Who uses Mobil 1 0w20 ?
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I have used only Mobil 1 0W20 in the following vehicles.
1994 Escort Wagon, 1.9 litre, 5 speed commuter car.
Currently at 230 K miles, burns no oil quiet, etc.
240K 1994 Lumina minivan 3.1 litre, this is a working tow vehicle, it has a 4800 lb trailer on behind it much of the time, towed 704 highway miles last weekend. (Yes, the vehicle is only rated to tow 3500 lbs - the trailer has brakes and handling is very stable.)
This motor also burns no oil, never been repaired in any way.
Both cars had M1 5W30 for a couple of years until 0W20 became available. I change oil once a year, about every 18 to 20 k miles. No, I have never done an oil analysis, see no reason to as the motors easily are lasting long enough.
I like the 0w20 for guaranteed easy winter starting, especially on our mountain ski vacations.
A 2008 Sienna is beginning service at our house, probably use 0W20 also- except try to change more for warranty compliance.
maybe I should use the drained oil in my older cars!!!!
1994 Escort Wagon, 1.9 litre, 5 speed commuter car.
Currently at 230 K miles, burns no oil quiet, etc.
240K 1994 Lumina minivan 3.1 litre, this is a working tow vehicle, it has a 4800 lb trailer on behind it much of the time, towed 704 highway miles last weekend. (Yes, the vehicle is only rated to tow 3500 lbs - the trailer has brakes and handling is very stable.)
This motor also burns no oil, never been repaired in any way.
Both cars had M1 5W30 for a couple of years until 0W20 became available. I change oil once a year, about every 18 to 20 k miles. No, I have never done an oil analysis, see no reason to as the motors easily are lasting long enough.
I like the 0w20 for guaranteed easy winter starting, especially on our mountain ski vacations.
A 2008 Sienna is beginning service at our house, probably use 0W20 also- except try to change more for warranty compliance.
maybe I should use the drained oil in my older cars!!!!
ericthepig said:
Originally Posted By: EricZoom
I'm also in the middle of a 1 yr. OCI on my Mazda6s. I like M1 0w20, but for that long of an OCI, I went with Amsoil ASM 0w20. I see how well it handles the time and that oil.
Zoom, are you familiar with any other long OCI Mazda 6 folks and what they use and how they've done. I've looked at a lot of Mazda 6 UOAs - there's lot of M1 users (by far the most popular) - but I don't remember seeing any over 7k or so.
I'm also in the middle of a 1 yr. OCI on my Mazda6s. I like M1 0w20, but for that long of an OCI, I went with Amsoil ASM 0w20. I see how well it handles the time and that oil.
Zoom, are you familiar with any other long OCI Mazda 6 folks and what they use and how they've done. I've looked at a lot of Mazda 6 UOAs - there's lot of M1 users (by far the most popular) - but I don't remember seeing any over 7k or so.
I noticed a few of you guys are putting 0w-20 in engines that were never specified for that grade. What is the rational in doing this? I would be too concerned about accelerated engine wear and/or failure to do such a thing.
lovcom, I may have a bit of an answer - perhaps sometime today or early next wk. I ran PP 5w20 in my '98 Sienna (1MZ-FE engine - proven harsh on oil) - it's spec'd for 5w30. 5.5k miles of short trips (elementary school runs last spring) and hot summer vacation runs this summer. Sent a sample off to Blackstone several days ago. Will post when it comes in.
(was planning/wanting to go 10k on that oil and then UOA - but the purchase of another vehicle has the Sienna sitting in the driveway in semi-storage now)
(was planning/wanting to go 10k on that oil and then UOA - but the purchase of another vehicle has the Sienna sitting in the driveway in semi-storage now)
Rational for "lovcom" for running 0W20: I posted the above two vehicles past 240K, both in current use so that others might be reassured that premature wear was not a huge worry. Since so many studies show longer engine life with lighter weights due to much better lubrication during the first 3 miles, where most of the wear is at, we still want to know "is that really true"
OK, my other reasoning: I take a mountain ski trip every year.
Some years -40 degrees pops up, and I have the only car that starts in the parking lot. At altitude many cars fail to start at -20, due to the thin air and lack of power. They just "run on the starter" popping but not starting. Then their owners sit in the motel waiting for the non-existent tow service (10,000 skiers, 1 gas station). Next day same story, third day they jumper it till the starter motor burns up....
Now, I have $2000 invested in the weeks ski vacation, if it gets screwed up with a car that will not start.....
The first car I switched from 10W40 to 0W20 would not start at - 20, switching it to 0W20 made it start instantly at -20 and-30,
and marginal at - 40.
A published GM research article showed that oil viscosity was
by far the largest factor in cold starting, typically adding 9 degrees per oil grade in test engines. From memory their engines minimum starting temperature was:
20W -7 degrees F
10W -18
5W -27
oW -36
And of course synthetics usually are a little thinner yet in cold
Note that the 3.1 litre Lumina minivan listed above has always used 0W20 all summer while towing double its rated load on long highway trips with 20K oil change intervals.
Stop worrying, go get the better mileage, cold starting and maybe consider not laying under your car and changing oil every week!!
OK, just to make this reply way to long, look at the picture on
http://www.5sst.com This is the 4,880 lb (with trailer) triple engined boat that the Lumina is usually pulling.
Boat Value: $75,000
Lumina Value $750
If you spend more on the tow vehicle you have less to spend on your boat.
fsskier
fsskier
OK, my other reasoning: I take a mountain ski trip every year.
Some years -40 degrees pops up, and I have the only car that starts in the parking lot. At altitude many cars fail to start at -20, due to the thin air and lack of power. They just "run on the starter" popping but not starting. Then their owners sit in the motel waiting for the non-existent tow service (10,000 skiers, 1 gas station). Next day same story, third day they jumper it till the starter motor burns up....
Now, I have $2000 invested in the weeks ski vacation, if it gets screwed up with a car that will not start.....
The first car I switched from 10W40 to 0W20 would not start at - 20, switching it to 0W20 made it start instantly at -20 and-30,
and marginal at - 40.
A published GM research article showed that oil viscosity was
by far the largest factor in cold starting, typically adding 9 degrees per oil grade in test engines. From memory their engines minimum starting temperature was:
20W -7 degrees F
10W -18
5W -27
oW -36
And of course synthetics usually are a little thinner yet in cold
Note that the 3.1 litre Lumina minivan listed above has always used 0W20 all summer while towing double its rated load on long highway trips with 20K oil change intervals.
Stop worrying, go get the better mileage, cold starting and maybe consider not laying under your car and changing oil every week!!
OK, just to make this reply way to long, look at the picture on
http://www.5sst.com This is the 4,880 lb (with trailer) triple engined boat that the Lumina is usually pulling.
Boat Value: $75,000
Lumina Value $750
If you spend more on the tow vehicle you have less to spend on your boat.
fsskier
fsskier
fsskier, then why do Honda, Toyota and others back spec just certain models for 0w-20 usage and not all models?
For 0w-20 to be safely used, don't the engines have to be designed with particular tolerances?
You make it sound as though any engine can use 0w-20...I suspect this is not the case, but perhaps someone can explain otherwise...
Just because 0w-20 has been proven to circulate better, lube better, start faster and make engines last longer, does not mean this is true for all engines, does it?
For 0w-20 to be safely used, don't the engines have to be designed with particular tolerances?
You make it sound as though any engine can use 0w-20...I suspect this is not the case, but perhaps someone can explain otherwise...
Just because 0w-20 has been proven to circulate better, lube better, start faster and make engines last longer, does not mean this is true for all engines, does it?
0w-20 exceeds all specifications for 5w-20. It's completely safe to use if your engine calls for 5w-20. (With added benefits of cold starting protection)
I have yet to see a downside to using 0w-20 in a 5w-20 application. (Anyone beg to differ?)
I personally think Honda and Chrysler would have spec'd 0w-20 for all its models requiring 5w-20.. but 0w-20 was rare back in 2002....
I have yet to see a downside to using 0w-20 in a 5w-20 application. (Anyone beg to differ?)
I personally think Honda and Chrysler would have spec'd 0w-20 for all its models requiring 5w-20.. but 0w-20 was rare back in 2002....
Lovcom asks why the manufacturers do not recomment 0W20 across the board yet.
We always think engines are designed carefully for their viscosity but.....
As engines wear, the clearances all increase.
They are mostly made of aluminum and steel, and small differences in bearing materials.
often, approval is backdated to previously built engines.
No, I am not aware of any reason to not run 0W20, but am open to suggestions.
One reason for manufacturers to NOT recommend it: It is only available in synthetic to my knowledge, some customers may be hugely upset to find that their oil changes cost triple!
Since our 240K mile engines seem to burn no oil I would think that is some evidence that wear remains very low and clearances remain tight.
Incidentally, our beater and kids in college beater cars (79 Fairmont 6 cyl and 86 taurus 4 cyl 5spd) also ran 0W20 the last several years without problems. AND as mentioned previously, when they need to be started to come home at Christmas at -20, after a week sitting in a remote parking lot, they start instantly. So does the wifes commuter car, not having to drive 100 miles round trip to rescue stranded people is worth a lot also!!!
Only downside I see: we have 9 team tow vehicles and drivers, some said: Ya gotta be nuts, towing with a 3.1 or towing with 0W20.
BUT: now that the explorer blew up, the F150 351 was guzzliing oil at 140K and the suburban started blowing oil - only when towing - at about 170 k....
With the new Sienna in my driveway I am actually getting offers on the Lumina minivan 3.1 to Tow with!!!
OK, long again, but I would like to hear more from those who keep their vehicles longer, and learn little from all the " I change oil every few miles and trade cars every couple of years.
We always think engines are designed carefully for their viscosity but.....
As engines wear, the clearances all increase.
They are mostly made of aluminum and steel, and small differences in bearing materials.
often, approval is backdated to previously built engines.
No, I am not aware of any reason to not run 0W20, but am open to suggestions.
One reason for manufacturers to NOT recommend it: It is only available in synthetic to my knowledge, some customers may be hugely upset to find that their oil changes cost triple!
Since our 240K mile engines seem to burn no oil I would think that is some evidence that wear remains very low and clearances remain tight.
Incidentally, our beater and kids in college beater cars (79 Fairmont 6 cyl and 86 taurus 4 cyl 5spd) also ran 0W20 the last several years without problems. AND as mentioned previously, when they need to be started to come home at Christmas at -20, after a week sitting in a remote parking lot, they start instantly. So does the wifes commuter car, not having to drive 100 miles round trip to rescue stranded people is worth a lot also!!!
Only downside I see: we have 9 team tow vehicles and drivers, some said: Ya gotta be nuts, towing with a 3.1 or towing with 0W20.
BUT: now that the explorer blew up, the F150 351 was guzzliing oil at 140K and the suburban started blowing oil - only when towing - at about 170 k....
With the new Sienna in my driveway I am actually getting offers on the Lumina minivan 3.1 to Tow with!!!
OK, long again, but I would like to hear more from those who keep their vehicles longer, and learn little from all the " I change oil every few miles and trade cars every couple of years.
Liquid Turbo, Not sure what it has to do with oil, but I notice your Vancouver, BC address, gotta add that the Ow20 took us to Whistler-Blackcomb a couple of years ago for the best skiing ever!!!
We had incredibly cold weather in Montana. When the morning TV news says it is -38 outside, the wind is making your car shake from side to side,
several cars are already sitting with hoods up, then our minivan started almost instantly........
Gotta admit, all the howls, growls and screeching that goes on for the first few minutes (belts, alternator, water pump, what have you) are still scary but at least it is running
We had incredibly cold weather in Montana. When the morning TV news says it is -38 outside, the wind is making your car shake from side to side,
several cars are already sitting with hoods up, then our minivan started almost instantly........
Gotta admit, all the howls, growls and screeching that goes on for the first few minutes (belts, alternator, water pump, what have you) are still scary but at least it is running
I've had it in the 09 Camry Hybrid I got about two weeks ago (with 5k miles on it). The manual for the car calls for 0w-20 or 5w-20, but says that the 0w is "preferred". So far, no objective results in the form of UOA (I'll probably wait until the second run, so I'm not testing oil mixed with 0.8q of unknown previous oil). At any rate, so far, the car runs very nicely on it, sounds great across the range, including at WOT, and I'm getting better than EPA mileage. Nothing to complain about except, of course, the price.
So other than the M1 AFE, and PP (which I never, ever see on the shelves), are there any other shelf available 0w-20s that I'm missing? I might try the Amsoil at some point, but it appears to be a near-30 wt oil anyway (9.0 cSt, vs M1 at 8.6 and PP way down there at 8.4).
So other than the M1 AFE, and PP (which I never, ever see on the shelves), are there any other shelf available 0w-20s that I'm missing? I might try the Amsoil at some point, but it appears to be a near-30 wt oil anyway (9.0 cSt, vs M1 at 8.6 and PP way down there at 8.4).
lovcom, I don't see how a 0w-20 could hurt an engine designed to use a 5w-20 oil. They both start with a 50+ viscosity and behave more like an SAE 20 at operating temp. So the 0w starts a little thinner than the 5w... the 5w will hit that viscosity a little later as it begins to warm.
Also, I've read specs that show that some 5w synthetics are actually less viscous than some 0w synthetics during a good portion of their temp range, excepting only extreme cold and the final operating temp.
I guess I'm shaking my head, too. Perhaps at extreme heat, viscosity breakdown is more dangerous if you've got a 0w instead of a 5w? At that point, I think any oil not designed for lots of heat is going to be a mess.
Also, I've read specs that show that some 5w synthetics are actually less viscous than some 0w synthetics during a good portion of their temp range, excepting only extreme cold and the final operating temp.
I guess I'm shaking my head, too. Perhaps at extreme heat, viscosity breakdown is more dangerous if you've got a 0w instead of a 5w? At that point, I think any oil not designed for lots of heat is going to be a mess.
I guess the only downside to 0w20 is cost. But other than that..should be good?
I just put in 0w20 in my RSX and swapped out M1 5w20 EP I had in there. (Bought the car with 66k, running dino juice all its life) first oil change went w/ the M1 5w20. Changed it out at 5k, switched in 0w20. 0w20 runs nicely. Anyone recommend and OCI for the 0w20? (No access to UOA)
I just put in 0w20 in my RSX and swapped out M1 5w20 EP I had in there. (Bought the car with 66k, running dino juice all its life) first oil change went w/ the M1 5w20. Changed it out at 5k, switched in 0w20. 0w20 runs nicely. Anyone recommend and OCI for the 0w20? (No access to UOA)
We have thousands of UOA reports in our UOA subsections. You can scroll through the many pages, looking at the ones that reflect circumstances like yours, or of course, use the search feature to target specifics.
If you're still in wty, I'd recommend what the mfr recommends. EDIT: Ooops, disregard, I missed the mileage in your post. Would still apply if you got yours with an extended or certified wty.
If you're still in wty, I'd recommend what the mfr recommends. EDIT: Ooops, disregard, I missed the mileage in your post. Would still apply if you got yours with an extended or certified wty.
Last edited:
Originally Posted By: fsskier
Liquid Turbo, Not sure what it has to do with oil, but I notice your Vancouver, BC address, gotta add that the Ow20 took us to Whistler-Blackcomb a couple of years ago for the best skiing ever!!!
We had incredibly cold weather in Montana. When the morning TV news says it is -38 outside, the wind is making your car shake from side to side,
several cars are already sitting with hoods up, then our minivan started almost instantly........
Gotta admit, all the howls, growls and screeching that goes on for the first few minutes (belts, alternator, water pump, what have you) are still scary but at least it is running
I lived in northern ontario, and, several times over the last 15 years it did get down to -40......Loved your description of howls,squeeks, growling etc..I sometimes wondered if the engine was going to expolde when starting in this insane cold..Do NOT miss that COLD....SOuthern Ontario now, and central Florida in winter....
Liquid Turbo, Not sure what it has to do with oil, but I notice your Vancouver, BC address, gotta add that the Ow20 took us to Whistler-Blackcomb a couple of years ago for the best skiing ever!!!
We had incredibly cold weather in Montana. When the morning TV news says it is -38 outside, the wind is making your car shake from side to side,
several cars are already sitting with hoods up, then our minivan started almost instantly........
Gotta admit, all the howls, growls and screeching that goes on for the first few minutes (belts, alternator, water pump, what have you) are still scary but at least it is running
I lived in northern ontario, and, several times over the last 15 years it did get down to -40......Loved your description of howls,squeeks, growling etc..I sometimes wondered if the engine was going to expolde when starting in this insane cold..Do NOT miss that COLD....SOuthern Ontario now, and central Florida in winter....
Originally Posted By: dbvettez061
. . .Do NOT miss that COLD....SOuthern Ontario now, and central Florida in winter....
Which, of course, is a large part of why I now live in Florida...
And I can also appreciate the amazing capability of this oil -- to provide relatively healthy and non-scary starts in those temps you poor fools endure in the winter, while at the same time, providing seemingly effortless, superb protection for us during the summer when the temps are routinely peaking up into triple digit range.
My transformation is complete -- I now understand, and believe at a basic level, that motor oil does not need to have the consistency of honey to properly protect a modern engine. In engines for which it's on the spec list, owners may use any Xw-20 oil with complete and total confidence.
. . .Do NOT miss that COLD....SOuthern Ontario now, and central Florida in winter....
Which, of course, is a large part of why I now live in Florida...
And I can also appreciate the amazing capability of this oil -- to provide relatively healthy and non-scary starts in those temps you poor fools endure in the winter, while at the same time, providing seemingly effortless, superb protection for us during the summer when the temps are routinely peaking up into triple digit range.
My transformation is complete -- I now understand, and believe at a basic level, that motor oil does not need to have the consistency of honey to properly protect a modern engine. In engines for which it's on the spec list, owners may use any Xw-20 oil with complete and total confidence.
There is another brand of 0W-20 that is available in North America - ENEOS.
ENEOS is a Japanese brand of 0W-20 engine oil.
Nippon Oil is the largest oil company in Japan and they supply the factory fill 0W-20 to Toyota in the United States.
Here is their website: http://www.eneos.us
ENEOS is a Japanese brand of 0W-20 engine oil.
Nippon Oil is the largest oil company in Japan and they supply the factory fill 0W-20 to Toyota in the United States.
Here is their website: http://www.eneos.us
Per the site, my nearest dealer is 176.1 miles away. Oh well...
4.4 miles for me.... Just curious, but is this a primarily Grp III oil?
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