Why Do Knowledgeable Folks on Here use 20 wt Oil

[Kalle.J]

Looks to me like the Aus and NZ manual say 0W-20 is perfectly fine.

You are no fun at all. Logic, reasoning and stuff. Where is your inner rebel!?
What if it was mandated ONLY .22 caliber bullets nothing else!

 

[RDY4WAR]

My wear metals in UOA are below average. Why take the -0.5% loss in efficiency for no positive trade-off?

 

[Plumb Bob]

Yes we understand that the differences in UOA analysis between 20 and 30 wt oil are slight. But we also know 30 wt protects better. The 3 factor Bearing Graph says that.

We also know that 20 wt. oil was first considered 20 years ago to improve gas mileage. It was shown that engines at that time would not last to 150 K miles as they would be required. So they lowered that requirement. And fast forward engines were redesigned with larger bearings and bearing surfaced to provide for less wear.

Still in light of this there is every reason to suspect that an engine will last longer over the longer haul and/or use less oil over that period by using 30 wt. oil. So do knowledgeable folks value the fact that engines will give 3% to 6% better mileage??

The answer is in the subject of your post. As an old member, you know this.

 

[factorytuned2012]

Some timing chain tensioners and VTEC solenoids and other engine components require 20w to work properly.

That ain’t true plenty of B16A and F20C’s ran 5 and 10W30

 

[goingplacesanddoingstuff]

30 weight protects a bit better at operating temp, all other things being equal. It also gives a cushion for fuel dilution prone engines.

However, 20 weight may protect a bit better before the engine has reached operating temp. Short trippers (who don’t have issues with fuel dilution) and cold winter drivers may benefit slightly more from it.

Wear of oiled parts is not usually what kills engines, though. The most important thing for an oil to do, by far, is to keep the oil passages in the piston rings clean. Gummed up piston rings, and subsequent cylinder bore wear, are what kills engines. The choice between 20 or 30 weight likely has very little impact on the longevity of a given engine.

Keeping pistons clean is why I like boutique oils and Valvoline Restore and Protect. I also use HPL Premium Plus 0w30 a lot. My Cx30 turbo is noticeably easier to start in cold conditions with it than the factory 5w30.

 

[Hall]

Honda has been recommending 0w20 for a long time now. The oil cap on my 2016 Civic says 0w20 on it actually.

Our 2012 Civic specs 0W-20 and Honda back-spec'd their models, some as far back as 2003, as I recall, to "allow" 0W-20.

 

[Hall]

That ain’t true plenty of B16A and F20C’s ran 5 and 10W30

Someone posted the page from an owners manual for a late-90s Honda that listed 20W-50 as suitable oil ! Fact is, Honda engines DO NOT CARE what oil you put in 'em.

 

[hk24]

My cars get Supertech or Costco Kirkland 0W20 oil every 10, 000 miles.

Apparently, afaik, it's a 'blend' by Warren Oil - although, this is in Canada - in the USA, it's probably the same? Is that considered acceptable here, do you know? I guess it's okay with you....

I bought Supertech last time - for some reason, iirc, I concluded it was acceptable since I bought the 'full synthetic.' It was the cheapest, by a lot. For e.g., now it's $29 for a 5L jug and the next cheapest 'brand' oil 5L jug is QS FS. I have bought that in the past - also, I've bought the Pennzoil FS before....but, these are $37 and up. So, I guess my question is, is the Supertech fine and not worth it to spend an extra $10 for one of the other brands?

 

[Zee09]

The heck with 20 weight oil, I'm moving to 16 wt...

Ford spec'd 5w20 for about everything way back when dirt was invented. I never had any issues with any engine using 20 wt.
And ran most oci's at 10k with FS.

 

[demarpaint]

A lot of knowledgeable people on here aren't using 20 grade oils either. Go figure.

 

[Glenda W.]

Any progress yet?

 

[kschachn]

30 weight protects a bit better at operating temp, all other things being equal. It also gives a cushion for fuel dilution prone engines.

However, 20 weight may protect a bit better before the engine has reached operating temp. Short trippers (who don’t have issues with fuel dilution) and cold winter drivers may benefit slightly more from it.

Wear of oiled parts is not usually what kills engines, though. The most important thing for an oil to do, by far, is to keep the oil passages in the piston rings clean. Gummed up piston rings, and subsequent cylinder bore wear, are what kills engines. The choice between 20 or 30 weight likely has very little impact on the longevity of a given engine.

Keeping pistons clean is why I like boutique oils and Valvoline Restore and Protect. I also use HPL Premium Plus 0w30 a lot. My Cx30 turbo is noticeably easier to start in cold conditions with it than the factory 5w30.

Please explain. How does a thinner oil ever protect better? Or are you suggesting it "gets through the narrow passages faster"?

 

[z71offroader83]

Yes we understand that the differences in UOA analysis between 20 and 30 wt oil are slight. But we also know 30 wt protects better. The 3 factor Bearing Graph says that.

We also know that 20 wt. oil was first considered 20 years ago to improve gas mileage. It was shown that engines at that time would not last to 150 K miles as they would be required. So they lowered that requirement. And fast forward engines were redesigned with larger bearings and bearing surfaced to provide for less wear.

Still in light of this there is every reason to suspect that an engine will last longer over the longer haul and/or use less oil over that period by using 30 wt. oil. So do knowledgeable folks value the fact that engines will give 3% to 6% better mileage??

Who is this “We” chick you keep referring to?

 

[tolian21]

Again, some new GDI turbo engines dilute oil with gas such that viscosity drops from 0w-30 to 0w-20. People keep bringing up examples of their non-GDI and non turbo cars working fine on 0w-20. It all depends on the engine and how you drive (short trips, winter?)

 

[facility1]

seems like I read somewhere that the majority of engine wear occurs at start up is why the lower (0w) viscosity, pertaining to the start/stop function on newer cars and of course cold starts, instant fluid pumpability is why, and the cafe and related U.S.. gov. standards combined. the protection is achieved by the great work the formulators of the modern oils and the engine manufacture.

 

[Patman]

seems like I read somewhere that the majority of engine wear occurs at start up is why the lower (0w) viscosity, pertaining to the start/stop function on newer cars and of course cold starts, instant fluid pumpability is why, and the cafe and related U.S.. gov. standards combined. the protection is achieved by the great work the formulators of the modern oils and the engine manufacture.

It’s not just on the initial start up but the entire time from the cold start until the oil is up to normal operating temperature. That’s where they say that possibly 75% of engine wear occurs. That’s why I have always been in the habit of driving all of my cars very gently until they are up to temperature.

 

[I<3oil]

Apparently, afaik, it's a 'blend' by Warren Oil - although, this is in Canada - in the USA, it's probably the same? Is that considered acceptable here, do you know? I guess it's okay with you....

I bought Supertech last time - for some reason, iirc, I concluded it was acceptable since I bought the 'full synthetic.' It was the cheapest, by a lot. For e.g., now it's $29 for a 5L jug and the next cheapest 'brand' oil 5L jug is QS FS. I have bought that in the past - also, I've bought the Pennzoil FS before....but, these are $37 and up. So, I guess my question is, is the Supertech fine and not worth it to spend an extra $10 for one of the other brands?

Highline Warren != Warren Oil

 

[I<3oil]

The heck with 20 weight oil, I'm moving to 16 wt...

Ford spec'd 5w20 for about everything way back when dirt was invented. I never had any issues with any engine using 20 wt.
And ran most oci's at 10k with FS.

Way too thick. It'll ruin the VVT and solenoids! Gotta go 0W-2 for max efficiency and ability to flow.

 

[tolian21]

seems like I read somewhere that the majority of engine wear occurs at start up is why the lower (0w) viscosity, pertaining to the start/stop function on newer cars and of course cold starts, instant fluid pumpability is why, and the cafe and related U.S.. gov. standards combined. the protection is achieved by the great work the formulators of the modern oils and the engine manufacture.

If you worried about this, 0w-30 will flow identical to 0w-20 at cold start. But in most climates 5w is good enough.

 

[CKN]

A lot of knowledgeable people on here aren't using 20 grade oils either. Go figure.

The vast majority on here don't buy new cars on here that spec it.