Worn out actuator diagnosis? Resealing vapor barrier on car door

Joined
Oct 21, 2015
Messages
399
Location
Colorado
Before I get into a job requiring resealing the vapor barrier, let me ask first of all if I'm on the right track with this job even requiring it.....

The used 2005 Highlander I got has a "sticking" driver door lock. I can lock and unlock using the key, but when I use the rocker switch on the door panel, the door doesn't fully lock or unlock (same with remote key fob). All other doors lock and unlock fully using the rocker switch or key fob. YouTube videos are pointing me to a worn out actuator. It looks like a tedious, yet not terribly difficult job. Honestly, the part that worries me most is getting the vapor barrier resealed again. It seems folks do one of four things (1) press the plastic against the old butyl sealant and call it good; (2) supplement with pieces of duct tape here and there; (3) use a butyl peel and stick tape; (4) completely replace the vapor barrier using heavy duty plastic from places like Home Depot or kits available on-line.

Any input on best practice would be appreciated.
 
Definitely sounds like your actuator. If you can press the button several times in a row and it slowly makes it - that's a sign its bad as well.

99% of the time the butyl will reseal just fine. If not you can just tape it or caulk it back into position and be fine.
 
I do 1 & 2.

Expect some nice sharp metal inside the door. Don't let it cut you to ribbons.
 
In the Euro world of faulty window regulators etc, it was common to see water leaking after someone removed the vapor barrier. I've found that heating up the existing butyl tape with a heat gun helped minimize damage during removal, and reheating also really helped it reseal properly
 
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