if you want to do longer than 10k step up from that mediocre sp/dexos vanilla oil and just use a european formula.
oil matters as much as the interval you choose
oil matters as much as the interval you choose
Why 10K Miles Oil change may not be good!
- Thread starter Pelican
- Start date
I have a 2006 Tundra with the 2UZ-FE engine which is notoriously easy on oil. I have a fumoto drain valve so I drain exactly a quart at 5000 miles and replace with a new quart. I'm using Mobil 1 EP with a Fram ultra synthetic filter. Anybody see any in doing this? I started doing this last year as oil is harder and harder to find and I buy it when available. This ensures I'll be ok with supply.
The way I see it the oil should be fine and I'm replenishing the additive pack halfway through a 10,000 mile interval
The way I see it the oil should be fine and I'm replenishing the additive pack halfway through a 10,000 mile interval
It'll be fine. See my post #181 here in this thread.
I run various synthetic oils and a larger full flow filter XG8A and a Pareto TopDog bypass filter setup w/Amsoil EaBP90. My sump capacity is 6.5 qts
I run various synthetic oils and a larger full flow filter XG8A and a Pareto TopDog bypass filter setup w/Amsoil EaBP90. My sump capacity is 6.5 qts
I'm banging off the redline constantly on my 1.6l engine cause that's where all the power is.
I do it almost every time now,
Almost nothing about this video makes any sense to me. The mechanic was already blaming OCI before he did any disassembly of the engine. Also, he apparently had already ordered and taken delivery of the short block. Once opened, the bearings looked like new and there was almost no varnish or soot. The only apparent damage was two of the piston rings and some unmeasured scraping in two of the cylinders. How can the OCI have created that situation? Was it caused by the oil? Or out of control injectors? Or a clogged exhaust? Or valves misbehaving? Or are these some more of Toyota’s infamous failing rings? No apparent attempt is made to diagnose it. Instead, he declares that it was caused by following the factory suggested OCI. Then he straps all of the 7-year-old 180,000 mile engine parts onto the new short block, without any apparent testing of those parts, and declares that the car now has a new engine.
Why not look in the local junkyard for a totaled car with low milage, and take the whole engine out and replace the one in this car? This is a very common car after all.
Why were chemicals not tried to free up the gunked up rings before deciding on a short block replacement?
Why not use a fully rebuilt engine with tested or replaced timing chain, alternator, pumps, etc.?
I fear that the owner did not get a good value for his $6000+ dollars. Also, blaming the problem on OCI is not logical or illustrative of good diagnostic skills and process.
Why not look in the local junkyard for a totaled car with low milage, and take the whole engine out and replace the one in this car? This is a very common car after all.
Why were chemicals not tried to free up the gunked up rings before deciding on a short block replacement?
Why not use a fully rebuilt engine with tested or replaced timing chain, alternator, pumps, etc.?
I fear that the owner did not get a good value for his $6000+ dollars. Also, blaming the problem on OCI is not logical or illustrative of good diagnostic skills and process.
Because the cylinder walls were already scored up too badly.
My thoughts exactly internally it looked like a very clean engine for 180k miles sadly people are clinging to this like it’s some sort of evidence against longer drain intervals when in reality this is likely faulty parts since I don’t believe this specific cause of failure is a persistent issue on Toyota’s
OVERKILL
$100 Site Donor 2021
Yes, Toyota does have a history of using improper/inadequate oil drainback hole designs, so it's not outside the realm of possibility that this design is marginal. Also, Bill mentioned the piston squirters (which are used to cool the bottom of the piston on some designs) were plugged on those two cylinders. Given that these see full oil pressure (unlike the cylinder walls, which are lubed by what comes out between the rod/crank interface) I find this quite peculiar, as, it would require some pretty large particulate to be in circulation to block those nozzles, stuff that should have been caught by the oil filter and never agglomerated in the first place, unless we are talking about chunks of oil filter or something else that has come apart.
I just don’t believe it’s OCI related since internally it was exceptionally clean, that said the cleanliness alone speaks volumes against those saying anything over 5k miles will cause issues
He answers some of those questions in the intros.
I agree with some of what the guy says.
He clearly has an agenda (5000 mile oil changes) as he alludes to i think part of the problem here is what kind of oil dealers are pumping. But Toyota does not have the best record with oil control rings and pistons. Prius have rep of using oil, the 2.4 or 2.5 have known issues with piston design. Frankly if someone had gone into the bottom end and cleaned the oil squirters and done a piston soak when it started using 1qt per thousand it probably could have been saved. Especially since he claims the squirters are "always plugged" (WHY)... The engine is clean why are the squirters plugged?
One should have no problem figuring out I'm not a member of the Toyota fan club, but the cleanliness of that engine points to something other than OCI...
Does anyone know the size of the hole that runs through the cooling nozzles?
OVERKILL
$100 Site Donor 2021
I found this patent on them:
https://patents.google.com/patent/US20140091161A1/en
And the pics I've found that show the orifice definitely would lend one to think that anything that could plug these shouldn't be making its way past the oil filter:
That looks like a good size hole for it's intended purpose. I wish he would have showed what the clogged ones looked like.
Back in the early 2000's, I started changing the oil in my '02 Explorer at 10k oci's. I changed the filters at 5k. I did it for at least 10 years. Then three weeks ago, it had a catastrophic failure. Not the engine, the trans went on it. It would have cost twice what it was worth to fix, so away it went on the hook. The engine ran as smooth and quite, as it did when I bought it. No cam chain issues or noise's of any kind. I did have to change the valve cover gaskets once in 258,000 miles. I proved to myself you can do 10k oci's, as long as the engine is healthy to begin with.,,,
all futile when the filter bypass gets activated
like how is possible, wet timingbelt chunks get into engine places when mesh+filter is in place..
He didn’t even pull the valve from the head, used the wire brush to clean the carbon build up, didn’t test the head for integrity, no chemical cleaning of the head and parts (just some break cleaner and good to go), didn’t prep the head surface and so on and so forth. There was nothing that I liked in the video (not the 5k oil change preaching but how he actually worked on that car)
Good point, and I agree. Whatever oil filter he had on that thing could have easily become clogged in 10,000 miles, (most likely one of those tiny mini filters), and activated the oil filter bypass. And in the process allowed larger pieces of debris into the passageways. Anyone of which could have clogged the orifices on those two oil cooling jets.
OVERKILL
$100 Site Donor 2021
Would have been a prime candidate for an oil filter autopsy to see if that was the case. If the rest of the engine was clean, it seems unlikely that the filter would be plugged though.
FWIW, debris sweep is the reason Ford spec's a threaded-end bypass valve on their filters.
What is debris sweep? How does the described bypass valve help? Can you provide an image of such a valve? It would be nice to compare to a non-threaded valve.
Similar threads
