Why run a 0-20 instead of a 0-30 Oil?

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My new f150 specs 5w-30 also. The older one was 5w-20 and I never had an issue with it. My gut feeling is that when the EB is working hard towing it generates a ton of heat. Therefore the 5w-30 over the 20. So I think it is specified for the job it needs to do and not because [censored] said so.
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I've thought about switching the 3.7L in my 2005 Jeep KJ to 0W-20 even though it specs 5W-30. I currently run M1 0W-30. I tried to run one of the lightest 30 weights I could easily find.

My drive to work is about 10.5 miles and takes approx 18 minutes. With 2-4 minutes of warm-up time to get rid of the piston slap before leaving, that is 20-22 minutes of engine run time. I'm not sure if that is enough to get the oil to operating temp before arriving to work. Same for the drive home.

I wonder if the OW-20 would better serve my 3.7L than the 0W-30.

The same 3.7L that is in now in the KKs are spec'ed for 5W-20. So, I highly doubt it would be bad for my motor.

Who knows? I'm over-thinking this, but it is fun.
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Originally Posted By: 67Customs
I've thought about switching the 3.7L in my 2005 Jeep KJ to 0W-20 even though it specs 5W-30. I currently run M1 0W-30. I tried to run one of the lightest 30 weights I could easily find.

My drive to work is about 10.5 miles and takes approx 18 minutes. With 2-4 minutes of warm-up time to get rid of the piston slap before leaving, that is 20-22 minutes of engine run time. I'm not sure if that is enough to get the oil to operating temp before arriving to work. Same for the drive home.

I wonder if the OW-20 would better serve my 3.7L than the 0W-30.

The same 3.7L that is in now in the KKs are spec'ed for 5W-20. So, I highly doubt it would be bad for my motor.

Who knows? I'm over-thinking this, but it is fun.
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Try it out for 1 oci.
 
Originally Posted By: 67Customs
I've thought about switching the 3.7L in my 2005 Jeep KJ to 0W-20 even though it specs 5W-30. I currently run M1 0W-30. I tried to run one of the lightest 30 weights I could easily find.

My drive to work is about 10.5 miles and takes approx 18 minutes. With 2-4 minutes of warm-up time to get rid of the piston slap before leaving, that is 20-22 minutes of engine run time. I'm not sure if that is enough to get the oil to operating temp before arriving to work. Same for the drive home.

I wonder if the OW-20 would better serve my 3.7L than the 0W-30.

The same 3.7L that is in now in the KKs are spec'ed for 5W-20. So, I highly doubt it would be bad for my motor.

Who knows? I'm over-thinking this, but it is fun.
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Same scenario here with my RX. 5W30 recommended, but able to run 5W30,5W20 or 0W20. The thing is, it has had 5W30 its whole life so far. So going to a 0W20 just makes me too nervous.
 
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I have been reading the thick vs thin debate for years on BITOG. It seems like it is all opinion not fact

Seems like there would be some tests out there that would show that 5-20 and 0-20 oils protect as well or better than thicker oils,at least in some applications. If there are no tests out there why not?
 
Originally Posted By: JOD
Originally Posted By: 4ever4d
I really don't think that Caterham is pushing thin oils because he's a government plant trying to ruin our engines.....
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it's the ones you least suspect...
seriously, I discovered this forum when I bought my Freestyle about 4 years ago. It was spec'd for 5W20, and I'd never even hear of this grade! Local stores didn't carry it, and I had a long succession of euro cars, Volvo's and some other "V" brand that I've banished from memory. The thinnest oil I had used previously was 10W30 in my CRX in the dead of winter, and even that made me nervous.
Fuel economy is of zero concern WRT my oil selection. While oil viscosity may matter on the macro level for FE, on an individual level it's a minimal difference. I'd us 0W40 in a heartbeat if I thought it offered more protection. I learned enough on this site to realize that the thinnest suitable oil is going to make for the least amount of wear, and that's why I use it.

No I'm not a Gov't plant.
I'm against Gov't intervention generally and I think CAFE was/is the wrong approach. My position has been to raise taxes on gasoline in the States and let the market place sort things out as to who makes and ultimately buys the most fuel efficient vehicles. This accomplishes two things; lets the market place encourage the sale of more fuel efficient vehicles and reduces the US trade imbalance and deficit on imported oil particularly from politically unstable regions of the world.

Regarding my pushing light oil. Fuel economy is not a big concern of mine; power is, driveability is and minimizing wear is. I used to be a heavy oil guy years ago, running straight 50wt and 60wt oils in British bikes and 20W-50 and 5W-50 in my cars. So I'm very familiar with the perceived benefits of running heavy oil and the problems.
The sole benefit of heavy oil is maintaining an adequate viscosity when oil temp's are very high and you're hammering it.
So the question is, what oil temp's are necessary for any oil grade to acheive an optimum operational viscosity that will minimize engine wear? Even with a light 50wt like a GP III based 5W-50 you will need oil temp's of at least 130C to thin the oil out to an optimum viscosity for most engines. A 40wt, around 120-125C. A typical 5W-30, around 115C. A 20wt, 95C to 105C.
So unless you're routinely see these oils temp's for the grade you're running you're not benefiting in any way from the higher protection level that oil potentially has to offer. But what's worse is that you have to live with the numerous disadvantages of running the heavier than necessary oil.

Even the lightest 0W-20 oil you can buy is still too heavy until oil temp's of at least 80C is acheived. And most engines, even in the summer months don't see oil temp's over 95C.
 
Originally Posted By: Jeff_in_VABch
One good reason is that 0W20 shoots out like water during an oil change. No waiting for oil to drain.



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^^^^^
 
Originally Posted By: Jeff_in_VABch
One good reason is that 0W20 shoots out like water during an oil change. No waiting for oil to drain.



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Splitting hairs again, hey ? 0w20 versus 0w30.

Funny I always thought that.

You can increase the number to right to the w, but you cannot reduce the number to the right of the w.

You can reduce the number to the left of the W, but you cannot increase the number to left of the w.

Back to the 1st question "What does my owners manual recommend ?". This question should become a sticky.
 
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Originally Posted By: Jeff_in_VABch
One good reason is that 0W20 shoots out like water during an oil change. No waiting for oil to drain.

Funny but of course not true.

A 20wt is actually 8 times thicker than water at 100C.
A 30wt is about 10 times thicker than water at 100C.
And a 40wt 13-14 times thicker than water at 100C.

And if you can notice the difference between an 8cSt oil and a 10cSt oil let alone a 14cST oil you are a better man than me.
 
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