Why PU and M1 and not Amsoil?

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...waiting for Pablo to chime in.
 
Originally Posted By: Smokefan1977
No shipping cost, easy to get, and honestly nobody here can say amsoil protects and engine better then the 2 oil you mentioned. So why go through the hassle of obtaining it. M1 and PU have both been proven Extended drain performance aswell

OTC oil have caught up to many of the boutique oils

The only Amsoil oil worth buying anyway is the signature series. It's still to expensive IMO


+1, and after actually using the SS oil I'll pass. In two applications both were noisy using ASM and SSO.

If you plan on extending your OCI beyond the range of M1 EP then Amsoil Signature Series is probably the better choice. If not I'd save my $$ and look for sales and rebates on the two mentioned above. JMO
 
Apples and oranges.
IMHO, Amsoil's top line oils are formulated primarily to hold up for very long drain intervals while providing low wear.
They seem to do this very well.
Most of us have no interest in extended drain intervals, since most of us don't drive enough miles in any given car that 5-6K oil changes are a hassle.
You yourself have written that you'll stick with 5K drains.
Therefore, the expense of something like SSO is not warranted.
For most of us, off the rack PU or M1 exceeds our needs for the drain intervals we typically use.
There are also flavors of both of these oils that do meet long drain manufacturers' standards.
M1 0W-40 is widely available, for example, although I've never seen any SOPUS Euro blend syn on a shelf anywhere, even though such oils exist or have existed as QSUD, QHP, PP and PU.
It isn't that people here prefer M1 or PP or PU over Amsoil, it's that price and availability make these oils the obvious choice.
M1 0W-20 would be a good choice for you, and M1 is often found on sale.
 
Originally Posted By: aquariuscsm
... If Amsoil could be found on the shelf next to the M1 and Synpower,I`d use Amsoil exclusively.


If you looked up on yellow pages.com, the Amsoil dealer in your town, he/she would bring it to your house. I know, Its a little more effort. My local Honda Motor Cycle dealer sells Amsoil right next to M1, Motul and the Honda syrup. The Amsoil is about $1.00 more than the M1. I'll bet you have some small retailers like that around.
 
Originally Posted By: fdcg27
Apples and oranges.
You yourself have written that you'll stick with 5K drains.



I was looking for an oil that could stand up to severe service and remain in the sump for 1 year in my work van. Amsoil is supposed to be "the best" for extended drains and 1 year intervals, as long as you meet their requirements. It's a good oil no doubt. I would not get anywhere near the miles that Amsoil is formulated to hold up for, so 1 year made sense. Plus its Amsoil and gets rave reviews here and I felt I'd have that extra margin of protection, from their best, for the heavy short hops and SS the vehicle sees.

Noise was why I dumped it. I read all kinds of stories that engine noise doesn't matter, etc. Funny though when someone goes out to buy a used car one of the first things any good mechanic checks is for noise. I'm sure flames are coming, I can take it.! I can easily do a year on PP, Edge or M1 and not have the noise. I'll save cash too. YMMV
 
Did you use this in your Aerostar?
Ours never seemed picky about oil, but then I never used SSO in it.
I miss the old thing.
An honest, reliable and useful vehicle.
Nothing fancy, fast or exciting, but it did everything we ever needed it to do without complaint.
 
all very good reply`s, Thank you.
I have been a prefered customer of Amsoil in the past and can refire my membership at any time, so a little savings there. No need to look for a dealer nearby. There are a few confusing factors here that are complicating the oil types.
Toyota mandates SN 0w20, and this Toyota oil has been talked about here with great reviews and UOA`s. Their OCI is 10K. Since towing is a factor and short trips VS less longer trips I feel more comfortable with the 5K oci. I`m just as concerned as when the vehicle sits and not run bc it would most likely take a year to drive 10K. As mentioned before I would have loved to stock the Toyota oil, but distance and cost per case kinda killed that. The manufactures 2 year/25K free service will be done at their recommended OCI`s and I`ll do the in between at 5K. I`d rather not run a dino oil and switch back and forth every time the dealer installs the Toy SN 0w20. One of the issues here is that the "stores" do not maintain product on the shelf, and several trips are wasted when looking, very frustrating. So it really is a matter of convenience, selecting a "best" oil that is for the new "G" series V6 in the FJ. At this point I have no clue if oil type brand affects warranty and how strict Toyota is with their new engine based on their past history with sludge related issues. personally I don`t know anyone who lost a Toyota engine and it is more likely user error. I heard a few Lexus dealers using QS, and a few Toy dealers using M1 as a suitable replacement to SN, but I also hear that Toyota is aggressively stocking cases of the their new SN... for what that`s worth...
as far as noise: I can say Ive tried many oil brands in the course of driving my 2.5L Altima, the engine is noisy regardless of oil brand. I`ve just accepted it. The FJ is somewhat noisy upon start up from being cold, VVT, adjusters and all that, once warm, it is quiet as a church mouse. I do remember the Ford 4.6/ V8 also being noisey in both the CVPI and the E250 using any 5w20 brand, nature of the beast I suppose. But I did prefer to use Motorcraft oil.
I will look out for the products you guys mentioned, and thanks for the tip about Amazon, never thought to purchase oil from them...

Amsoil gear fluids, yes!!! we even mix the gear lube with synthetic grease to create a "slurry" for use in the jet pumps in our skis...
Some people get lucky with finding M! gear lube on the shelf, some not I know my buddy even complains about the stores near him and the cost of M1 gear.

sadly: I did read about a few FJ owners using the top tier Amsoil and that had less than stellar UOA from Blackstone and were disappointed in the results hence leading to a brand change... several different scenario`s tho, those guys wheel in the dirt and desert for better than 10K-15K before OCI... which I think has affected the results. right there would indicate a sooner OCI IMHO...

Thanks for all the tips and advice!
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Noise is subjective. Most people report quieter engines with Amsoil, some report no change, and one or two say the noise level is higher. I've never seen anyone have dB reading across a range of frequencies.

Prices are easily skewed. People here have added Amsoil MSRP, tax and shipping and compared that to a one time only discontinued oil sale and didn't even include tax. People see and sometimes calculate the outcome they desire. I can say Amsoil OE and XL are easily competitive, and frankly way cheaper than any M1 within a 30 mile radius of my house. I liked it better in the original BITOG days. Bob actually knew this! He knew this price stuff would be mostly skewed poop.

As for the new Toyota engines - Amsoil OE and XL 0W-20 meet all the requirements necessary to avoid even the most biased BITOG warranty watcher.

Use Amsoil if you like it. Amsoil certainly is not for every situation. Pennzoil and M1 make some great products. To have Amsoil compared to the top is always good. Use what you like and don't let people talk you out of a product because of their own bias. Avoid the Amsoil haters. Too many happy customers to have me think negative thoughts.
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Originally Posted By: fdcg27
Did you use this in your Aerostar?
Ours never seemed picky about oil, but then I never used SSO in it.
I miss the old thing.
An honest, reliable and useful vehicle.
Nothing fancy, fast or exciting, but it did everything we ever needed it to do without complaint.


No the Aerostar is my beater, I use whatever I can find on sale and run it 5,000 miles. It has about 205,000 miles on it, and NY roads and rot are taking their toll on it. Its a shame it runs well, still has the original transmission in it. The oil pan is rotted and I'm not about to replace it. I cobbled some lead flashing over the rotted section, but it still is leaking, very slowly. All I need is until spring, and I'll either sell it very cheap or junk it.

I used SSO in the E-150 and ASM in the 08 Liberty.
 
Originally Posted By: Pablo
Noise is subjective. Most people report quieter engines with Amsoil, some report no change, and one or two say the noise level is higher. I've never seen anyone have dB reading across a range of frequencies.

Prices are easily skewed. People here have added Amsoil MSRP, tax and shipping and compared that to a one time only discontinued oil sale and didn't even include tax. People see and sometimes calculate the outcome they desire. I can say Amsoil OE and XL are easily competitive, and frankly way cheaper than any M1 within a 30 mile radius of my house. I liked it better in the original BITOG days. Bob actually knew this! He knew this price stuff would be mostly skewed poop.

As for the new Toyota engines - Amsoil OE and XL 0W-20 meet all the requirements necessary to avoid even the most biased BITOG warranty watcher.

Use Amsoil if you like it. Amsoil certainly is not for every situation. Pennzoil and M1 make some great products. To have Amsoil compared to the top is always good. Use what you like and don't let people talk you out of a product because of their own bias. Avoid the Amsoil haters. Too many happy customers to have me think negative thoughts.
grin2.gif



Spoken like a true salesman! Back in 2001 I was a salesman for Kia, they were considered by many cheap throw away cars. I thought they were garbage. [Boy have times changed.] You know what? When I got my paycheck each week, my bonus at the end of the month, and spin $$, they were the greatest vehicles on 4 wheels! Three months later I was the #1 Kia salesman in the North East USA. LOL


Amsoil is a fine product, not so fine for me though. I don't need a machine to calculate noise levels, a simple oil change resolved it.
 
Originally Posted By: Pablo
Noise is subjective. Most people report quieter engines with Amsoil, some report no change, and one or two say the noise level is higher. I've never seen anyone have dB reading across a range of frequencies.

Prices are easily skewed. People here have added Amsoil MSRP, tax and shipping and compared that to a one time only discontinued oil sale and didn't even include tax. People see and sometimes calculate the outcome they desire. I can say Amsoil OE and XL are easily competitive, and frankly way cheaper than any M1 within a 30 mile radius of my house. I liked it better in the original BITOG days. Bob actually knew this! He knew this price stuff would be mostly skewed poop.

As for the new Toyota engines - Amsoil OE and XL 0W-20 meet all the requirements necessary to avoid even the most biased BITOG warranty watcher.

Use Amsoil if you like it. Amsoil certainly is not for every situation. Pennzoil and M1 make some great products. To have Amsoil compared to the top is always good. Use what you like and don't let people talk you out of a product because of their own bias. Avoid the Amsoil haters. Too many happy customers to have me think negative thoughts.
grin2.gif


Hey Pablo Thanks!
I agree that the pricing for Amsoil OE/XL with my preferred account is on par with what`s on the shelf. as I had said earlier I remove the shipping $$ from the equation bc even with the rise in surcharges from UPS it is still less than driving around looking and hoping the oil is on the shelf. Even when we consolidate or shopping efforts, I`ve still left empty handed...
Just like I think Lowes and HD have gotten really cheap these days, but that`s another off topic story...lol...
 
Originally Posted By: PaleRider
Originally Posted By: aquariuscsm
Yep,all quart synths are $9-$10 a quart now. Only exception is the Walmart 5 quart jugs,which you`ll only find CAFE grades unfortunately. If Amsoil could be found on the shelf next to the M1 and Synpower,I`d use Amsoil exclusively.

Generally I take the shipping right out of the equation, bc it would cost me similar monies running around and sometimes less at today`s gas prices. I was over joyed when I found Toyota SN 0w20 for 66 a case, but the dealer wouldn`t ship oil from SC, parts yes, oil no...


Sometimes you might come accross 0w20 Toyota oil for better prices at ebay than some dealer prices.
 
Originally Posted By: kozanoglu
Originally Posted By: PaleRider
Originally Posted By: aquariuscsm
Yep,all quart synths are $9-$10 a quart now. Only exception is the Walmart 5 quart jugs,which you`ll only find CAFE grades unfortunately. If Amsoil could be found on the shelf next to the M1 and Synpower,I`d use Amsoil exclusively.

Generally I take the shipping right out of the equation, bc it would cost me similar monies running around and sometimes less at today`s gas prices. I was over joyed when I found Toyota SN 0w20 for 66 a case, but the dealer wouldn`t ship oil from SC, parts yes, oil no...


Sometimes you might come accross 0w20 Toyota oil for better prices at ebay than some dealer prices.

true, I came across a quantity of 10 qts for 60 plus shipping. just not a fleabay buyer/seller for no other reason than not having an account...
Kinda blows tho that you cant go to your purchasing dealer and get a good price on buying oil over the counter. I guess they just want you in the door for their 100$ service and then some...
 
they stopped making TSO and started selling SSO. SSO made my engine run louder. Not scientific, but to me, louder isnt good. PU 5w40 and M1 0w40 are what I keep in my stash now. At less than $6 a quart, it s a bargain compared to a $12 average for SSO after shipping
 
You can sign up on the Mobil web site for 20% savings on Mobil 1, if it is your thing. Keep the paper work diligently though.
 
Originally Posted By: hooligan24
they stopped making TSO and started selling SSO. SSO made my engine run louder. Not scientific, but to me, louder isnt good. PU 5w40 and M1 0w40 are what I keep in my stash now. At less than $6 a quart, it s a bargain compared to a $12 average for SSO after shipping


That was my observation with SSO as well, only I was using a 30 grade oil before, not a 40 grade like you were. Changing the oil out quieted it down. Funny thing is in this case I used the same filter over again because it wasn't in service that long. That takes the filter out of the mix.
 
Originally Posted By: PaleRider
Guys don`t beat me up to bad... I`ve tried to find some user feedback on Amsoil. It appears that most members here prefer PU or M1. In all seriousness can you say why?

I used to use Penn, QS, back in the old days with Dino. I have used M1 in past vehicles tho. In my Work vehicles I used Amsoil when I needed the longer OCI`s., and currently use Valvoline, Castrol GTX, and Supertech at the proper intervals with the other cars...
so I find myself questioning which oil to use. trying not to over think this but it does get confusing with all the new synths, blends, and so called synths...
I currently need a good 0w20 in the Toyota. I have read many threads here on the Toyota oil and agree with your findings. I understand it is their proprietary blend, but pricing @ 93$ a case before tax is a little nuts and not local. I could use a very good similar or equivalent oil that is more readily avail and easy to obtain. However, I will be doing 5K oci`s bc we Tow with the FJ in season. Thanks for reading!
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IT's purely purchasing preference. AMSOIL is a nice oil, looks great on paper but the ordering of it by mail when the market is saturated with synthetic oils that meet spec and the fact that it's easy just to go to the dealer at 10k or 1 year intervals with whatever synthetic they are willing to supply explains where I came down,

convenience and the belief that the brand makes little difference.
 
Originally Posted By: Bryanccfshr
Originally Posted By: PaleRider
Guys don`t beat me up to bad... I`ve tried to find some user feedback on Amsoil. It appears that most members here prefer PU or M1. In all seriousness can you say why?

I used to use Penn, QS, back in the old days with Dino. I have used M1 in past vehicles tho. In my Work vehicles I used Amsoil when I needed the longer OCI`s., and currently use Valvoline, Castrol GTX, and Supertech at the proper intervals with the other cars...
so I find myself questioning which oil to use. trying not to over think this but it does get confusing with all the new synths, blends, and so called synths...
I currently need a good 0w20 in the Toyota. I have read many threads here on the Toyota oil and agree with your findings. I understand it is their proprietary blend, but pricing @ 93$ a case before tax is a little nuts and not local. I could use a very good similar or equivalent oil that is more readily avail and easy to obtain. However, I will be doing 5K oci`s bc we Tow with the FJ in season. Thanks for reading!
cool.gif




IT's purely purchasing preference. AMSOIL is a nice oil, looks great on paper but the ordering of it by mail when the market is saturated with synthetic oils that meet spec and the fact that it's easy just to go to the dealer at 10k or 1 year intervals with whatever synthetic they are willing to supply explains where I came down,

convenience and the belief that the brand makes little difference.


true that!. when it comes time to go to the dealer we`ll take the hour ride, there is plenty to do down in that area like "famous Daves BBQ!" matter of fact we were just across from the dealer this afternoon, and rode thru the lot to check out the FJ`s.
 
Quite frankly, when prices were going up earlier this year it was almost breaking even for Amsoil's SSO oils compared to the EVERY DAY price/Quart for synthetic oils in the retail market.

The only "elixir" for the retail scene/market is Wal-Mart. Without them you'd only be able to buy oil at a 'good' price locally with sales.

It's the truth.
 
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