500,000 KM (300,000 Miles) and using what oil?

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Just wanted to poll everyone on how many people were able to achieve the 500,000KM (300,000 Miles) with their vehicles.

If you did, what kind of Car/Engine and what brand and change interval?

Cheers!
 
The engine usually isn't the problem, it's the transmission and electrical system.

Any engine on the market right now with proper maitenence and a approved lubricant can likely go 500,000 km without a rebuild.
 
480,000 kms on '83 civic. Ran Castrol GTX w/ Fram filters (Yes FRAM) its entire life. Original engine and tranny. Still running to the person I sold it to.

I think you'll find the moral of the story is that most cars, with proper maintenance will reach that number easily, regardless of the brand of oil they use, provided they do not crash.

Technically, with an engine rebuild, it could last forever with new parts?
 
My grams had a Ford Tempo that was at 334,000 miles when she sold it 2 years ago. It's still running.

That car was a beast. Most reliable car I've ever seen, even if it was ugly as sin.

She took it to the Valvoline instant oil change and used the conventional oil.
 
When I was able to put on 300,000 miles on a vehicle, I used only dino oil. Most of the oils I used were name brand held in high regard here at Bob's but, I also used plenty of store brand oils in the proper grade. 3000-5000 miles OCI's was normal for me when the oils were SE/SF or SG/SJ. Kids are now gone and there are no more travel sports, long family vacations by car or school events. The vehicles that got me those miles the easiest were Honda's & Toyotas. The demostics never even came close without falling apart quickly. I don't think that is the case today. I think anything will get you there with little trouble.
 
My dad`s 1990 Olds 88,400k+ miles on Pennz yb 10w30.

Friend`s 1994 Nissan 300ZX twin turbo,near 300k miles on Pennz yb 20w50,still has factory spec compression on all 6 cylinders and has original turbos.

Another`s friend`s 1992 Nissan 300ZX twin turbo,a bit past the 350k mile mark on GTX 20w50 and still has original turbos.
 
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Pennz Yb is the Dino Oil that comes in the Yellow Bottle? I had no idea they were that good... Aren't they owned by QS?
 
My parents had a Chevy Astro van that I grew up with that had 460,000 on it when it died. My father drove around for years after the speedometer broke, and those miles never got put on the clock. My father said it probably had around 600,000 miles on it.

My folks bought it new and the first thing we did was do a cross country family trip in it. I still think the initial highway miles really help break in an engine.

All he ever did was change out the oil at the local cheapo oil place. After finding this site I am teaching him different and answering questions he has.
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I want to come back to this Forum in a couple years time and tell everyone that I got 500,000 out of my Hyundai Santa Fe. It's an '06 and I have 130,000km (80,000 miles) on it already!
 
1986 Toyota pickup, 4 cyl 22R engine, 300,310 miles, original untouched engine. It also has original transmission and original clutch. Rear end is also all original.

Oil from day I bought it to 20,000 miles was Castrol 20W-50 conventional. When Castrol Syntec became available, I switched to Syntec 5W-50. When Mobil 1 15W-50 became available, about 40,000 miles, 1990, I switched to that and have used it ever since. I changed the oil today.

I used the Toyota filter until they switched to the small size filter. I then changed to the big Wix filter.

I use Amsoil gear lube in the manual transmission and rear end and I can't remember how long I have used it, but it has been years. I change oil and filter at 3000 miles, air filter at 6000-12,000 miles, transmission and rear end at 25,000 miles. I change the fuel filter at around 12,000 miles. I use platinum plugs and change them at 25,000 miles.

I think what impresses me most about this truck is that it has the original clutch and I can set the park brake and kill the engine.

It also gets a very good 26-28 MPG.
 
I posted in your other thread about your OCIs and Amsoil. You can make 300k with REGULAR oil changes, REGARDLESS of synthetic or dino. Dino every 5K will get you there, syn every 7-10K will get you there too. Like everybody else said, the rest of the vehicle will degrade all around you before you have an oil related issue if you stick to regular oil change intervals.
 
I know you did, and I read it... I just wanted to hear about other stories to see what peoples real-world experiences were... You can get 500K (300K miles) out of a body if you rust-proof it. I proved this with my older vehicle which achieved 400K (Engine rebuilds), with the body still looking almost original.
 
1988 Toyota Camry with 352,000 miles ... original engine and transmission. Still running strong, but has a rear main seal going.

Pennzoil 5W30/10W30 and mostly Toyota & Purolator, but also Fram and Lee (back in the day) filters.

Drain and fills of transmission every 30K.
 
I had a 1973 BMW 2002 with 420,000 miles. It had the h%&l driven out of it and the rings were starting to go, when it finally rusted away. Just used normal dino oil, every 5,000 miles, sometimes 10w30, sometimes 20w50. I used Castrol GTX back then, but I don't know what the previous owners did. My 95 Dodge Colt has a very similar feel to it, just not the looks :) and I use only 5w30 dino in summer and synth in winter, superTech or whatever is on sale. Only has 180,000 miles so far but runs like a dream. I change the colt every 3000 miles. It only has a little 3.5l crank case, so I baby it.
 
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Originally Posted By: StevieC
Pennz Yb is the Dino Oil that comes in the Yellow Bottle? I had no idea they were that good... Aren't they owned by QS?


Both Pennzoil and Quaker State are owned by SOPUS (Shell)
 
I had an '87 Monte Carlo that had 252,000 miles on it when I sold it in the fall of 2005. It was still on the road back in May or June of this year. It could be getting close to 300,000 at this point.

From about 45,000 miles to 252,000 miles, it was fed Pennzoil conventional (yellow bottle) 10w-30, and fitted with standard AC Delco filters.
 
Had a 1987 Honda Accord hatch fuel injected. Sold it with 305k due to rust in the rear. New owner wrecked it at 320k.

The car was driven hard. Won the state and regional championships (8 times or so) with it for autocross. Must have had at least 30+ drivers co-drive with me (never lost to a teammate!!
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). Used it as a instructor car at Watkins Glen. Revved every day to work. Fun, fun car with suspension bits and a header. 34-37 mpg.

Mobil 1 5W-30 every 4000 mi and a Purolator PureOne or Honda Filtech metal endcap filter. Usually Purolators. No wear on valve train when sold. Wow. Insides looked like new. Did valve adjustments every 30k on it.

5-speed manual used Mobil 1 10W-30 every 30k.

Currently have a 95 2.3 4 cyl 2wd Ford Ranger with 165k, lots of towing (racing car) and hauling. Been driven around many race tracks as a instructor vehicle and driven like a sports car.

Use Mobil 1 0W-30 and a Motorcraft or PureOne every 5000 mi. Use Mobil 1 ATF in the 5-speed manual and Mobil 1 75W-90. Runs like new. Original clutch. Bleed the clutch fluid out every other year. 25-28 mpg without a load or hard driving.

Generally use Sunoco gasoline.

While I have had great results with Mobil 1 in my cars and many others, I do use Pennzoil Platinum in my ride on mower and snowblower. So no propaganda here. I buy what works and is reasonably priced and stick with it. PP is harder to get here in some weights than M1.
 
My brother's last two Hondas ( a Civic and a CRX) both went well past 550K km (340K miles). I don't recall the exact mileages but the CRX may have been over 600K km. All he did was Costco $20 oil changes every 10K km. Bear in mind that Hondas could probably go that far with vegetable oil in crankcase. That same oil change regime might not produce the same life with many other cars. It certainly would not work in my Chrysler 2.7
 
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