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Why try to fix it if it's not broken? That would be my guess.
What have you been using?
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Why try to fix it if it's not broken? That would be my guess.
What have you been using?
Ever since I've become a BITOG memember, I've flip-flopped between Havoline, Valvoline All Climate, Castrol GTX, and Mobil Clean 5000. OF those 4 brands...I truly wish I could narrow it down to using just one, but with all the back and forth #@$%! I keep reading, I've come to realize there really is no answer.
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Modern widely marketed synthetics do not have the same level of problems with increased oil usage/leakage as do synthetics of years gone by, as they are typically no more than group III oils with excellent additive packs.
They are good oils, however in your application, i would tend to agree for reasons of increased expense at minimal gains. If maintained properly, the cheapest Quakerstate, FormulaShell, or Superflo you can find on sale should take your car many many more miles.
Regardless of what oil you use, i'd get that oil pan gasket replaced. It should be a very inexpensive job.
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Replacing the oil pan on the GM W-cars, IIRC, involves pulling the engine up and slightly out of the car. I think there are two ways that it can be done, but both require alot of work and would be very expensive.
I'd chose an oil that would not predispose you to a leak from this gasket.
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what about the intake gasket on this motor?
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Actually, it's quite funny, but to replace the oil pan gasket on the Chev Lumina is extremely labor intense I found. You have to remove a lot of parts beneath the motor just to get to it. It's not a simple bolt off/bolt on job. This oil seapage from the pan is so minor, that I notice no movement on the stick between changes.