1986 BMW K75C 2100miles on VR-1 20W 50 @ 138,211

[ammolab]

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First oil was Mobil 1 TDT 5W-40 (4000miles)
Next came Mobil 1 15W-50 (4000miles)
Current report is Valvoline Dino VR-1 20W-50 (only 2000miles)

Maybe Mobil 1 is not an "iron solvent" for me as iron was as high or higher on the VR-1. Could be the old engine is just going to show these high metals until it dies. There is no iron in the block or cylinder walls, no tranny gears in the crankase oil and I did look at the cams and bottom end during this OCI (silicone sealant? YES!) and see no wear inside. I wonder about the timing chain..and there are gears that drive the balancer, alternator and output shaft.

 

[abycat]

You have alot of fuel in the last two uoa`s. That and shearing would give you worse numbers than you should have but I dont think you have the best type of oil for your car in it now or before. I wonder if a HDEO would be a better choice for you. I do lean towards delo when it comes to HDEO`s if you went that route.

 

[KernelK]

Ammolab,

You might want to have a look at the cam chain guides, those nylon or plastic coated pieces that the chain runs on. If the coating is worn through it might produce higher iron readings.

I don't see that less than 1/2 % is high fuel.

 

[ammolab]

Originally Posted By: KernelK
Ammolab,

You might want to have a look at the cam chain guides, those nylon or plastic coated pieces that the chain runs on. If the coating is worn through it might produce higher iron readings.

I don't see that less than 1/2 % is high fuel.


I thought about those, and are they chrome plated? That would add chrome and copper as well....I had them replaced @ 75,000miles so they may be due....thanks!

 

[KernelK]

That was just a thought about the chain guides. What little I have read about them indicates that they do not wear excessively even at high mileages though. If you had them replaced @ 75,000 you wouldn't expect a problem but who knows. Why does any machine have a problem in a certain area and identical machines never experience it at two or three times the mileage?

 

[abycat]

Originally Posted By: KernelK

I don't see that less than 1/2 % is high fuel.


Flashpoint seems pretty low.

 

[KernelK]

Originally Posted By: abycat
Originally Posted By: KernelK

I don't see that less than 1/2 % is high fuel.


Flashpoint seems pretty low.


Really? Comb through some Blackstone UOAs and note how many you see having a flashpoint exceeding 420 degrees. They are extremely rare. Further, look at some Blackstone VOAs from the likes of Motul, Mobil 1, Shell synthetics and others and note how many flashpoints exceed 420. Not many of those either.

 

[sunruh]

out of 62 uoa's i have done, only 6 have a flash better than 420.
and ya know what?
2 of them are VR1 !!! both were from sae50.

and my test of VR1 20w50 gave a 420 as well.

your motor sure can chew up oil. nice mixmaster you have there!

since i know exactly where you live and the temps you see, i would suggest maybe SRT 15w40 in the winter ***IF*** you are going to ride this bike in the winter and VR1 sae50 in the summer.

all in all, a pretty decent report with that many miles on it!

steve

 

[ammolab]

Originally Posted By: sunruh

since i know exactly where you live and the temps you see, i would suggest maybe SRT 15w40 in the winter ***IF*** you are going to ride this bike in the winter and VR1 sae50 in the summer.

all in all, a pretty decent report with that many miles on it!

steve


Steve: I don't really want to run "seasonal" oils as my yearly mileage on that bike may be less that it used to be. I bought a new R1200R in July. I'm thinking of Syntec 5W-50 'classic car' synthetic as a good one to try. I may have to wait until I use up my stash of VR-1 from the "free case rebate" sale of 2011!!

 

[Mackelroy]

If your not happy with the vr1, the 5w50 castrol, I see fairing worse not better. Its not real synthetic, so it will be full of polymers to easily break down.

Try a higher moly content oil, since it didnt sound like clutch was an issue. Redline, Motul 15w50 Pro ect.

 

[sunruh]

i agree, i dont think 5w50 will stand the test.
i also agree that motul or maxima should get the call next.
and yes i know you have a new bike. so with riding this one less
you could probably go with the high dollar motul or maxima fill.

 

[ammolab]

Originally Posted By: sunruh
i agree, i dont think 5w50 will stand the test.
i also agree that motul or maxima should get the call next.
and yes i know you have a new bike. so with riding this one less
you could probably go with the high dollar motul or maxima fill.


Is there a place to buy Maxima "real synthetic" oil for less than $16/quart

While those oils may be interesting to try, I don't know if the COST of them makes sense in a 27year old bike that will outlive me no matter what oil I run in there for 2000 miles/year. In any case it will be a year before I dump the Mobil 1 15W-50 I have in there now.

I am inclined to run Valvoline "Synthetic" VR-1 20W-50 on my next change. I also got a case of that nearly free and I wonder if it will test exactly the same as the Dino did.

 

[sunruh]

there is no doubt that maxima is way up on the spendy list.
and i threw that out there.
it all depends on what you want to do with that bike.
imho i'd run the vr1 (and flavor) until it dies.

 

[ammolab]

Originally Posted By: sunruh
there is no doubt that maxima is way up on the spendy list.
and i threw that out there.
it all depends on what you want to do with that bike.
imho i'd run the vr1 (and flavor) until it dies.

Yep...or until I DIE. I am 65

I do have an oil temp and pressure gauge on the bike. With a 4qt sump on a 750cc water cooled bike, the oil never gets that hot, maybe 210F on a 100+F day. Even that TDT 5W-40 that cut down to a low 30wt (at best), gave me 65psi oil pressure @ 2000 RPM.