Those with 150,000 miles or more, check in

[Tdbo]

2000 Ford Taurus (Purchased new) with 253K
Original Engine and Transmission
Have always maintained on a "severe service" regimen
Only mechanical items replaced for failure: Starter, A/C compressor, A/C clutch.
Mechanical items replaced as Proactive Maintenance: Timing Chain, Water pump, Cam Synchronizer.
Oil changed 3-3500 miles with name brand, whatever dino oil is on sale (or what the oil change place I go to at that point in time installs.)
Transmission fluid changed yearly (about 35K). Last couple of changes were Valvoline/Napa Mercon V.
Suspension parts replaced: Basic Taurus stuff: Struts, suspension links, front springs, lower ball joints.
Rest: Standard by the book maintenance. On its second battery.
Very dependable, runs like a champ on a 130 mile/ day round trip commute.

 

[sleddriver]

The car in my sig. Fed syn. from various mixers, in various weights since ~50,000 mi. (warranty expired). Mann & Mahle filters. OCI ~ 10,000 mi with a filter change at 5,000. Motor burns no oil. Compression test (hot): ~180psi all 5 cylinders. Head has never been off, motor still original.

Previous sled was a 1985 SAAB 900T I bought new. Followed OM OCI's till about 160,000 when I began using syn. and stretched them out to 10,000 mi. OCI. Mann & Mahle filters. Mostly 10w-30 dino/syn then 20w-50 syn. Motor burned no oil. Original turbo lasted 205,000mi (not water cooled). Two head gaskets. Sold at 256,000 mi.

 

[DC44]

Buick Park Avenue 192,000 miles. Had it since I was 18 bought with 108,000 miles.

I've used mostly penzoil products. I started of with 3k oil changes and moved up to around 5k oil changes and now whatever the OLM say thats what I do. The car shows no signs of stopping and I will hate to see it go. I've done some long road trips in it lately but I trust it. Will hate to see it go but it seems that it can do 250k easily provided the transmission last that long.

But with the rise in used car prices in the economy today, it may be wiser to just get a tranny rebuild and drive another 100k.

 

[67lemans]

97 Saturn SW2 187,000 miles on it. I think I'm the third or fourth owner. I currently have some QSHM 5W30. Has a misfire on one cylinder. Got it for 500 bucks.

77 IH Scout showing 33,000 miles on it. (guessing it has turned over) I usually run rotella 10w30 or 15w30 in it. Just did a change with 7 qts of Pennzoil HM 10W30.

 

[ranger99]

1999 Ranger 2.5 litre 5 speed manual. 268,000 K on it now and still running strong. Whatever dino on sale in the summer and syn in the winter (as of the last couple winters).

 

[nleksan]

**2001 BMW 325i (2.5L I6, 5spd MT, Sport Pkg, European Delivery) - 150,188miles
Engine Oil - Royal Purple (SL) 5w30
Oil Filter - K&N HP7007
Transmission Fluid - Redline D4 ATF
Differential Fluid - Redline 75w90
Power Steering Fluid - Redline D4 ATF
Brake Fluid - Motul RBF600
Coolant - BMW Coolant 40:60 (AF:H2O) + 16oz Redline Water Wetter

2000 Toyota Camry LE (2.2L I4, 4spd AT, Premium Sound, Comfort Package) - 210,650miles (est)
Engine Oil - Kendall Synthetic 5w30 + 12oz MMO (soon to be filled with Pennzoil Platinum)
Oil Filter - Bosch DistancePlus (soon to be M1 EM)
Transmission Fluid - Toyota ATF
Differential Fluid - Toyota-brand
Power Steering Fluid - Valvoline Synthetic
Brake Fluid - ATE Super Blue
Coolant - OEM Toyota Coolant 40:60 (AF:H2O) + 16oz RL Water Wetter

 

[Cristobal]

There are 158389 miles on The Beast; I usually fill it with a semi-synthetic witch's brew from my stash.

Next fill will be a quart of MMO, four quarts of PYB SM grade about 10W-40 in viscosity, and one quart of Napa Synthetic 5W-30 SM grade. This will be within 200 more miles. I will use a high performance oil filter, and leave the filter on for 15,000 miles. But the oil will get changed again at the 7500 mile mark which will most likely be around December 2012. I'll stick to 5W-30 Napa Synthetic on that fill.

 

[redcar2003]

Toyota Hi-Lux '94 2.8 Diesel 2WD

287,200Km - Turbo installed at 108,000Km
Penzoil 15W40 Diesel LL upto 225,000Km from new, then Penrite 15W50 Diesel till now. Cheapest filter I can get on the day. Always changed at 5K Km.

Still runs like new. Nil usage between fills and has often done long runs towing 2 to 3 ton in weather between -10 and +40 Deg C.

 

[kschachn]

Here's four of them for you. The two Toyotas were purchased new and had M1 in them since the first oil change, except the Sienna has used CG off and on (but CG clogs up the PCV valve faster). The Honda has M1 and the BMW has T6.

M1 ATF in the BMW, Sienna and Accord, Amsoil MTF of some sort (I forget, whatever they recommend and was at my local NAPA) in the ECHO. ATE Typ 200 in all four. M1 ATF in power steering except the BMW which is Pentosin and Honda which is Honda Power Steering Fluid.

OEM coolants in all four, Toyota red, Honda Type 2 and BMW blue.

 

[IndyIan]

I guess the Neon is over 150k miles now.
For first 100k it was quickilube 5W30 and filters, mostly changed at 5000km intervals.
I started autocrossing it at about 100k and found bitog, at first I used whatever 5W30 syn was on sale with Napa cheap filters at 8000km intervals. At 125k miles I've switched to HDEO, 15W40 dino for summer, 5W40 for winter changed in spring and fall regardless of miles. Motor has developed a slight cold knock on start up but seems to run well regardless.

 

[kschachn]

Oh and one interesting thing, I just this past month finally had to buy a new battery for the ECHO. The original Panasonic battery lasted exactly 12 years!

 

[LazyPrizm]

2002 Chevrolet Prizm "LSi" (woo, alloy rims), aka a Corolla with a Delco stereo. Just hit 152,000mi today, bought used 2-1/2 years ago @90,000. Only things I've replaced are the starter and last week, the PCV valve (which was disgusting -- wish I'd found BITOG earlier). Prev. owner might have changed hoses at some point.

I normally run whatever HM oil is on sale + P1 filter, or a mix of the leftover quart bottles I get from the buy 5 sales (engine takes ~4qts). Next OC will be PU for 5K mi + oversize Wix for cleaning.

Hope it keeps running happy, I don't want the hassle of getting a new car

 

[SargeBB]

Originally Posted By: kschachn
Oh and one interesting thing, I just this past month finally had to buy a new battery for the ECHO. The original Panasonic battery lasted exactly 12 years!

You've got me beat. The battery on my 1996 v-6 Camry is only 9 years and 7 months old, at this point. Car has 274,750 miles. I purchased it new 11/1995. I plan to change the oil tomorrow: Mobil-1 10W-40 with Wix extra capacity filter. Now that gas is so expensive, we make all long trips in this car. OCI: 5K to 8K.
ATF: Mobil-1 @ 25K to 35K pan drains...
Original A/T and engine. NO oil usage whatsoever.
I have only replaced the battery one time. Original muffler and struts. Timing belt changed every 75K. Michelins, Mobil-1 Top-Tier gasoline & Toyota are a winning combination for me.

 

[Solarent]

2004 Chevrolet Colorado (gas of course)
350k km (220mi)
OCI @ 8500mi on PetroCanada 5w30

Thought my tranny had a leaky seal finally, but the pan was just a little loose. Still moving fine and does a lot of highway and mountain driving.

 

[Treb]

i just hit 164,000 on my Grand Am yesterday. gonna change the oil tomorrow. putting in QSUD and a P1 filter.

 

[Maxima97]

1993 Toyota LE 1.6L 210kmi, Kendall GT1 10W30 summer, M1 10W30 Winter, Fram yellow can

 

[CATERHAM]

Originally Posted By: Maxima97
1993 Toyota LE 1.6L 210kmi, Kendall GT1 10W30 summer, M1 10W30 Winter, Fram yellow can

Bad choices.
A 10W-30 syn' is a reduntant product.
If you need a heavier 0W-30 or 5W-30 syn' oil then choose one with a higher HTHSV rating.
In the case of M1 5W-30 (HTHSV 3.1cP) it already has a HTHSV higher than M1 10W-30 (HTHSV 3.0cP). And if you still need something heavier simply add some M1 0W-40. This will ofcourse thincken up the oil as much as you want while actually improving the oil's VI thereby minimizing cold start performance.

 

[Doc Holiday]

Originally Posted By: Last_Z
One more thing.....looking at these posts makes you wonder if synthetic oil is really needed in many of our vehicles. Maybe the synthetic makers are hyping and scaring people to sell the more expensive stuff?

as some that is in the know..the answer is yes and no. Just a few years back synthetics didn't have near the market they have now. There is a push to sell synthetics because the oil makers, make a lot more money on synthetics. I've seen reg. oil go past 300k many times. Yes synthetics are better....but for 90% of the people, plain dino oil is great and is cheap. Today's oils are so much better than yesterday's "SH" spec oils.
_________________________
Bradly

 

[Doc Holiday]

Originally Posted By: kschachn
Oh and one interesting thing, I just this past month finally had to buy a new battery for the ECHO. The original Panasonic battery lasted exactly 12 years!


I had a Mustang (3.8 v6) that had the factory MC battery in it for 10 years. I replaced it because it started slowing down (dragging) and I was giving the car to my teen daughter. I wonder how much longer it would have lasted.

 

[buster]

154k on the Accord. 2.4L.