Your Method of Tire Installation

[AmishFury]

where i work

hand tighten (often using the torque stick to assist in the hand tightening)

torque stick+impact gun in a star pattern

lower car

torque down with torque wrench

second person with second torque wrench for QC

drive car in figure 8s in lot

recheck torque

 

[Ken2]

I don't want the lugs overtightened nor tightened unevenly.

I tighten lightly with the torque stick and reduced air pressure to the impact wrench, then hand tighten with the torque wrench being sure each nut turns before the desired torque is reached. My torque stick will easily overtighten the nuts if I bang it up hard.

Desired torque depends on the diameter of the studs, the finish on the studs, the number of threads per inch (or millimeters per thread), and any lube on the threads. Check the owner's manual or a listing of recommended torque. Lubed threads, including antiseize, need the twisting force (torque) reduced. Reducing the friction of the threads and nut face can cause more pulling force on the stud than it was designed for. Stretched or broken studs can result.

 

[durallymax]

Thread the nut on a couple turns

Impact with torque stick in pattern for lugs.

Torque with torque wrench.

Retorque in 100 miles.

When I worked in a tire shop we usually torqued them still on the lift by just holding the tire. This sped up the process as there were usually 2-3 guys working on each car.

I have different sticks for different vehicles but for our cars they are all 90, pickups are all 140 and semis are all 480. Most have a range and those are the numbers I picked.

 

[The Critic]

Originally Posted By: Ken2
My torque stick will easily overtighten the nuts if I bang it up hard.


Is yours a torque limiting extension, or is it an actual torque stick with a built-in socket on the end?

I think the ones with a built-in socket are far less susceptible to overtightening, which is why Ford selected them for their dealers.

 

[Shannow]

While the wheel is in the air, seat the nuts "jam" tight, the point at which spinning the wheel brace stops.

Lower wheel, then lean on the brace an appropriate amount.

 

[rjundi]

When I read this thread subject I think of the Redneck or third world installation methods of using ether/gasoline to mount a tire to a rim.

 

[CapriRacer]

Just an FYI on Torque Sticks:

The Tire Industry Association (TIA) conducted a study shortly after Torque Sticks came out. They used a low torque impact gun and a high torque one. The result was that the high powered gun applied more torque on the nut - and exceeded the rating of the stick.

Their conclusion was that while the torque stick itself wasn't accurate, it at least limited the amount of torque applied.

I don't they ever published the result

 

[durallymax]

Originally Posted By: rjundi
When I read this thread subject I think of the Redneck or third world installation methods of using ether/gasoline to mount a tire to a rim.


While more common in those areas, when in the field without tools you have to do what is needed.

Using starting fluid is scary to some people but if you think about it, if done right it is not incredibly dangerous. Using the appropriate amount of starting fluid, an air hose with remote valve and a long rod to ignite it helps a lot. The only issue I seem to have when doing them this way are valve core issues down the road.

We have a cheetah now, but before then I did truck tires this way. Only had to do it on recaps though, virgins all seated right away.

 

[01rangerxl]

1. Put wheel on hub and hand tighten lug nuts.

2. With wheel off the ground, tighten lug nuts in crisscross pattern with OE lug wrench.

3. With wheel on ground, crank that [censored] down with the OE lug wrench, again in crisscross pattern. Done.

Never stripped a lug nut, never tightened it so much I had difficulty the next time, never lost a lug nut. Definitely not the most precise method and will not work on all vehicles, but it works for a junky old Ford truck.

 

[Hokiefyd]

Originally Posted By: dishdude
1. Start threading by hand
2. Cordless drill/driver to complete (I don't own any air tools)
3. Lower car
4. Torque wrench to specs


This is exactly what I do.

 

[WhyMe]

i put wheel on, then nuts or bolts and hand tighten with breaker bar. lower and final tight with torque wrench.

this work great for hub centric wheels. My steelies with snow would not work due the wheel being non hub cemtric. if i tighten them on the ground, they would shake like crazy driving.

The cure was to tighten them up while the tire was still in the air.

 

[jdawg89]

Start by hand
Use 4 way lug wrench to snug
Put on ground
Tighten the [censored] out of them with 4 way.
Recheck in 50 miles

 

[R2d2]

Hand tighten.
Lower the car
Torque to spec..star pattern

Recheck using torque wrench a week later.

 

[FZ1]

My preferred method is drive to DT where I bought the tires and let them do all that.

 

[Grebbler]

This has always worked for me...

Purchase a nice set of aluminum wheels on Craigslist.
Locate the tire iron in the trunk under the 12 industrial size bags of kitty litter you just bought.
Remove plastic wheel cover, that has been rattling the last 27,000 miles, by twisting off the fake lug nuts molded into the cover.
Yank cover in frustration and find that it snaps onto the wheel.
Go locate your big socket set when tire iron fits none of the 4 sizes of lug nuts on the wheel.
[censored] the last impact wielding Tire Jockey to the lowest Hells while you try to loosen the lugs.
Go to Sears and replace Harbor Freight sockets with something that contains actual metal molecules. Stop at CVS for the knuckle bandages.
Locate jack mounted on front fender next to the big hole caused by road salt.
Jump and cuss because the scissor jack that came on your beater is a rusted lump.
Squirt jack with PB Blaster and have lunch.
Chock the wheels with the petrified Krispy Kremes you found in the trunk near the tire iron.
Locate spot for jack and crank the small handle that wants to twist in every other direction than in a circle.
Crank lustily in the opposite direction when jack comes up through the floor board.
Locate a new jacking point that doesn't give under finger pressure and jack the vehicle until the wheel is an inch off the ground and jump to the side as cars wobbles.
Remove the wheel using a large hammer.
Replace wheel with one of your new ones.
Jack up vehicle some more as for some reason the same size tire is taller when you go to put it back on.
Hand tighten all the lugs until they are snug.
Using your sockets, incrementally tighten the lugs in a star pattern until you are blue in the face and notice that you have 6 lug wheels, then tighten the other three in the same fashion.
Put duct tape over the damage on the wheel covers so no one will notice and reinstall.
Kick wheel cover to get it to stay on an aluminum wheel that don't use one and vehicle will fall off the jack.
Repeat process for the remaining wheels.
Go for a test drive on the freeway and notice that a wheel that looks just like yours is passing you in the left lane because those nifty aluminum mags wheels you just bought have metric lug spacing and your axles do not.
Remove license plates from vehicle and call a friend to come get you and take you to a bar.