Before I get into a job requiring resealing the vapor barrier, let me ask first of all if I'm on the right track with this job even requiring it.....
The used 2005 Highlander I got has a "sticking" driver door lock. I can lock and unlock using the key, but when I use the rocker switch on the door panel, the door doesn't fully lock or unlock (same with remote key fob). All other doors lock and unlock fully using the rocker switch or key fob. YouTube videos are pointing me to a worn out actuator. It looks like a tedious, yet not terribly difficult job. Honestly, the part that worries me most is getting the vapor barrier resealed again. It seems folks do one of four things (1) press the plastic against the old butyl sealant and call it good; (2) supplement with pieces of duct tape here and there; (3) use a butyl peel and stick tape; (4) completely replace the vapor barrier using heavy duty plastic from places like Home Depot or kits available on-line.
Any input on best practice would be appreciated.
The used 2005 Highlander I got has a "sticking" driver door lock. I can lock and unlock using the key, but when I use the rocker switch on the door panel, the door doesn't fully lock or unlock (same with remote key fob). All other doors lock and unlock fully using the rocker switch or key fob. YouTube videos are pointing me to a worn out actuator. It looks like a tedious, yet not terribly difficult job. Honestly, the part that worries me most is getting the vapor barrier resealed again. It seems folks do one of four things (1) press the plastic against the old butyl sealant and call it good; (2) supplement with pieces of duct tape here and there; (3) use a butyl peel and stick tape; (4) completely replace the vapor barrier using heavy duty plastic from places like Home Depot or kits available on-line.
Any input on best practice would be appreciated.