Would you continue using Mannol?

Gotcha. It “meets/exceeds” and isn’t formally approved. I’d still use it on a car out of warranty. I won’t use hpl on my new car for the same reason. I doubt I’d ever have an oil related failure but don’t wanna tangle with a manufacturer if I did.
The big no no is that they printed missleading and contradictory specs on their products as you can find in this tread. For an example they claim to have an low saps and mid saps oil in the same bottle. There is also examples to find where tests has proven their oils and brakefluids not meets the specs they claim to have.
Its up to you but I dont support a company like SCT Mannol with buying products from them.
 
it is true that some of SCT products are problematic like Its DOT 4 boiling point. However, there are many other products that meet the standard. I used its Evaporator cleaner and clean as well as Liquimoly product that cost 2x more.
For oil, I have been using 7722 VW 508 509 and 7918 API SP for many years and they perform just fine, no oil consumption, and sound and drive as smooth as TGMO, Ravenol VSE, Aral,or Castrol Edge I used. Only with Ravenol VSE PAO oil I am comfortable in using it for 10k miles anyway.
For 5 k miles interval, Mannol and Addinol have the best price per performance.
 
Mannol is just a packager, not a producer, so mannol has no way of knowing the actual quality of the production.

And since I assume mm has entered into purchase agreements, the cost remains fixed for mannol but not for the producer: variations in raw material costs mean that the manufacturer will take some liberties.

Mannol is typically an empty shell that designs cans while wondering what labels could be printed on them so as not to get caught out in the event of legal problems.

In France we have another brand like mannol : dllub.

The difference is that Dllub goes even further: there is just a label stuck on standard cans. And there is no way of knowing whether Dllub carries out quality control for each statement that is printed on the label, like mannol.
 
I´ve used about 10L of their Legend+ Ester 0w40, no complaints at all about the performance of that oil, especially not considering what i payed for it back then.
Today, after being on the Russian oil club site and seing just how much they lie about the contents of them, and also that many of them are so high in calcium(almost 4200ppm for the Extreme 5W40) it may actually damage engines from it acting antagonistically with the ZDDP additives and increase the wear significantly.
That´s the reason API for the SN+ and SP cut the calcium levels in half compaired to the SN too, today with our ultra low sulphur fuels, all that calcium isn´t needed anymore and they found that by decreasing the amounts of it not only is LSPI risk lowered and sulphate ash goes down, but it actually improves the wear results.

They can be used, but considering their base level quality, i would only use it again if i got them for an absolute steal of a price.
 
I'm pretty sure we have extensive discussions about the positives and negatives of each company. It's fine knowing the back story of a company and the risks that come with it. It's up to you to decide where you want to cut corners. And if you ask me, in my case (daily driver cars), I definitely do not require my oil to be of the absolute top grade per say based on my engine and usage of it. A medium to high "quality" oil is already surpassing what I require.

In the past years, I have been using over 6x 20 liter cans of Mannol MN7701-20 (5W30 API-SP) in BMW M54, N55 and B58 engines.
The M54's are frequently used on high speed autobahn. The N55 is an average daily and the B58 is a 550HP beast which usually runs on E85 fuel and enjoys autobahn runs and towing trailers a 1000km to Southern France.
I run all of them on Manoll MN7701-20 with an interval of ~20k km on the M54's and N55, and ~15k km on the B58.

While I am no oil expert at all and I have zero scientific proof to back this up, it is not possible to deny that this oil has worked great for me so far. All these engine are used at above average loads and have done so for a combined distance of over 300.000 km.
I have never noticed any difference in smell, color or viscosity between the cans.
So yeah, I really can't take statements like "I wouldn't run this in my mower" seriously. If you don't want to buy from this company from a moral of principal standpoint, that's up to you. Free country. However, How sure are you that we can't find any dirt on your favourite company?
 
I'm pretty sure we have extensive discussions about the positives and negatives of each company. It's fine knowing the back story of a company and the risks that come with it. It's up to you to decide where you want to cut corners. And if you ask me, in my case (daily driver cars), I definitely do not require my oil to be of the absolute top grade per say based on my engine and usage of it. A medium to high "quality" oil is already surpassing what I require.

In the past years, I have been using over 6x 20 liter cans of Mannol MN7701-20 (5W30 API-SP) in BMW M54, N55 and B58 engines.
The M54's are frequently used on high speed autobahn. The N55 is an average daily and the B58 is a 550HP beast which usually runs on E85 fuel and enjoys autobahn runs and towing trailers a 1000km to Southern France.
I run all of them on Manoll MN7701-20 with an interval of ~20k km on the M54's and N55, and ~15k km on the B58.

While I am no oil expert at all and I have zero scientific proof to back this up, it is not possible to deny that this oil has worked great for me so far. All these engine are used at above average loads and have done so for a combined distance of over 300.000 km.
I have never noticed any difference in smell, color or viscosity between the cans.
So yeah, I really can't take statements like "I wouldn't run this in my mower" seriously. If you don't want to buy from this company from a moral of principal standpoint, that's up to you. Free country. However, How sure are you that we can't find any dirt on your favourite company?
They work just fine, just that they are a basic level oil, so make sure you only pay basic level price for them.

The magic that makes engines last is to run short drain intervals, do that and you will be absolutely fine with any oil that meets the requirements.
Hell, even the grocery store chain Lidl here in the EU sells good oils at a steal of a price, i´m gonna buy 10L of it this week, 30$ for 5l!
 
I´ve used about 10L of their Legend+ Ester 0w40, no complaints at all about the performance of that oil, especially not considering what i payed for it back then.
Today, after being on the Russian oil club site and seing just how much they lie about the contents of them, and also that many of them are so high in calcium(almost 4200ppm for the Extreme 5W40) it may actually damage engines from it acting antagonistically with the ZDDP additives and increase the wear significantly.
That´s the reason API for the SN+ and SP cut the calcium levels in half compaired to the SN too, today with our ultra low sulphur fuels, all that calcium isn´t needed anymore and they found that by decreasing the amounts of it not only is LSPI risk lowered and sulphate ash goes down, but it actually improves the wear results.

They can be used, but considering their base level quality, i would only use it again if i got them for an absolute steal of a price.
So you'd risk damaging your engine if you can buy that oil cheaply enough?
 
I wouldn't use it if it were free. People need to understand you get what you pay for, although I also agree there's probably not much difference in performance between a good quality synthetic and a very expensive version of the same thing.

It's consistently burnt in my engines, even my lawnmower uses far more of it! The claims made by this company have been found to be fraudulent on numerous occasions, including for brake fluid. There's plenty of people who will buy any old cheap cxxp to put in their engines while declaring it to be 'good oil' on the basis they haven't broken down.
 
I'm pretty sure we have extensive discussions about the positives and negatives of each company. It's fine knowing the back story of a company and the risks that come with it. It's up to you to decide where you want to cut corners. And if you ask me, in my case (daily driver cars), I definitely do not require my oil to be of the absolute top grade per say based on my engine and usage of it. A medium to high "quality" oil is already surpassing what I require.

In the past years, I have been using over 6x 20 liter cans of Mannol MN7701-20 (5W30 API-SP) in BMW M54, N55 and B58 engines.
The M54's are frequently used on high speed autobahn. The N55 is an average daily and the B58 is a 550HP beast which usually runs on E85 fuel and enjoys autobahn runs and towing trailers a 1000km to Southern France.
I run all of them on Manoll MN7701-20 with an interval of ~20k km on the M54's and N55, and ~15k km on the B58.

While I am no oil expert at all and I have zero scientific proof to back this up, it is not possible to deny that this oil has worked great for me so far. All these engine are used at above average loads and have done so for a combined distance of over 300.000 km.
I have never noticed any difference in smell, color or viscosity between the cans.
So yeah, I really can't take statements like "I wouldn't run this in my mower" seriously. If you don't want to buy from this company from a moral of principal standpoint, that's up to you. Free country. However, How sure are you that we can't find any dirt on your favourite company?
Mannol isn't a 'medium quality oil' far from it IMO
 
I don't use it personally, but if I had a worthless old car that consumed oil almost as quickly as it did fuel and I could get it cheap I would consider it.
 
I don't use it personally, but if I had a worthless old car that consumed oil almost as quickly as it did fuel and I could get it cheap I would consider it.
I'd be getting a new car TBH, But yeah I know what you mean. So would I if it was a litre every 500 miles or something like that. But it's not even that cheap now anyway, and it's certainly not going in any of my cars or equipment.
 
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