Oil Rec. for New 2016 Suburban Purchase 5.3 L83

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zfasts03

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Just purchased a new Suburban LS 4WD. 5.3 L83. Direct Injection with Active Fuel Management. I don't think it is flex fuel. 3.08 gears. All is good we love the vehicle. Averaged 23.5 miles/gal first drive home highway miles, I am impressed. I think mileage will also improve as it breaks in.

As per owners manual:

8 quarts of 0w-20 Dexos 1 oil

I will probably just follow the OLM with a M1-212 filter and 8 qts. of Mobil 1 0w-20 AFE.

I think I will forgo the early oil change. I checked the oil today, looks a little over and the dipstick definitely had black grey coating that wiped off when I wiped the stick. Probably moly from assembly lube.

Does anyone see a better course of action? Amsoil, Shaeffers???? 5w-30 or 0w-30??? I think this engine was developed with 0w-20 in mind from the get go. I believe it is best to sticking to one oil for the life of vehicle.

Vehicle will see all kinds of driving conditions. Tons of short trips (some less than a 1-2 miles) and many long trips. About 12,000 miles a year. I keep my cars very long. (20 + years if possible.) I figure the OLM will guide me as I have trust in what GM developed.
 
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Nothing wrong with M1 AFE, but any dexos will work fine for the OLM's suggestions.

I usually use the cheapest synthetic on sale in OLM-equipped cars. Napa Synthetic is a great deal when it's on sale. It is rebranded Synpower and dexos licensed.
 
Originally Posted By: CT8
M1 works well !

+1

Ran mobil1 AFE 0W20 in my DI malibu last oil change and it did well. Any dexos oil will to well. Im running a mix of PPPP 0w20 and some napa syn 0W20 this oil changes. I got a case of napa syn 0w20 and 5w20 stocked up for my malibu.
 
0w20 in a LS engine moving weight around just doesn't sound ideal to me. But if I were to run one, M1 AFE would be my choice.

Maybe instead of an early oil change, throw a Fram XG on there to get some superior particle capture.
 
Ive always liked Pennzoil in GM engines. Personal opinion, sure, but its also what I run...

Nothing wrong with M1, or PU in 0w-20 in that vehicle. I dont think you can go wrong. If you know its going to get a lot of heavy use in hot conditions, you should watch consumption and consider going with a 5w-20 or even a 5/10w-30 for the time that it is getting high use. But I more or less doubt with that sump size that youll see any issues... its just a standard caveat...

Good luck with it!!
 
Originally Posted By: Gasbuggy
0w20 in a LS engine moving weight around just doesn't sound ideal to me. But if I were to run one, M1 AFE would be my choice.

Maybe instead of an early oil change, throw a Fram XG on there to get some superior particle capture.

If I owned a vehicle with an OLM on it I would either cover the OLM with tape and/or disconnect it. I would change the oil when I wanted to change the oil, not when my engine or computer told me to. Call me old fashioned, I don't care. If you want to pay the car note then you can tell me how to change the oil. If I'm paying the note, well, that makes it mine and I can do with it as I please.
Now, under warranty, that's a different story. But, they would still be happy with me by knowing the oil AND filter would be changed more often then what is called for.
Let the fireworks begin! I'm ready!
28.gif
 
Thanks for purchasing that truck - I'm a part of the team that proudly made it here in Texas.

A great choice for you is Mobil 1 0W/20 (Reg or EP). I'm not a fan of the AFE but use what you prefer because as long as it meets 0W/20 and specs in your owner's manual (Dexos) you are okay with many brands of oil.
 
I had that engine in a 15 Silverado. No issues with m1 afe and I towed some absolute max loads with it. Motor was an absolute beast ...especially on e85. Liked the truck but had to get rid of it as the frame got messed up plowing snow. First and last time i tried that with a 1/2 ton!
 
Originally Posted By: BlueOvalFitter
Originally Posted By: Gasbuggy
0w20 in a LS engine moving weight around just doesn't sound ideal to me. But if I were to run one, M1 AFE would be my choice.

Maybe instead of an early oil change, throw a Fram XG on there to get some superior particle capture.

If I owned a vehicle with an OLM on it I would either cover the OLM with tape and/or disconnect it. I would change the oil when I wanted to change the oil, not when my engine or computer told me to. Call me old fashioned, I don't care. If you want to pay the car note then you can tell me how to change the oil. If I'm paying the note, well, that makes it mine and I can do with it as I please.
Now, under warranty, that's a different story. But, they would still be happy with me by knowing the oil AND filter would be changed more often then what is called for.
Let the fireworks begin! I'm ready!
28.gif



Cover up the speedometer too, you know how fast you're going. Even if you're wrong, it's a lot more fun guessing all the time. Computers, knowledge, facts, evidence - that's all just sissy stuff.
 
Originally Posted By: bigt61
Originally Posted By: BlueOvalFitter
Originally Posted By: Gasbuggy
0w20 in a LS engine moving weight around just doesn't sound ideal to me. But if I were to run one, M1 AFE would be my choice.

Maybe instead of an early oil change, throw a Fram XG on there to get some superior particle capture.

If I owned a vehicle with an OLM on it I would either cover the OLM with tape and/or disconnect it. I would change the oil when I wanted to change the oil, not when my engine or computer told me to. Call me old fashioned, I don't care. If you want to pay the car note then you can tell me how to change the oil. If I'm paying the note, well, that makes it mine and I can do with it as I please.
Now, under warranty, that's a different story. But, they would still be happy with me by knowing the oil AND filter would be changed more often then what is called for.
Let the fireworks begin! I'm ready!
28.gif



Cover up the speedometer too, you know how fast you're going. Even if you're wrong, it's a lot more fun guessing all the time. Computers, knowledge, facts, evidence - that's all just sissy stuff.


+1
 
Thanks for all your input guys. Really liking the vehicle as it is our new family hauler.

Thanks GM Boy for being part of the GM Team. My father and grandfather were GM employees for most of their life career. My grandfather was a tool and die maker and my father was in the safety appliance dept. Both at the Trenton plant that is now closed and torn down. I was wondering if you knew what oil the factory fill is.

The truck looks real nice to work on for maintenance.

By the way I will be forgoing the (4 free) 2 GM oil changes and 2 free dealer oil changes. I am a retired auto. tech. and it is easier and better piece of mind to do the maintenance myself. I have decided on M1 filter or Fram Ultra and still undecided about oil choice. I would be more inclined to run Amsoil or Schaeffers, however being direct injection, potentially with fuel dilution issues and the frequent short trips, moisture issues, I am thinking I will be better with more frequent fresh oil to rid of fuel and moisture. Also 8 quarts of boutique oil can be expensive probably 2-3 changes per yer.

I will try to add a picture.
 
Is your reason for the Napa Gold due to the bypass valve location? Threaded for Napa Gold, Dome side for Mobil 1 filter.
 
Yes it is, also some of the recent M1 autopsies haven't impressed me any in terms of construction quality for what you're paying. I prefer a baseplate end bypass for vertically mounted filters. Should reduce the possibility of the filter passing collected carbon from the base of the filter through the engine on a bypass event. Is it a long shot, sure, however when we're talking about taking protection to the extreme here in most threads, why not especially for a similar price point. Congrats on the new truck!
 
Originally Posted By: bigt61
Originally Posted By: BlueOvalFitter
Originally Posted By: Gasbuggy
0w20 in a LS engine moving weight around just doesn't sound ideal to me. But if I were to run one, M1 AFE would be my choice.

Maybe instead of an early oil change, throw a Fram XG on there to get some superior particle capture.

If I owned a vehicle with an OLM on it I would either cover the OLM with tape and/or disconnect it. I would change the oil when I wanted to change the oil, not when my engine or computer told me to. Call me old fashioned, I don't care. If you want to pay the car note then you can tell me how to change the oil. If I'm paying the note, well, that makes it mine and I can do with it as I please.
Now, under warranty, that's a different story. But, they would still be happy with me by knowing the oil AND filter would be changed more often then what is called for.
Let the fireworks begin! I'm ready!
28.gif



Cover up the speedometer too, you know how fast you're going. Even if you're wrong, it's a lot more fun guessing all the time. Computers, knowledge, facts, evidence - that's all just sissy stuff.

I don't recall my grandfather having to use a OLM , or, cover up his speedometer. Even my dad never had to use an OLM. They went by how many miles or months the oil stayed in the oil pan/engine. You know, normal use, severe use, etc. Now, if they covered up the speedometer, how would they know how fast they were traveling?
 
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