Back in the day when VII were somewhat less stable, a 10W-30 was a better choice. But these days that’s not the case and it’s been shown that blenders don’t use the best base stocks for that grade. A modern 0W-30 or 0W-40 is a better choice - and not necessarily more expensive.
Who is using 10w-30?
- Thread starter Elkins45
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I have a 2002 Toyota Tacoma. It calls for 5W30, but there have been times over the years I've found 10W30 synthetic on clearance for really cheap. Right now I'm on my second of two 5 qt jugs of Pennzoil Platinum 10W30 that I got for $10. I'll go back to 5W30 after that. Honestly, I believe the manual says 10W30 can be used over 0F, and being in central Texas it never gets below 0F.
5W30 is my preference, but if they are giving away 10W30 I'll use it or mix it in with 5W30.
I've had the old girl since new and with 268K miles on the odometer she doesn't seem to be picky about oil.
5W30 is my preference, but if they are giving away 10W30 I'll use it or mix it in with 5W30.
I've had the old girl since new and with 268K miles on the odometer she doesn't seem to be picky about oil.
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I use 10W-30 in all my summer OPE. I used it in my '93 Ford E350 5.8L until recently sold. I use it in my wife's direct injected 2013 Kia Rio 1.6L. Kia manual says it's good over 0 degrees F. She doesn't drive it in the super cold. Car has almost 150K miles with no problems.
That's one of my two oils along with 5W-30. They're all you need here. It never gets colder than about -10F where I'm at. And I think most places in North America are fine with 5W-30 except maybe extreme cold areas. 10W-30 over 0F, and 5W-30 under 0F.
I know there are people doing just fine with the water thin dinosaur wizz, but I have had good luck all my life with real motor oil and I'm sticking with it.
That's one of my two oils along with 5W-30. They're all you need here. It never gets colder than about -10F where I'm at. And I think most places in North America are fine with 5W-30 except maybe extreme cold areas. 10W-30 over 0F, and 5W-30 under 0F.
I know there are people doing just fine with the water thin dinosaur wizz, but I have had good luck all my life with real motor oil and I'm sticking with it.
Chrysler products used to recommend 10W-30 up until the 2000s sometime. My first to use 5W-30 from them was a 2003 Durango with the 4.7 motor. Edit: I use 10W-30 Rotella truck oil in my 2012 Silverado because I use my driver's rewards points to buy it at the Flying J, so it's basically free.
After my Valvoline Restore and Protect cleanup, I'm going to run AMSOIL 10W-30 for a bit. I can squeak by with 10W-xx where I live, and since it's AMSOIL they don't cheap out on base oils even with 10W-xx and 15W-xx oils. Instead the Noack drops down to 4%.
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I run 10w30 in my 1.8l 14 Sonic n my 2018 Silverado 4.3l
Jealous. My dad taught me to drive on an ‘85 Toyota Pickup. 4 speed manual. No overdrive. I’d spend a lot of money to have it back.
After 23,000 miles of Valvoline Restore and Protect cleanup, I've switched to the long awaited 10w30 HPL No VII in my 2018 Forester. 300 miles on the oil so far. Forester will be pulling the trailer across country a few times on this oil. I've been waiting for this!
I was going to trade it in when a host of issues popped up - brakes, timing chain, leaky shocks but I worked on those and now it's the garage queen. Ours is a 5 speed MT.
and now the VPB Restore "Gen2" version at ebay by "Low Country Lubricants LLC", $275 with free shipping far a 3 gallon case out of Pooler, GA.
Here's the Cummins TSB VPB Restore was designed for:
https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/tsbs/2017/MC-10111660-9999.pdf
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