Woolwax/Fluid Film/Wax cavity protection...which is best for an old car?

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Canada, eh?
After doing considerable research on the topic, I think I'd like to prevent any further damage on my 30 year old summer ride.
I've had the most of the rust areas replaced with new metal, but for the remaining areas I'm convinced that a generous coat of "protectant" is what it really needs (wheel wells, inner fenders , accessible areas of the rockers etc.)

So, with that in mind I've decided to invest in getting this done. A friend of mine had recommended this product:
https://www.carworx.net/products/wax-cavity-protection
Anyone have experience with it? is it better or worse (or just a different approach than using woolwax/fluid film?

thanks in advance
 
I don't have any first-hand experience with any of the following products, but since I a 4WD truck, I've started researching the topic of rust prevention. Here's what I have gathered...

"How do I Protect My Truck from Road Brine?" - https://nhoilundercoating.com/ - 603-491-9012 - [email protected] - MOST undercoating do NOT displace moisture, but this product DOES!

5 Things you should know before you decide which is the best Oil to use for Undercutting
In short, not all undercoatings are created equal.
There are many, many brands and varieties of undercoating: NH Oil Undercoating ® Rustoleum, 3M, Eastwood, Bar and Chain Oil, Used Motor oil, etc. etc. finding a product that engineered the correct application will play a role on whether it actually works??
The problem is, depending upon the circumstance and the degree to which rust is present on a vehicle’s underbody, the results greatly vary, especially after months and months of unpredictable weather.
Most of these brands (Rustoleum, 3M, Eastwood POR-15) produce rubberized versions of undercoating in a can. These types of coatings have a dried film that is often quite hard, arid, and brittle.
They were not engineered to displace moisture. As a result, you need to apply only to a clean, rust-free surface. Encapsulating rust will not slow it down. In fact, sometimes, the trapped air and moisture may even contribute to rust formation and accelerating. Slightly disguises the problem at best.

Do you have pre-existing rust?
If so, then you should avoid wax, paint, and rubberized products. These products only trap moisture below the surface, allowing oxidation to continue. Oil-based rustproofing will penetrate through the rust down to the good metal, displace moisture while removing oxygen, and has long been a home remedy for rust formation. Take either moisture or oxygen out of the equation, and oxidation cannot occur. Use a petroleum-based product with rust inhibitors containing no solvents. In fact, the NH Oil Undercoating product is environmentally safe, contains no toxins, is non-flammable. Won’t swell the rubber pushing seals or gaskets found on your vehicle’s undercarriage. Will creep and migrate into the spot welds seams and folds of the body cavities.

"What Is The Best Salt Eliminator For Your Vehicle?" -

Noxudol - "Noxudol 900 for the under body and Noxudol 700 for every inside panel. It makes fluid film look like a wannabee, seriously." - https://www.noxudolusa.com/shop/ - BITOG "Trav" says: "In a test over 3 years in the UK Noxudol 700 was the clear winner. As you say they can't test every one of these type of products but the best really stand out." - https://bit.ly/2PtVNbi
"2017 Undercarriage Surface Rust", "Paint it with chainsaw bar oil. Repeat once/mo for 3 months." - https://bit.ly/2Noh4Ag
Fluid Film - https://www.fluid-film.com/ & https://bit.ly/2KYj9zN
Krown "Industry-leading rust protection since 1986" - https://www.krown.com/en/passenger-vehicles/ , https://bit.ly/31V2lnw , https://bit.ly/2DcXX92
WoolWax - https://www.woolwaxusa.com/
"Any value in "fluid-filming" (or similar anti-corrosion treatment)?" - https://bit.ly/2mbCsNj

I hope this helps you!

:)

Ed
 
After doing considerable research on the topic, I think I'd like to prevent any further damage on my 30 year old summer ride.
I've had the most of the rust areas replaced with new metal, but for the remaining areas I'm convinced that a generous coat of "protectant" is what it really needs (wheel wells, inner fenders , accessible areas of the rockers etc.)

So, with that in mind I've decided to invest in getting this done. A friend of mine had recommended this product:
https://www.carworx.net/products/wax-cavity-protection
Anyone have experience with it? is it better or worse (or just a different approach than using woolwax/fluid film?

thanks in advance
I doubt you’ll get much on that product since it’s an unknown brand, based in Canada, with a marginally useful (that I can see) website.

More prevalent here is Amsoil HDMP, Boeshield T5, and the heavy cosmolene.

The thing with woolwax and fluid film is that they will wash off. But in spots where they wont, they do have very good creeping and staying power, which a wax that hardens will not. Some waxes claim to heal, but that’s dubious as it ages. Still needs some solvent.

I like the creeping oils and in some cases the lanolin stuff. Just realize it will wash off where it’s exposed to tire spray.
 
After doing considerable research on the topic, I think I'd like to prevent any further damage on my 30 year old summer ride.
I've had the most of the rust areas replaced with new metal, but for the remaining areas I'm convinced that a generous coat of "protectant" is what it really needs (wheel wells, inner fenders , accessible areas of the rockers etc.)

So, with that in mind I've decided to invest in getting this done. A friend of mine had recommended this product:
https://www.carworx.net/products/wax-cavity-protection
Anyone have experience with it? is it better or worse (or just a different approach than using woolwax/fluid film?

thanks in advance
Some notes. Currently I would use Fluid Film (don't know about Noxudol) inside problem areas which are hard to get to, but I would do the repair first if possible because it's going to interfere with adhesion of repairs like Bondo, paint, etc. Or I would use it and then really prep the area but it's tough because fluid film can creep FEET away.

When doing Bondo repairs I would thoroughly prep the metal, prime it and paint it with a good protective matte coating. The can should have some recommendations. I would not use Bondo on bare metal because it doesn't guard against continued corrosion enough in my opinion.

Also, if repairing an area that has clearly rusted through from the inside because of a leak, condensation, etc. then repairing the area will not prevent continued moisture and corrosion in the area unless you identify the source or do something to address internal protection. Windows commonly leak. For that reason, personally I would attempt to drill a hole at the bottom, obscured, being careful about the angle and position of it so it doesn't collect spray. Some bicycles used to have open bottom brackets for the same reason.

Protectants- Cosmoline type oils and waxy sprays-
fluid film (thin, self healing, stays oily, very penetrating)
Amsoil, Boeshield and others (dry waxy film Cosmoline type, resists washing, does not attract dirt)


Fireball tool on protectants-
Sta-Bil rust stopper / Minwax finishing paste


Rust removal. Start with a heavy steel rotary wire brush (*not stainless or brass* if welding).

Krud Kutter for rust removal (pricey. evapo rust is a cheaper diluted version)
Molasses is surprisingly good. Takes some time. likewise apple cider vinegar. The natural products contain acid buffers which prevent damaging the metal.
 
I recently treated the underside of our Dacia with a product called Lanogaurd which I think is almost identical to Woolwax and I've had previous experience of Krown.

The Lanolin based products are more durable but in my opinion don't seem to creep as well as the oil based products. However, I find the lanolin based products stay tacky and sticky and attract a lot more dirt then the oil based products like Krown. BUT the dirt rinses off with ease at low pressure.
 
I’ve found HDMP to work marginally well here in the salt belt. Fluid film works very well, especially on cavities where wash-out won’t be a factor. My 2011 gets a yearly treatment and is driven year round with minimal winter washes. It is 99.9% rust free with its first spot of surface rust found in a fender lip this year. Rockers are prestine still.

I have found it works well on on existing rust as well. Using it on rusty tools and after a few weeks the old rust seems to come off a bit (not like a rust remover or anything). It’s my go-to for a LOT from automotive rust protection to tools to fork stanchions. I even wipe my guns down with it (not internals).
 
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