Who here double times their oil filter?

What about an oversized premium filter (like an m1) for two 5-7.5k oci’s
I still would not chance it. To me after 30 years of being in the automotive repair industry I just have seen a lot of vehicles that died early from poor maintenance practices and "saving money". Maybe I'm just jaded though 🤷😎. I'm a firm believer in 5k oci max with full synthetic. I change a lot of engines and timing chains due to extended oci
 
I still would not chance it. To me after 30 years of being in the automotive repair industry I just have seen a lot of vehicles that died early from poor maintenance practices and "saving money". Maybe I'm just jaded though 🤷😎. I'm a firm believer in 5k oci max with full synthetic. I change a lot of engines and timing chains due to extended oci
These new engines probably need Euro spec oil for what these oems are trying to achieve
 
These new engines probably need Euro spec oil for what these oems are trying to achieve
The problem is that our EPA and government has all these mandates that the manufacturer has to follow to sell cars in the US. in our shop we work on everything. We change more engines, & transmissions on vehicles made in the last ten years than we do on older cars with over 200k on them. Thinner oils and longer oci and "lifetime fluids" are part of the reason. Along with just stupid engineering. Belt driven oil pumps, cheap plastics, cheap materials in general for OEM parts. But wicked high sticker prices on disposable vehicles. Rant over
 
I a little bit of a different application, I just drained the oil out of the Wife's Kawasaki Versys 300X motorcycle. She only rides it about 500 miles a year. Three years ago, I changed the oil and filter, pouring back in Rotella T6 15w40. This spring, a week ago, I dumped the oil and it was golden new, I unscrewed the filter and dumped out the oil and screwed the filter back on and filled the sump back up with T6 15w40. I figure the filter can go another two years for five years total.... Its a Bosch.
 
Yeah, I think I am going to do 10k OCI's with the massive NAPA filter on the FJ Cruiser, but changing the oil every 5k miles. Yep, love T6 10w30. Never had the engine run so smooth on this oil, than any other.
 
I a little bit of a different application, I just drained the oil out of the Wife's Kawasaki Versys 300X motorcycle. She only rides it about 500 miles a year. Three years ago, I changed the oil and filter, pouring back in Rotella T6 15w40. This spring, a week ago, I dumped the oil and it was golden new, I unscrewed the filter and dumped out the oil and screwed the filter back on and filled the sump back up with T6 15w40. I figure the filter can go another two years for five years total.... Its a Bosch.
I really wouldn't unscrew and re-tighten an oil filter on a motorcycle. If it leaked that could be a bad situation if it got on the rear tire.
 
Thinner oils and longer oci and "lifetime fluids" are part of the reason.
I bet Ford went up a grade on the Coyote in 2021+ models to help address these reasons. They certainly didn't do it just for fun and lose out on some CAFE credits.
 
I really wouldn't unscrew and re-tighten an oil filter on a motorcycle. If it leaked that could be a bad situation if it got on the rear tire.
Not going to happen... have done this for over 15 years and never had a single drop of a leak. Between the wife and I, we own 13 motorcycles and we ride them as much as we can. But when a bike only accumulates 400-500 miles a year, I won't change the oil and filter but every 2-3 years. And mostly, I only use Rotella, which is spectacular in dealing with year to year stuff in the oil.

This is not an issue of moronic stupidity... You simply pre-check, mid-check and post-check every ride. Basic intelligence.
 
Not going to happen... have done this for over 15 years and never had a single drop of a leak. Between the wife and I, we own 13 motorcycles and we ride them as much as we can. But when a bike only accumulates 400-500 miles a year, I won't change the oil and filter but every 2-3 years. And mostly, I only use Rotella, which is spectacular in dealing with year to year stuff in the oil.

This is not an issue of moronic stupidity... You simply pre-check, mid-check and post-check every ride. Basic intelligence.
There's always a first time for everything ... but you do you. A leak could happen while the bike is being ridden, so nobody is actively inspecting the filter while riding. If you're changing oil at 400-500 miles that's even another good reason not to disturb the filter. The clean oil in the filter isn't going to matter.
 
It allows the oil that's trapped between the media and can to flow through the center tube and drain out the center base plate hole. It works, I've done it for years on engines with the filter mounted vertical and base down. It needs to be done when the engine is hot, right after shutdown before doing an OCI.
I misunderstood Kira's question with my answer. Funny the Subaru FB filter is aways empty when I do an OC, must be air percolating up the center tube. Seems odd though that it would do that.
Maybe a hot, fuel diluted 20 grade is more than happy to leave the bearings and mains after shutdown.
 
The hole lets air in, sure. But doesn't the ADBV prevent the filter from draining?

Answer: no,
because: Physics. ;)
Air won't enter if oil isn't trying to displace. Likewise, oil won't drain out if air cannot enter to allow is displace. SOMETHING has to fill the volume.


It's worth mentioning that because ADBV work effectively as a check valve on the filter INLET (the outer holes) that ADBV cannot prevent a filter from draining out of the center tube or the clean side of the filter. It's an anti-drain BACK valve. Not anti-drain valve. The filter is allowed to drain oil if the oil is in the direction of nominal flow (out the center tube).

Nor can an ADBV prevent oil from flowing backwards through the media if another path for oil is introduced on that side of the media. (i.e. punching a hole).

If the filter is oriented plate-down, punching a hole in the end will allow air to enter and the oil on the dirty side will flow through the media the normal direction (slowly) and drain out the center.

If the filter is not inverted and mounted plate-up, then punching a hole in the bottom will drain the dirty side and clean side both, although the clean side oil will have to backflow through the media to do so. The ADBV was some "cracking pressure" that will keep it from allowing new oil into the filter, so some residual oil from the supply to the filter will still come out when you drop the filter.
 
I misunderstood Kira's question with my answer. Funny the Subaru FB filter is aways empty when I do an OC, must be air percolating up the center tube. Seems odd though that it would do that.
Maybe a hot, fuel diluted 20 grade is more than happy to leave the bearings and mains after shutdown.
I find the "good one" tokyo roki, is about half to 3 quarters full of oil in it after a couple minutes. Frams have not much left.
Overnight I doubt any are holding much oil?
The car always has a moment of timing chain rattle on the first start of the day with any filter.

The Outback gets a new filter each time, the Focus most of the time, but if I thought I had one, and don't, and the car is on the ramps, that filter stays in for round two!
 
I misunderstood Kira's question with my answer. Funny the Subaru FB filter is aways empty when I do an OC, must be air percolating up the center tube. Seems odd though that it would do that.
Maybe a hot, fuel diluted 20 grade is more than happy to leave the bearings and mains after shutdown.
Subarus seem to have a tendency to empty the base down vertically mounted filter - so it can be associated with oiling system design. If a filter that's mounted vertically base down drains out it's either a leaky ADBV and/or it's draining out through the center tube. This is also why some engines (rare cases) specify a filter with a stand pipe or a check valve built into the center tube. That aftermarket Baxter kit exists for Subarus to keep the oil in place. Been some long threads about that whole issue and the Baxter kit. I've had/have two engines (Mazda RX-7 and Tacoma) with a vertical base down oil filter, and I have to punch a hole in the dome to let it drain before removing it or else it pukes oil all over the place.
 
Last edited:
Here's a test I did on the ADBV on a PureOne. I removed the filter from the engine when the oil was still pretty hot and set the filter base down in a funnel. I let it sit there undisturbed for a whole week, then jammed some folded over Q-tips in the base inlet holes to open the ADBV and let the oil drain for a day. All the oil you see in the glass bottle is what was held inside the filter for a week. The oil did not leak out through the media and out the center tube without the ADBV opened up some. If I would have punched a hole in the dome instead of opening the ADBV, it would have also drained out when ATM pressure was allowed inside the filter dome, but drain out would much slower since the oil was at room temperature and would have to move through the filter media. When a hole is punched in the dome while still on the engine and the oil is hot, the filter will drain out pretty fast, like around 15 minutes and not spill a drop when removed from the engine.

Go down to where it says "Drainage setup for the filter to test the ADBV."

 
If the filter is not inverted and mounted plate-up, then punching a hole in the bottom will drain the dirty side and clean side both, although the clean side oil will have to backflow through the media to do so. The ADBV was some "cracking pressure" that will keep it from allowing new oil into the filter, so some residual oil from the supply to the filter will still come out when you drop the filter.
I tried punching a hole in the Coyote filter dome end which is mounted base up at about a 45-degree angle. The oil just barely dripped out even when still pretty hot, so in order for this to maybe work effectively I'd probably have to drill a pretty big hole in the dome end. Think I even punch a couple additional small holes and it didn't help much. I didn't try drilling a big hole, so instead came up with a way to use heavy aluminum foil to build a temporary drain shield to catch all the oil from the base of the filter as the filter was unscrewed.

Even with a much larger hole in the dome, it still might not drain the clean side and all the clean oil in the gallery above the filter that would have to go through the media, That's because that column of oil would essentially act like when you stick a straw in liquid then put your finger over the open end of the straw and pull it out of the liquid. The liquid stays in the straw until you remove your finger and allow the ATM pressure to act on the liquid. Maybe I'll try drilling a 1/4 inch hole in the filter dome end on the next oil change and see how that works.
 
Media can be hard to flow through when wet. It's like trying to breathe through a saturated washcloth. So it doesn't surprise me that you're finding the soaked media to be essential oil-tight.
 
Back
Top Bottom