter is a screen not an actual filter. Drain and fills are all you need. Trans takes 3.8 qts with drain and fill.
 
1. Felpro makes very good gaskets. The one you chose should work great.Make sure you torque it properly.
2. I would use brake cleaner to clean the valve cover with a brush.You can use a scraper to "carefully" clean the gasket surfaces. I wouldn;t be concerned about cleaning out any accrued varnish etc. off the head.
3. A couple pan drops with one filter change should build up the additives suffiently. You might want to consider replacing the oil pan with one having a drain plug.
4. The throttle body might need a cleaning. Its possible that a slight bind may be causing the cruise to be erratic.
 
Originally Posted By: Lubener
1. Felpro makes very good gaskets. The one you chose should work great.Make sure you torque it properly.
2. I would use brake cleaner to clean the valve cover with a brush.You can use a scraper to "carefully" clean the gasket surfaces. I wouldn;t be concerned about cleaning out any accrued varnish etc. off the head.
3. A couple pan drops with one filter change should build up the additives suffiently. You might want to consider replacing the oil pan with one having a drain plug.
4. The throttle body might need a cleaning. Its possible that a slight bind may be causing the cruise to be erratic.



This vehicle has a drain plug. This vehicle has a filter strainer that does not need to be replaced. Drain and fills are fine.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Thank you for the advice everyone. PCV has been changed. OEM. Throttle body was cleaned a few months back. Kingcake is probably right about the motor mounts being worn. I'll do the drain and fill and see how it goes. Since I don't have compressed air, I'll use brake cleaner and a brush carefully.

Do I need to hose it down and get all of the brake cleaner off or can I just wipe it down with some microfiber towels/rags?
 
Brake cleaner will evaporate very fast.

Check Youtube, I am sure somebody have some video on how to do it.
That engine is very popular and it is similar enough from generation to generation.
 
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Originally Posted By: JMJNet
Brake cleaner will evaporate very fast.

Check Youtube, I am sure somebody have some video on how to do it.
That engine is very popular and it is similar enough from generation to generation.


Yep any how to video for a camry, rav 4, or scion tc will work. All use the 2AZ-FE 2.4 vvti engine. I can also email you the factor instructions if you'd like.
 
there's also no harm in cleaning the Mass Air Flow sensor if it has one. my Toyota echo did; and cleaning it helped drivability.
 
Originally Posted By: tomcat27
there's also no harm in cleaning the Mass Air Flow sensor if it has one. my Toyota echo did; and cleaning it helped drivability.


This is a good tip. The toyota mafs tend to get dirty quick for some reason. It pulls out with 2 screws, then spray it down.
 
1) Use a OE gasket from the dealer and also apply RTV to the grooves on the mating surface.
2) Very little cleaning will be needed. Use brake clean to wipe the surface and a gentle scrape of the old RTV should be all that's needed.
3) Perform a full flush using Toyota T-IV. Drain the pan, and then exchange the remainder of the fluid thru the cooler lines.
4) I haven't worked on a 2.4 of that vintage in a while, but if it isn't a DBW system, make sure the cables are properly installed and clean the throttle body.
 
Originally Posted By: The Critic
1) Use a OE gasket from the dealer and also apply RTV to the grooves on the mating surface.
2) Very little cleaning will be needed. Use brake clean to wipe the surface and a gentle scrape of the old RTV should be all that's needed.
3) Perform a full flush using Toyota T-IV. Drain the pan, and then exchange the remainder of the fluid thru the cooler lines.
4) I haven't worked on a 2.4 of that vintage in a while, but if it isn't a DBW system, make sure the cables are properly installed and clean the throttle body.



It's drive by wire. Never had issue with felpro valve cover gaskets on these motors.
 
Originally Posted By: KingCake
Originally Posted By: tomcat27
there's also no harm in cleaning the Mass Air Flow sensor if it has one. my Toyota echo did; and cleaning it helped drivability.


This is a good tip. The toyota mafs tend to get dirty quick for some reason. It pulls out with 2 screws, then spray it down.


MAF was cleaned at the same time as the tb. With MAF cleaner of course.
 
Originally Posted By: The Critic
1) Use a OE gasket from the dealer and also apply RTV to the grooves on the mating surface.
2) Very little cleaning will be needed. Use brake clean to wipe the surface and a gentle scrape of the old RTV should be all that's needed.
3) Perform a full flush using Toyota T-IV. Drain the pan, and then exchange the remainder of the fluid thru the cooler lines.
4) I haven't worked on a 2.4 of that vintage in a while, but if it isn't a DBW system, make sure the cables are properly installed and clean the throttle body.


Is a full flush a good idea for a car with unknown maintenance history and high(ish) miles?
 
Originally Posted By: THafeez
Originally Posted By: The Critic
1) Use a OE gasket from the dealer and also apply RTV to the grooves on the mating surface.
2) Very little cleaning will be needed. Use brake clean to wipe the surface and a gentle scrape of the old RTV should be all that's needed.
3) Perform a full flush using Toyota T-IV. Drain the pan, and then exchange the remainder of the fluid thru the cooler lines.
4) I haven't worked on a 2.4 of that vintage in a while, but if it isn't a DBW system, make sure the cables are properly installed and clean the throttle body.


Is a full flush a good idea for a car with unknown maintenance history and high(ish) miles?


Yes, I would have no problem doing a full flush. In my experience you may have to re-flush the transmission after a few thousand miles since the new fluid will turn dark somewhat quickly from the varnish/deposits that it cleans out.
 
Sounds like your "windbagging". I don't know why it takes you all those reponses to get your point across? Maybe your looking things up in a manual as you go because you kow nothing.

I consider a screen as a filter.I see benefits cleaning the screen and the pan's interior. I would cringe at the idea of you working on my car.
 
Last edited:
Originally Posted By: THafeez
Originally Posted By: The Critic
1) Use a OE gasket from the dealer and also apply RTV to the grooves on the mating surface.
2) Very little cleaning will be needed. Use brake clean to wipe the surface and a gentle scrape of the old RTV should be all that's needed.
3) Perform a full flush using Toyota T-IV. Drain the pan, and then exchange the remainder of the fluid thru the cooler lines.
4) I haven't worked on a 2.4 of that vintage in a while, but if it isn't a DBW system, make sure the cables are properly installed and clean the throttle body.


Is a full flush a good idea for a car with unknown maintenance history and high(ish) miles?



Absolutely. If you flush the transmission and it fails tomorrow, it was going to fail tomorrow anyway. It's an old wives tale from someone who had a failed transmission and tried to flush it and it completely gave up the ghost. Plus, toyota automatics tend to be extremely reliable; I would think at 157K your acceleration issue is something not transmission related. Flush it, change the filter and you'll probably get 300K out of the transmission
 
I have used felpro and never had problems. As stated above, etc on the seems, just a little will do. I would use use some degreaser on the underside of the valve cover since u already have it off. Tranny drain and fills is plenty good. A tranny flush is fine too. Your choice. I would def clean the TB and MAF again. Your Toyota should last a lifetime
 
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