Oil drain plug dilemma

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I bought my 4runner earlier this year and when I went to change the oil for the first time I found one of these guys in place of the usual oil drain plug:

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I have changed my oil twice since I've had it and really want to get rid of this thing and replace it with an oversize self tapping bolt. I would not hesitate to get a new pan normally but my wife and I just adopted our nephew after her brother passed away (moms on drugs) so we're a little strapped for cash since we already have two little ones of our own.

Not only this but to get the oil pan off this particular 4runner you need to remove the drive shaft and front differential. So with that said I have a couple of questions:


  • The original bolt size is m12-1.25 should I try to find an oversize bolt of this size for just jump to m14-1.50 (much more common)?
  • How would one go about removing this type of plug from out of the pan? I imagine the previous owner took it to a jiffy lube type place and they ended up stripped the pans threads. I know they didn't go to all of the trouble to remove the pan to just insert this plug.


Thanks in advance for any advice you may be able to offer.
 
Keep unscrewing it until the end falls off. Use a pick to manuver it out. They're designed as a plan B to replacing a pan. If I recall, the 4 runner has a steel pan?? With aluminum I wouldn't take that out but in steel i would say just remove and replace. Too many shops will cut it and leave the tip in there. There really isn't any reason to remove unless the gasket is worn badly or it just annoys you when it takes forever to drain.
 
Originally Posted By: CHARLIEBRONSON21
Keep unscrewing it until the end falls off. Use a pick to manuver it out. They're designed as a plan B to replacing a pan. If I recall, the 4 runner has a steel pan?? With aluminum I wouldn't take that out but in steel i would say just remove and replace. Too many shops will cut it and leave the tip in there. There really isn't any reason to remove unless the gasket is worn badly or it just annoys you when it takes forever to drain.


The pan is indeed made of steel. The reason I want to remove it is because it is beginning to weep and leaves a couple of oil drops on my driveway every few days. Also, it makes a big mess when trying to change the oil. It likes to splatter all over that cup piece.

Any recommendations on the plug size I should look at getting?
 
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I just wanted to post that I have found a good walkthrough on the removal of this device. Credit goes to "TheJanitor" who posted this on the NAXJA forums. I hope this is useful for someone who may find themselves faced with the same issue.

Originally Posted By: TheJanitor
I searched on how to remove a pan saver and ended up here. none of the answers here answered how to remove it, so, even though this thread is way long in the tooth, I'll answer the question here since this page was near the top of Google when I searched for how to remove one this afternoon.

A pan saver is a nefarious device created, not to save your pan, but to allow the oil change place to seal your pan when they screw up putting the plug back in. (Hint: change your own oil once someone says they had to install a pan saver...). Knowing what your adversary looks like helps in removing it. This image was all I needed in order to get the bugger out of my life:

As you can see, they are a lot like the "toggle bolt" wall anchors. When the oaf under your car drops or cross-threads your plug while changing your oil, s/he can resort to one of these diabolical devices to keep all the oil they're about to pump in from immediately running all over the floor. They are installed by folding the barbed toggle against the threaded rod, shoving the slightly-too-large-for-the-opening toggle into the pan through the drain hole, pulling to deploy the toggle, then screwing the cap end against the pan to seal the drain. There's a big gob of rubber between the cap and the toggle that usually gets shredded by nearby engine parts to prevent it from actually doing what it is intended for. Most of the time, when you remove the things, the hole is undamaged, and you're left wondering why the [censored] put the [censored] thing in in the first place. (Hint: usually because they dropped yours and were too lazy to retrieve it.)

Removing the cap and threaded rod is pretty straightforward: just unscrew it. Depending on where your drain is in relation to pan floor, you may have to pull back on the cap while turning it to keep the toggle from spinning. Careful! Don't bend the threaded rod by prying against the cap end!

A note to the uninitiated: unless you suctioned the oil from the pan through the fill or dip tube, the oil will be leaving your pan as you unscrew this thing. Best to be prepared...

The end of the threaded rod typically has a crimp to prevent you from accidentally separating the two if you don't want to. If you can see past the cap, once you've unscrewed it until it gets tough to turn, you may be able to insert a thin rod to fold the toggle back against the threaded rod, and then pull the whole shebang out of the hole. If you can't, and your pan is aluminum or some other nonferrous (magnet won't stick) material, you can keep unscrewing the thing until the two halves separate, then use a strong magnet to guide the toggle toward the drain from beneath. Then use the "magnet on a screwdriver" trick - put a strong magnet on the shaft of a screwdriver, then insert the screwdriver blade into the hole - to maneuver one end of the toggle out of the drain hole to where you can get a grip on it. A firm grip on a pair of needlenose pliers (or a needlenose vicegrip), and a manly tug, and the thing will soon be in the palm of your hand. (I just finished using this particular technique on my son's 2003 Ford Escape. Hole wasn't stripped. Beware the quick oil change shops...)

Be sure you have a replacement drain plug (or another pan saver - just in case!) before going about this.

So there ya have it. If you're searching for how to remove one of those nefarious pan savers, and this thread pops up, you now have fresh, first-hand knowledge in how to do the necessary deed.

Cheers!
 
I have one of those on my van from the previous owner, And yes it does tend to splatter when draining you need a full sized oil drain pan. If you want to take it out, unscrew it all of the way and fish out the spring nut with a magnet. maybe position the nut first with a stiff wire you can bend to whatever shape is needed.

For the oil plug size here is a list of standard oil plugs you can get at the auto store. Sometimes the oil plug hole is only stripped halfway through and you can use an extended oil plug. You will have to see for yourself after you examine the oil plug hole if it needs an extended plug or should be tapped to the next size.

https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=3&cad=rja&ved=0CGUQFjAC&url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.dormanproducts.com%2Fcatalog%2Fhardware2006%2F035-040_Sec3_Part2.pdf&ei=rx5WUvWcMvGl4AOQ84DQBA&usg=AFQjCNErMMSwjIRtr-rs2v87P1pwkOMlCA&sig2=mUfi61ibMSJ1PLtDUe8gHw&bvm=bv.53760139,d.dmg

If the link does not work search for.

oil drain plugs dorman products
 
Just wanted to post an update to this... so I took off both skid plates that protect the radiator and oil pan. I proceed to clean both of them up (current have a valve cover leak) and what do I find in the build up of mud/oil in the front most skid plate? That's right, my oil drain plug complete with gasket. It appears as though the quick lube place must have lost it and said 'screw it' and replaced with a toggle plug unit. It's too soon for me to find out if the pan threads are stripped as I just changed my oil a month or so ago but this is beginning to look positive!
 
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