Why Not Use HDEO in Everything?

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Originally Posted By: kmrcstintn
I would love to use an oil with a great antiwear additive package, but my 2011 Jeep Liberty has 2 'mini' cat converters (one each header pipe) and a 'full size' cat converter on the main exhaust pipe (after the header pipes merge) that can potentially get damaged...lots of $$$ paid in replacement parts & labor
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If it doesent burn oil you have no problems and if it does its
like the question of the hen or the egg...
cats dont like additives from oil and cats dont like oil.
My Durango have been burning almost a quarter/ 200 miles for the last years ( about 20 quarts a year..yeah i know i should change that intake belly pan gasket) and it still passes smogtests with flying colours, alwas on ci4+ hdeo.
 
Originally Posted By: dnewton3
BuickGN - I see the point you are trying to make, but I disagree on some level.

The "contaminants" can range widely in form and function. Coolant, fuel, dirt and soot are the main culprits. We'd probably agree on this.

No oil can really do much with fuel and coolant; once they get into the oil, they simply exist. Let's not confuse "coolant" with "moisture". Some amount of moisture is always present. The longer use cycles of an engine can help boil this out (technically, it's an evaporation process). But coolant and it's negative effects cannot be "handled" for too long by the host oil. Fuel does not really harm the oil, but it does dilute the oil, thereby reducing the oil's abilities. Further, moisture can be handled by the TBN of the oil add-pack; this is a direct relationship (the more TBN, the longer the oil can last in service to control the sulphuric acid, etc.).

Other issues are also intended to be controlled by the additive package. Soot and dirt (silicon) are able to be controlled by the dispersent portion of the package. Soot is basically the carbonized form of fuel from incomplete combustion. Dirt is typically ingested by the air intake process. These can be "held" in suspension by the anti-agglomerates, and thereby be kept at a size small enough to be harmless. Only AFTER that part of the add-pack becomes overwhelmed, does the soot and dirt start to co-join, thereby becoming large enough to become an issue. This is precisely why oil turns "black", but does no harm early on in the lifecycle of an oil. Because these items are controlled by the add-pack, the life-span of the oil is at least conceptually a direct relationship to the "robustness" of the add-pack. The more dispersants and detergents that are present, the longer the oil can perform. Your concept of dumping oil because these contaminants are building up is accumulating is sound, but I highly suspect your frequency is far too great. Premium oils should be able to last much longer than 5k miles.

So, in part I agree with you. If you have an engine that has a mechanical issue (leaking fuel injectors, intake filtration leak, coolant leak, etc) then dumping oil early and often can help control this problem and keep the oil health in a decent, manageble form.

But if your engine is in good shape mechanically, dumping oil (especially expensive PAOs) every 5k miles is simply a waste of good oil, because it's likely they are FAR MORE CAPABLE of extended duration due to higher base stock configuration and add-pack construction.

Also, I take exception your to comment that the only way to get rid of contaminants is to dump the oil. Bypass filtration can help control the dirt and soot for quite a long time. They cannot help with coolant and fuel. But again, this all comes down to how good of shape your equipment is in.

Equipment longevity is a result of "proper maintenance". Proper maintenance is perhaps best defined as a combination of your frequency of maintenance, product choices, and equipment condition.

You must tailor your inputs to control your outputs. There is no one perfect answer, as often times there is more than one road to the same destination. There are, however, "better" answers depending upon each individual scenario.

So, coming back full circle to the OPs post, "why not use HDEO in everything" if they are a "better" product over PCMOs? You certainly can. Though the question really is: "are you going to get your full value from it?"

You seem to infer that there are other reasons to use oil or change oil other than OCI, but I completely disagree with you here. "This thread is turning into an HDEO vs OCI. There are other reasons to run one besides OCI. HTHS comes to mind. More anti-wear additives are another."

What the heck good is "more anti-wear additives" if you don't use them all??? Why have "more" of anything if you never intend use it? At this point, you are admitting to paying for well more than you will consume. If you use HDEO because it has "more" of any characteristic, but you only use it to a level that can be satisfied by PCMO, then where in the world is the logic of doing that??????? It simply confounds me; there is no "logic" to this decision. You are operating soley on emotion; you "feel" that it's "better" even though there is no proof of it being so. Your comment about this being "HDEO vs OCI" is EXACTLY what this is about. You may have completely missed the boat in my previous post. There are mounds upon mounds of UOA evidence that show premium products do not do their job "better" (as defined by some level of "more at a single point in time"). They do the jobs LONGER. Show me any UOA where the wear-protection is 3x less by using a synthetic over a PCMO, that equates to the 3x higher cost, at some short or moderate OCI duration. Premium products, be they HDEO or syns, don't retard wear any "better" than a PCMO, UNTIL that PCMO is used up, thereby surpassing the PCMO.

That same concept goes for contamination control. If we assume the equipment is in good mechanical condition, then soot/dirt is going to be the major issue. I'm going to pick arbitrary numbers for the debate, so don't nit-pick. Let's say an engine produces 10ppm of soot for every 1k miles it travels. After 10k miles, it will have produced 100ppm of soot. If you use a PCMO that can safely handle 70ppm of soot, your oil will be capable up to 7k miles. If you use an HDEO that can handle 100ppm of soot, it's OK for 10k miles. If you use a syn that can handle 120ppm of soot, it's good for 12k miles. So, the premium products can last longer. But if you measure the soot load at 5k miles, it would have 50ppm of soot, REGARDLESS OF WHAT PRODUCCT IS IN THE SUMP! That is well within the capablility of all three products. The HDEO or syn CANNOT do a "better" job of controlling soot, because the presentation rate of the soot is constant. The premium products cannot control soot to a "better" level because even though they have "more" additive package, they cannot absorb the soot any faster than it is presented! The premium products cannot hasten the production of soot; they only can do the job longer! Get it?

OCI duration should be completely driven by one of two means.
1) arbitrary duration based upon some "guess" of ultra-conservative safety margin
2) data and planning.

Take your pick.



I couldn't agree more with you Sir! When I purchased my Superduty it was obvious that it had been poorly maintained, the oil was as black as the night. I changed the oil immediately and ran Delvac 1 5w40 and International filters for 10k. The UOA after the first oil change came back with great numbers, I did notice that the oil was still very black, regardless I stayed with this OCI for a while. Oil change after oil change I did notice that the oil was visibly cleaner and my UOA results had improved slightly. Under the advice of someone else on here, I ran my OCI's to 15k (I won't mention his name, but I will never understand the results as well as he does). The only issue that I have found with this OCI, is that the filter media becomes brittle and easy to tear. For this sole reason I will meet halfway at 12-13k. In regards to your point, I am still getting twice the distance out of my "expensive" oil Vs. the recommended OCI for my application, so it kinda pays off. Also I would like to add that my UOA results didn't differ much as to whether the oil was visibly dirty or not. I chose my oil for my application and known engine characteristics.

On a side note, International is now disregarding engine hours and mileage for OCI's on lease vehicles. The service intervals are now being dictated by gallons of fuel consumed. Which brings me back to the point you were making about contamination. We use Fleetgaurd filters and ESSO XD3 15w40.
 
T6 is rated on the jug as a gasoline SM. No danger to a cat from that. I trust Shell ratings in that regard better than those of some outfit making "designer" oil in a garage somewhere. Though Toyota says 5w or 10w 30 for several of my cars the 5-40 Rotella has made a difference in "nonspecific engine noise" in the pair with over 200K each.
 
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Originally Posted By: SuperDave456
Newer stuff has catalytic converters. Supposedly all HEDO's have add packs that can potentially coat the interior of your cat if your car begins to burn oil.

How much does it take to kill a cat?
I have no idea, but that is the general idea.

I agree with your statement of robustness though. HEDO's do very well in most aplications.
Catalytic converters were around LONG before oil companies started lowering ZDDP levels in oil. They survived just fine and will continue to do so. I have yet to read about somebody losing a cat because of HDEO/Diesel oil in and of itself.
 
Originally Posted By: Jim Allen
The lack of viscosity choices is the one reason why I don't use it in my stuff.
Huh? It comes in in all kinds of (non 15W40)weights these days.
 
Originally Posted By: pavelow
Catalytic converters were around LONG before oil companies started lowering ZDDP levels in oil. They survived just fine and will continue to do so.


Absolutely. If the vehicle is a serious oil burner, I don't think lower ZDDP levels will do a lot to save the cat.

As for viscosities available, that certainly is up for debate. If one goes for synthetic, one can have all kinds of different viscosities. I'm a little disappointed that Imperial Oil discontinued their Esso XD-3 5w-30 conventional. That had plenty of ZDDP and a nice year round viscosity for my old F-150, without having to go to synthetic Mobil Delvac Elite 222.
 
M1 0W40 has a stronger additive pack than most CJ4 oils these days, and is one of the only 0W40s available in the US (as opposed to Canada).

Charlie
 
Originally Posted By: dnewton3

Fundementally, most all lubricants protect to the same level when new and early on in their life-cycle. As they age, they have the additive package get depleted, and the base stock gets contaminated. Premium fluids (HDEOs & synthetics) have more robust add-packs to deal with harsher and/or longer expected exposure.

It's not that HDEOs and synthetics protect "better"; they protect "longer". Look at many HDEO UOAs in diesels, and you'll see what I mean. Much more often than not, a dino HDEO does as well as any synthetic for short to moderate OCI durations. Only when a dino HDEO becomes overwhelmed does a synthetic begin to "out perform" a dino. Until that point is realized, they are both doing a job adequately enough to show no significant difference statistically.

So, applying that logic to PCMO and HDEO dino oils, the same is true. PCMOs work just fine until they become overwhelmed; only after that point would the more robust add-pack of a HDEO have the advantage.


Interesting theory, d, something I have thought about a lot. I have seen recommendations of at least 1200ppm of zinc in a flat tappet engine. Modern PCMO SN oils are around the 800ppm range, so an HDEO would be a better fit, IMHO. I was able to obtain a case of Chevron Delo 10w-30 for $36.19 (including all taxes/fees), which is comparable to PCMO. This was an old case (produced 6-28-07) and has a rating CI-4, CH-4/SL. Don't know the additive levels, haven't seen a VOA on this. Also don't know the price of a more modern Delo, the jobber gave me the old price for this case. The SL rating tells me it can be used in fairly modern vehicles. One advantage to SN I have heard, is improved deposit control, any thoughts?

I was using a "designer" 5w-20 in all my engines on advice of an analyst, but have had less than stellar results. This oil with shipping was about $200.00 per 5gal bucket, which equals about $50 per 5 qt oil change. UOAs were showing such high fuel dilute and oxidation, it was toast after about 4K miles. I can buy Chevron Supreme 5w-30 at Costco when they have the coupon for $29.37 (including tax and oil fee) for a 12qt case!! I can (and have been) changing out every 1,000 miles for less money (including a $5 P1 filter). This oil has decent zinc and moly, not concerned about TBN too much, as it will not stay in long enough to be an issue. The regular price at Costco is $38.37 (including all taxes & fees).

Have done 4 oil changes in both vehicles with no UOA just to get a stable reading when I do. Including the cost of analysis, the cost per OCI goes even higher with extended intervals. I plan to do UOAs every 500-1000 miles to see when (if) wear numbers start climbing disproportionately to mileage.

You stated that small sub-micron particles are harmless as long as they stay small. How does one know when they become 5-15 um? As I understand it, detergents/dispersants keep these particles in suspension until the oil is removed. Another reason to get the oil out sooner rather than later. Also as I understand it, a detergent does not clean existing "gunk", it just prevents particles from falling out of suspension and forming new deposits, am I on track here? Can the terms "detergent" and "dispersant" be used interchangeably? For me (and most people IMHO), a bypass filtration system is expensive and hard to find space to install. There is also the risk of exposed lines leaking. Changing out oil (often) is by far the most effective (and cost efficient) way to get rid of wear causing contaminants, again IMHO. If the answer is UOA, I agree, but a case of oil costs less than a UOA, again not cost effective.

Also, some AW additives can cause increased acidity if used long-term. A good reason not to use "race-oil" in your daily driver. My main concern now is wear. I don't care if I have to change the oil every 500, 1K, 2K, 3K, 5K, 10K, as long as the wear is low for the mileage in service, and is cost-effective.

Comments?
 
Originally Posted By: garageman402
I have seen recommendations of at least 1200ppm of zinc in a flat tappet engine. Modern PCMO SN oils are around the 800ppm range, so an HDEO would be a better fit, IMHO.


I'm always hemming and hawing over how much of an issue it is. I'm always on the lookout for a high ZDDP oil for my old F-150, even though it's far from a performance motor. That being said, while 1200 ppm of ZDDP might be around the "ideal" concentration, SL and earlier oils did not always have as much as we think they did.

Even oils such as the SL versions of Royal Purple didn't show as much zinc as one would expect. Defy doesn't, either. Then again, those could easily be problems with testing, since neither RP nor SOPUS routinely publish zinc levels, whereas Imperial Oil (our XOM) often does for their HDEOs.
 
Originally Posted By: Garak
Originally Posted By: garageman402
I have seen recommendations of at least 1200ppm of zinc in a flat tappet engine. Modern PCMO SN oils are around the 800ppm range, so an HDEO would be a better fit, IMHO.


I'm always hemming and hawing over how much of an issue it is. I'm always on the lookout for a high ZDDP oil for my old F-150, even though it's far from a performance motor. That being said, while 1200 ppm of ZDDP might be around the "ideal" concentration, SL and earlier oils did not always have as much as we think they did.

Even oils such as the SL versions of Royal Purple didn't show as much zinc as one would expect. Defy doesn't, either. Then again, those could easily be problems with testing, since neither RP nor SOPUS routinely publish zinc levels, whereas Imperial Oil (our XOM) often does for their HDEOs.


Redline (PCMO, not race) has a high level of ZDDP, and a TON of molybdenum, but again $137.88 for a case of 0w-30 and $131.40 per case of 5w-30. They also have no API approval, but we knew that.

I guess the only way to know is through analysis.
 
Yep, there definitely are a lot of boutique oils that have plenty of ZDDP. That Red Line is expensive, but not absurdly so. I've seen some of these boutique oils at over double that price. It's hard to justify spending more on two oil changes than the cam and lifters are worth in the first place.
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My car has burned a quart of oil every 1000 miles since I bought it with 196k, it has burnt that for a long time the PO said, the cat is still original and works, no codes thrown yet, I doubt using a HDEO with 300-400ppm more zinc is going to do my cat in faster than a PCMO.

My car runs better on 15w40 than on anything else I have ran, I plan to post a UOA at the 5k mark.
 
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Even back in the day, we had cats plug for no apparent reason, anyhow, regardless of oil consumption and zinc levels. On the LPG powered taxis, we had cats plug after a few years, even with minimal oil consumption and obviously no extremely rich gasoline mixtures.

That's always been a mystery to me. One of the cars, in fact, was bought brand new and run on LPG for most of its life.

I can see the car manufacturers' point, though. If they're required to warranty the things for an extended period, they might as well be given what they can to allow the cats to last as long as possible.
 
We always ran HDEO in the SBC powered Suburbans on the farm. The '94 had 200k when it was retired, and the '99 has 150k on it right now...both saw nothing but 5w40 or 15w40 and never had any issues with converters. I wonder if some converter designs are more prone to issues? I know a few friends with Impalas and Cadillacs that needed the cats replaced.

Garak, it seems really odd that anything running on LP would plug a converter.
 
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Originally Posted By: Garak
Even back in the day, we had cats plug for no apparent reason, anyhow, regardless of oil consumption and zinc levels. On the LPG powered taxis, we had cats plug after a few years, even with minimal oil consumption and obviously no extremely rich gasoline mixtures.

That's always been a mystery to me. One of the cars, in fact, was bought brand new and run on LPG for most of its life.

I can see the car manufacturers' point, though. If they're required to warranty the things for an extended period, they might as well be given what they can to allow the cats to last as long as possible.


Check out the car in this link, it gives you a good skinny on how a cat can plug on an ex-police LPG interceptor: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CTz7bBXVZM8

TL;DR? Well, on cold starts liquid propane can get into the engine and burn extremely rich. When that happens it'll clog a catalytic converter like a boss.

I think the cat-damage from ZDDP thing is mostly an engineering specification problem. ZDDP is really bad for a cat, sure, but it seems realistically the cat survives even on oil burners.

But because it could damage an emissions system, they tend to play it safe and try to push out ZDDP for new technologies.
 
Originally Posted By: Rob_Roy
I wonder if some converter designs are more prone to issues? I know a few friends with Impalas and Cadillacs that needed the cats replaced.

Garak, it seems really odd that anything running on LP would plug a converter.


Tommygun's point is instructive. Also, it's quite possible that there were some manufacturing or engineering details back then that contributed to shorter cat life. The bulk of the taxis I was dealing with were the Caprices and Impalas. After model year 1986, the cat troubles seemed to disappear. So, before that, was it a bit of bad luck, rich burning, or poorer cats? Could be a bit of all three, I guess.

In the end, it wasn't that big of a deal. Cats weren't (and still aren't) mandatory under provincial legislation, so when they plugged on LPG, they simply got yanked.

As I said, I don't blame the manufacturers for wanting decreased phosphorus levels. After all, it's easy for the government to just send out edicts about lengthening warranty. It helps if they provide a few tools to simplify the process.
 
HDEO are not fuel conserving and have no API starbursts.

Lots of people desire 0W20 these days to save on fuel. No HDEO in that viscosity that I'm aware of.
 
That's certainly true, but there are plenty of older vehicles out there that can use a 15w-40 or 10w-30 HDEO. There are also newer vehicles that specify a 5w-30 and are out of warranty. While 10w-30 HDEO may not be optimal, if someone has something that requires that in addition to a 5w-30 out of warranty vehicle, it can simplify oil choice. And, often, the price is right.

Running 15w-40 in a properly running, new Toyota or Honda, for instance, might be a little silly.
 
I see logic in the simplified approach, depending on one's fleet.

For example, the cold flow properties of the T5 10w-30 (very easily available and at a good cost) would be used in a WIDE variety of applications. I believe Jim Allen is working towards that approach. For those of us with mixed fleets (gassers and diesels) it's a good concept. Add in some air-cooled lawn equipment, a shared-sump motorcycle, and one single HDEO starts to make a lot of sense for simple, broadly capable maintenance.

I'm sure somewhere in this 10-page thread, we've already noted that just because something is not "optimum", does not mean it's not "more than good enough".

For those who don't "need" an HDEO product (no diesel on site and just the typical liquid-cooled gassers) then most any PCMO will suffice for the gassers.
 
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