Oil for 2006 Kia Spectra5

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In the shocker of the year, I have traded in my 2004 Nissan Titan for a 2006 Kia Spectra 5. I'm looking for oil recommendations in the beast. I haven't found that many UOA's on Kia vehicles at all.

Engine is a Hyundai 2.0 "Beta II" with variable valve timing, or CVVT as they call it. It has 138HP.

Manufacturer's recommendations are all over the place. The factory service manual is actually available ONLINE (!!!!) at the following address:
http://msw.kiausa.com/viewer/default.asp?group=shop

Choose the options for Spectra[LD], 2006, and 2.0 to get the service manual for my car.

In there, it mentions using an oil of API SH or above and ILSAC GF-1. It seems to state that 10w30 is OK up to 40C, but that 10w40 and 15w40 should be used for temps above that (we do occasionally exceed 40C/102F here in the summertime). 5w30 is stated to be only for use in temps below 10C.

Wow. This is the kind of recommendations most manufacturers made up until the early 80s, but haven't been seen in quite some time.

The owner's manual seems to paint a different picture. It gives the specs as SJ,SL or above, ILSAC GF-3 or above. 10w30 is ok from -5 to 120F, which would certainly encompass any conditions I am likely to encounter here in Texas. 5w20 and 5w30 are allowed from the bottom of the scale to the top. This is a big departure from what's in the factory service manual.

Additionally the owner's manual says: "For better fuel economy, it is recommended to to use the engine oil of a viscosity grade SAE 5w20,5w30 (API SJ,SL / ILSAC GF-3). However, the engine oil is not available in your country, select the proper engine oil using the engine oil viscosity chart. Now while I would certainly like to get better mileage, I would also like to get the lowest wear readings...

Regardless, it seems like that for 97% of the time around here, both sources would be ok with 10w30. And, being able to use SJ oils would probably allow for usage of CI-4+ diesel oils, which have much higher ZDDP levels. However, are any of these oils GF-3?

I'm probably going to have to change every 3,000 to stay in warranty compliance, so probably dino is in order, unfortunately. The severe service schedule is 3 mos/3,000 miles. I do lots of short trips and frequent driving above 90F so I definitely qualify.

Any recommendations...let's hear em. Also interested in filter recommendations.
 
Go by the owner's manual and use 5W30 or 10W30, your choice. In Austin, I suspect 10W30 works well. Any SL or SM conventional oil on the market will work well for you.
 
I would use 5w20 SM, ILSAC GF-4. If it is genuine it will have a API Sunburst symbol on the front. For conventional oils I like Pennzoil yellow bottle and Castrol GTX. A bit of a step up is to use Motorcraft semi-synthetic 5w20, if you can justify the extra cost.

There is not much difference in going to a 5w30 with the same SM/GF-4, but it will cost you a touch in mileage. I would not recommend a 10w30, unless you have to save every last penny in cost of the oil.
 
See guys, with the ability to use SJ oils, I'd rather use something with higher adds than the SM OTC stuff.

The Motorcraft HDEO 10w30 comes to mind....
 
quote:

Originally posted by Brons2:
See guys, with the ability to use SJ oils, I'd rather use something with higher adds than the SM OTC stuff.

The Motorcraft HDEO 10w30 comes to mind....


Not sure what you mean. Anyone can use SJ if they buy it. The real question is why would you want to use an old spec oil, that is less demanding. Suggest you compare the specs for each. SM has the lowest wear allowances.

Oh, yes on filters, I do recommend using one.

http://www.infineum.com/information/api-passenger-sj-sl-2004.html
http://www.infineum.com/information/api-passenger-sm-2004.html
 
SM also has ZDDP limited to 800ppm. It is a step in the wrong direction, IMHO. I used adds in the Titan to boost ZDDP with resulting analysis improvments.

If one can get SJ level adds with modern basestocks, that would be the best protection available.
 
I would use 10w30, SM, GF-4 Dino in your area and not worry about it. As for filters, I like Wix or NAPA Gold also, you can't go wrong with OEM. You might want to check with the dealer service department to see what weight oil they use.
 
quote:

Originally posted by Brons2:
SM also has ZDDP limited to 800ppm. It is a step in the wrong direction, IMHO.

There is more to oil than ZDDP. Suggest you read and compare those specs I posted. Or if you are not convinced, buy SM for all the other benefits, add more ZDDP, and sacrifice your converter.
 
Give me a break Ron. In an engine that doesn't use oil, your converter will not be 'ruined'.

This debate has been done on this board many times before your registration, and I'm sure it will rage on in the future. I have already seen the specs before I started this thread. Many of them are the function of the basestocks and not the additives, i.e., it is dificult to engineer a modern multigrade SM 5w30 with Group I basestocks. There's no question the additive packages are weaker. One need only look at an oil like Mobil Clean 7500 to see how they are attempting to compensate for ZDDP by adding more radical additive chemistry.

The argument that SM is superior then by spec, resides mostly on the improved basestocks that the manufacturers had to use to meet the spec. It ignores the possibility that there may be oils that have similar or even superior basestocks along with clearly superior add packs.

Given the availability of modern basestocks like Chevron's grp II+ ISOSYN with a higher additive level (say SL for comparison's sake) wouldn't you really rather have the higher additive level in there if you are running a tight engine? I know I would.
 
Why is it a big shocker? Spectra5 is a nice car. Be sure to use Hyundai/Kia oil filters at each oil change. I recommend Castrol or Castrol Synthetic 5w20... jus tmy opinion.
 
It's a big shocker because I am really a truck guy. I am a big bubba, 6'7" and 260 lbs. Headroom is good in the Spectra5 though. Legroom is slightly cramped, but usable.

Who makes the Hyundai/Kia filters? I am curious to cut one open.
 
nope, I am not. Other than being a tall person I have no use for a truck. And I live smack dab in the middle of town. The one thing I need to fit inside is my bicycle, and I can fit it inside the Kia hatchback with the backseats folded down.

This car will save me $350 per month over the Titan when payments, insurance and gas are considered.

I loved my Titan, but it was time to move on.

I'd rather put that extra money into my bicycles. I ride 5000-7000 miles per year.
 
Had absolutely no oil problems in my 01 Elantra. Kept it for about 80K and gave it to my daughter who totaled it after a month.

Used ST 10w30 9 months of the year and 5w30 for 3 months for the first three years. Reversed it to mostly 5w30 for the last year if memory serves me right.

Hyundai's do need thicker oil in warm weather. 10w30 should work for most of the year for you in Texas.

Good engine but tight. Mileage tends to increase after about a year or so.
 
Never go over a 30 weight oil. The oil passages are small and your cvvt system will not work with heaver oil. The manuals need updated
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Do not use anything but the OEM filter. They can and will, and have dennied warranty coverage if the engine fails and you have a non oem filter on it. Problem is our pumps are low pressure and they get the pressure up with small oil passages. If the filter does not flow as spected then you got oil starvation. Congrats on a guuuureaaaaaaaaaat car that will last you for years.

Ken
 
Thanks for the info Ken42.

That's unfortunate about the filter, there are certainly aftermarket filters out there that have good flow. The purolators (non pure-one) certainly come to mind. I don't mind running the OEM filter, but the dealer is not very close to my house, making for something of an inconvenience.

I ran the Nissan OEM filters, but it was not such a hassle since the dealer was right down the street from my work.
 
Search the UOA forum for Hyundai, my 2.0 BETA is in there a few times (same exact engine).
As for the filters, I had found a place online that sold OEM for like $4-5 each when bought in bulk ( I will look for that). A dealer local to me sells them for $5, and that includes the crush washer (that I don't need). I also have a few Purolator Premiums I am going to try, but I usualy do stick with the OEM. Search around here for the TSB on the Hyundai/kia filters. Basicaly people were complaining of a ticking sound. The first step in the diagnosis is an oil change and using an OEM filter.
I have search around and still have not been able to find who makes OEM. I have narrowed it down to 3-4 companies (will search for that list I made).
I have used syn oils since about 6000 miles, all with pretty good results. 0w-30 (German Castrol and Mobil 1 (SL version)) and 10w-30 (Royal purple and Havoline Syn, both SL) so far, and my next change will be with 5w-30 (PP), which I will probably stick with from now on.

And don't know which tranny you have, but if the auto, only use the Hyundai/Kia SP-III fluid.
 
What does it say on the oil cap? My 06 RIO says 5w20 GF-3 on the cap. Also if you have a log in for the rest of the GDS system uses it states that cars are being delivered with 5w20 since July 04.

From technical times on the GDS system:

Beginning with 7/1/04 production date, 5W20/GF-3 engine oil has been used in production of all Kia vehicles. 5W20/GF-3 oil is the recommended replacement oil regardless of region or climate. In the event that 5W20 engine oil is not available, 5W30 may be substituted.

Beginning with 8/9/04 production date, 75W85 API GL-3 manual transmission lubricant has been used in all manual transmissions in Kia vehicles.

I just did a UOA of GTX 5w20 and wear looks good for just over 2k miles.
 
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