Would you replace at 4/32nds ?

and who knows what you can get out in the middle of nowhere, vs being able to research and get the tires you want/ fit the needs of the vehicle.
A highlander isn’t exactly an uncommon car. The tire size is going to be common. I was able to find an actually uncommon old obsolete size tire, right off the I-15, last year when driving that road, from my phone, no issues.



How old are these tires and how many miles do they have on them?!?
 
A highlander isn’t exactly an uncommon car. The tire size is going to be common. I was able to find an actually uncommon old obsolete size tire, right off the I-15, last year when driving that road, from my phone, no issues.



How old are these tires and how many miles do they have on them?!?
Tires are OEM-2 years old with 25,000 miles on them. Snipes are gone-edges are worn-even on the rear tires. I assume 4-wheel alignment out of spec. No traction on wet pavement.
 
Tires are OEM-2 years old with 25,000 miles on them. Snipes are gone-edges are worn-even on the rear tires. I assume 4-wheel alignment out of spec. No traction on wet pavement.
Something is way wrong with the vehicle then. As much as people trash OEM tires, they are t that bad, and have always provided long service for us. I’m guessing they are OE spec Michelin?

My MIL’s two highlanders do better than that in severe service and terrain, which actually chunks tires (see tire tread chunking thread). Yet they last longer and still pull up extremely steep wet inclines.
 
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Something is way wrong with the vehicle then. As much as people trash OEM tires, they are t that bad, and have always provided long service for us. I’m guessing they are OE spec Michelin?

My MIL’s two highlanders do better than that in severe service and terrain, which actually chunks tires (see tire tread chunking thread). Yet they last longer and still pull up extremely steep wet inclines.
They are OEM Bridgestone Open Country. None of their characteristics make them great tires. We can disagree-some OEM tires are pure garbage-with one or two attributes that the manufacturer wants-and everything else doesn't matter.
 
My current summers have a wear bar at 2/32 ( 1/16) and the wear bar for my winter tires are at 4/32 ( 1/8). Some will keep the winter tires on and wear them down to 1/16.

Others will decide what’s important in terms of safety. What’s safe for some isn’t acceptable for others.
 
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^^^^^Put a couple or three extra psi in them. It will help them run a touch cooler across the desert. Or you could go west over the Rockies and go south, on one of Californy's north-south roads. Just thinkin'
FWIW - the Rockies are well east of SLC. I-15 as posted is the only sensible route.

OP: How many miles will you accumulate on the tires before you leave?
 
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^^^^^Put a couple or three extra psi in them. It will help them run a touch cooler across the desert.
I was going to say the same thing. You beat me to it. I always run at least 40 PSI in all my vehicles out here in the warmer weather. The less sidewall flex you have, the less heat you will generate. Especially at high speed.

Maintaining a good PSI out here will guarantee a far safer ride than tread depth. This is also much easier on newer vehicles that have TPMS right on the dash. You know what you have with the click of a button.

Age is a false flag here as well. If a car, boat, or RV is parked in a garage, the age of the tire is far less concerning, than if it's parked outside in direct sunlight. The intense UV light out here can destroy tires very quickly.

I'm always amazed at how many people here have 3 car, boat deep garages, but still park their new to newer cars outside, because they have all 3 stalls of their entire garage packed to the doors with crap.

And if most had a huge garage sale and got rid of it, they would only get a small fraction of what one of their vehicles is worth.
 
They are OEM Bridgestone Open Country. None of their characteristics make them great tires. We can disagree-some OEM tires are pure garbage-with one or two attributes that the manufacturer wants-and everything else doesn't matter.

I see the problem right here.... 300 A A. They're worn out. Shame on Toyota for doing this.

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4/32nds, quarter rule/guide, description in post #23 and long trip, count me in as replace before trip.

That said, if 2/32nd left till wear bars more important, your call.
 
IIRC thinner tread squirms less, in theory less heat generation.
On clean dry pavement they also have more grip. Just slow down if safe or stop in heavy rain if it gets to the point of hydroplaning as you know there a bunch of others speeding around on 2/32 or less tires.... We don't do road trips on tight schedules anymore, so stopping for 20 minutes to watch a storm in a new place isn't really a problem, more like a chance to see something new.
 
Yep. Years ago after a week in the Keys I walked out to the parking lot Sunday morning getting ready for the 10 hour drive home, to find a flat tire. I had a full size spare, so with a 10 minute or so delay, we were off as expected. Why I will never own a car without a full size spare tire.

Just made me think, almost nothing I drive has a spare. Not even a place for one on many (most?) cab and chassis trucks.

Considering driving the Dalton in my 5500 truck to work vs flying this summer, guess I'd need to buy a spare.
Was going to throw the camp shack from my Unimog on it and make it a couple day camping trip with the dog.
 
The rule in BC, which is no newby when is comes to winter driving is 3.5 mm ( just over 4/32 or 1/8 inch of thread). The summer requirement for the wear bar is 2/32. The cops can write a ticket based on those numbers.

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