Your Method of Tire Installation

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Just wanted to discuss our own preferred methods of installing tires. Although there isn't much to it, I'm sure I could learn a thing or two from others.

This is how I do it:

1) Thread the lug nuts (or bolts) on by hand at least several turns.

2) Tighten the lug nuts (or bolts) with a socket by hand (no ratchet, just turn the socket with your hand), as much as possible.

3) With the car still in the air, I use an accutorq stick + impact gun to fully tighten the lug nuts in a star pattern, TWICE.

4) I lower the car, then use a torque wrench to ensure that the lug nuts are tightened to at least the mfg's torque spec.

I have 2 reasons for installing tires the way that I do: a) Tightening the lug nuts/bolts using a socket by hand (and not with a ratchet) ensures that you will not cross-thread; b) Fully tightening the lug nuts/bolts with an impact gun and torque stick prior to using a torque wrench allows for a fail-safe method. Using a torque wrench only creates the vulnerability of under-tightened lug nuts in the event of a torque wrench failure; similarly, using a torque stick only without a follow-up w/torque wrench could result in under-tighened lug nuts in the event of an impact gun malfunction.

How do you install your tires?
 
If my torque wrench fails to a degree where my wheel's going to fall off, I'm going to feel it, as I'm the one torquing.

I just spin them on and drop the tire for any sort of final torque. As long as the hub flange is seated, it's good enough.
 
I thread it by hand then cross wrench star pattern,then wheels
on the ground do tighten it with cross wrench again for good,
drive it around the block park it then check it again.Doing
it for the last 25 years.
 
same as yours, except ours is called " Goodyear Good-To-Go process " .

Hand Thread
Light Impact ( 45 Nm torque sticks )
Hand torque to the final torque requirements
Checked by another person with a torque wrench
 
1. Initially thread by hand a few turns
2. Snug lug nuts then tap around tire with fist to ensure correct seating on disc hub
2. Firmly snug with ratchet mb 20ft/lbs ish?
3. Lower car
4. Manually Torque to 80ft/lbs
 
I thread the lug nuts on a couple of turns, use an impact gun on the lowest setting and run the nuts on until they just seat. Then finish the tightening with a torque wrench, making sure I get movement before the torque wrench clicks.

I do that to insure the lug nuts aren't cross threaded, that the wheel seats firmly, and the right amount of torque is applied. I have the torque spec written on a piece of masking tape next to the vehicle tire placard.
 
1. Start threading by hand
2. Cordless drill/driver to complete (I don't own any air tools)
3. Lower car
4. Torque wrench to specs
 
I start them by hand, then run them on with my impact on low power, and then torque to spec with a torque wrench.
 
Originally Posted By: KD0AXS
I start them by hand, then run them on with my impact on low power, and then torque to spec with a torque wrench.

Yup. I generally just tap the gun once. That is enough to run them all the way down and rattle a few times on each lug. I always get 1/2-1/4 turn out of the lugnuts with the torque wrench after doing this.
 
These days I take the cars by Discount Tire and sip their coffee while tearing Harbor Freight coupons out of copies of Road & Track.

When I have to re/re wheels for maintenance work, I do it exactly as CapriRacer indicated with my electric impact gun and torque wrench. But I do live dangerously and use a light dab of anti-seize on the hub/wheel mating surface and the lug bolt threads.

Originally Posted By: CapriRacer
I thread the lug nuts on a couple of turns, use an impact gun on the lowest setting and run the nuts on until they just seat. Then finish the tightening with a torque wrench, making sure I get movement before the torque wrench clicks.

I do that to insure the lug nuts aren't cross threaded, that the wheel seats firmly, and the right amount of torque is applied. I have the torque spec written on a piece of masking tape next to the vehicle tire placard.
 
My procedure, starting with the car in the air:


1. Hand-tighten all bolts

2a. Front lug bolts: Tighten with socket wrench, as much as possible with wheels spinning freely
2b. Rear lug bolts: Apply e-brake and tighten bolts with torque wrench

3. Lower car and torque front lug bolts to spec

4. After an hour or two of driving, re-check torque on all bolts


I do all of the above with star pattern.
 
1 - Thread the lug nuts on by hand

2 - Lightly zip them down with my impact, until they make contact with the seat, crossing the center after each lug nut. (opposing sides)

3 - Following the same pattern, tighten them with my impact turned down. (It has 650 lb/ft of torque.)

4 - With the vehicle on the ground (off the jack stand), using a 4-way wrench, make sure they are torqued down.
 
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1. Put the lug nuts on by hand as tight as i can.
2. Use a torque wrench.
3. Drive away hoping I put them all back on.
 
1. Screw the lugbolts in by hand, but with the use of a deep socket since I wouldn't be able to reach them with bare hands on my rims.

2. Tighten a bit with lug wrench.

3. Lower the car.

4. Tighten with torque wrench to spec.


By the way, when I read the thread title, I thought this was going to be about installing tires on rims. I'd call this wheel installation, where wheel = tire on a rim, alas, I know different people call it differently.
 
Wheel in the air, start nuts by hand, spin them down with the cross wrench until lug nuts are bottomed out and the wheel is fully seated on the hub.

Drop the car and torque them down.

No air tools in the javaContour garage.
 
Get them started, buzz them down (i have a mini 18V cordless that puts out 140ft lbs max.

lower the car and torque them.
 
1. Mount and thread by hand.
2. zip on with 200lb impact (Stop once they bottom)
3. finish off with torque wrench.
 
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At work, hand thread, then torque stick. Then lower vehicle till tires touch, so can use a torque wrench, then lower vehicle all the way.

At home, I don't have air tools, so I thread by hand with a socket and use a ratchet or breaker to snug up and seat, then lower and torque.
 
Originally Posted By: Coprolite
Doog and Racer, how tight is your final spec?


The last set I installed were finished @ 80-85 ft*lbs


95 ft-lbs for both my Neon and T&C. Although, now that I look it up, the both are supposed to be a little higher at 100 ft-lb per the FSM and OM, respectively. (I don't have a FSM for the van yet)
 
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