Will Thinner Oils Damage Your Engine?

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If VVT, VCT, etc didn't work well with thicker oil, then manufacturers would recommend thicker oil for any use conditions. And parts clearances like journal bearings have been pretty much constant for decades, so that's not the driver. The driver for thinner oils is CAFE.
These vehicles that generate a CEL due to thicker oil do not do this because the engine is unable to tolerate the oil, but instead it is a component that is purposely designed not to do so (or at least flag an error). There is no reason in the world the component could not be designed to operate properly with a higher viscosity oil, and may actually do so even as-is. It is being chosen to generate an error, whether factual or not.
 
xW-20 or less = "Fine for benign" 😄

"Doesn't matter" = it didn't blow up while I owned it. ;)
Now you're just being silly. Only if the starting temperature is below what is appropriate for the winter rating and the oil cannot be pumped.
No. It's just not about starting temps. Some engine tolerance are so tight they can't handle 20W50.
 
Exactly what my BMW M3 V8 S65 engine did when BMW recommended 10W60 for that engine.
Lol, now you're really getting silly. Confusing deficient mechanical design with oil grade.

State the following: "My BMW S65 broke because it was designed for a lower viscosity oil than what I used".

I almost made myself laugh typing that.
 
No. It's just not about starting temps. Some engine tolerance are so tight they can't handle 20W50.

Maybe Ford should say in the OM for guys who track thier cars to swap-out the main and rod bearing before using thicker oil. 😄
 
Does it have an oil temperature gauge that reads out a number, not just "Low-Normal-High". But yes, a very effective oil cooler would certainly help engines keep that MOFT up that specify a thinner viscosity.
But its funny approach if you spec xW20 first....and then put all sorts of oil coolers n'stuff to the point that it finaly works :)

Can we call that "an American approach"? :D
 
But its funny approach if you spec xW20 first....and then put all sorts of oil coolers n'stuff to the point that it finaly works :)

Can we call that "an American approach"? :D

Whatever it takes to get CAFE credits. :sneaky:
 
Reminds of good old days of thin vs. thick threads ... it was much easier to work on engines. When you dropped a wrench, it would fall to the ground and you didn't have to buy a new one. You could manually roll down the windows. Everything lasted longer. who needs a $1000 iPhone? :unsure:
 
Go Google and find the Ford Auatraila website and look at the OMs and what they spec for oil. I have, and have verified the spec 5W-30.
And, more interestingly, they were initially shipped and spec'd to Australia in the same way they were in the states, 5w20. Looking at the dates on the owners manual online for Ford Australia, it was sometime in 2016 when they made the change for the 5.0 Mustang oil to be 5w30 instead.

In this engines case, at least, the use of thicker oil should not be a problem, based upon Ford stating to drop the oil and fill with 20w50 for track use, then back to 5w20 (or 30 if the ecoboost) when you're done at the track. So it obviously works fine with a thicker grade.

The *only* thing i can think of that might not be fully ideal for "lazy/gentle" road use, is what's mentioned in that Penta(?) engine, where the engineer said that the thinner spec helps some valve guides or something, if it's never rev'd high. So *IF* the same is true in the Coyote engine, then making sure it's rev'd properly at some point during the drive will be a good idea.
 
0W20 at room temp is far thicker than 20W50 in a running engine, so, tell me again what the “tolerances” can’t handle?
Huh? I have no answer cuz that makes no sense. Lol

20w50 at 100c is around 18 cst
0w20 at 40c is around 40-45 cst

He is saying that 0w20 is more viscous at room temperature, than 20w50 is when its at operating temperature in an engine.
 
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