White chunks in brand new Quaker State oil.

As annoying this might be for the dedicated BITOG member it's nothing compared to what the Global steel makers disclaim about their product. The world's steel makers - all of them - disclaim internal inclusion & contamination failures up to 2% of their product because it comes from the.........earth. That means that anyone making parts from earth sourced steel has an automatic 20,000 ppm failure potential when their end customer demand ZERO ppm.
If this is something they've disclosed as you say, their customers should be aware. If not, how did you become aware of this?
 
If this is something they've disclosed as you say, their customers should be aware. If not, how did you become aware of this?
I worked in the business side of Automotive, spent most and best time in purchasing, buying all the steel the company used for the production of stamped metal parts and welded assemblies. The OEM's will never address this issue as by the time the metal parts arrive at the car build, the inclusion containing steel parts have usually been found and discarded. I've seen a Toyota reach end of assembly when a split B pillar was discovered. The CEO of the plant ensured this car was completely scrapped. And this same Toyota plant stamped the bad part. Cost of doing business with Earth sourced raw materials.
 
I've seen similar white sediment on the bottom of a few different manufacturers oils that have sat in my stash for a while. One that comes to mind was SM rated Havoline 5w30 conventional (dino) oil a few years ago. I cut the containers down (to better access the sediment) and mixed it up using a little oil and my finger (because shaking the container didn't do much to mix it) and poured it into our 2008 Elantra....it didn't cause any issues at all.

While it is unusual that this oil is only a few months old with such 'fallout'....I'm with those who believe it is additive fallout and will mix fine in use causing no problems.
 
Thats definitely a quality control issue even if this is harmless.
That doesn’t really make sense. If it’s harmless that means the quality is fine.

If it’s a quality control issue there would be a test required to determine it was ok or not, and if it passed, then it’s harmless.

Companies don’t tend to bother measuring things that aren’t quality control issues; it’s a waste of money, time, and value.
 
Have never seen anything but oil in jugs and bottles …
Probably lean towards taking it back like for like …
Agree with exchange. But by the time one does that, and the gas it took to get it there (one’s time and travel cost money), the supposed bargain they supposedly got has evaporated. Repeat that a few times, along with always wondering if some other quality issue exists, and all of a sudden those more expensive, custom oils that many people initially balk at suddenly become a value proposition.

There’s an incalculable value of knowing the product is correct and the same from batch to batch, and is made with materials superior to what’s found on a WM shelf. Add in the fact that two of these higher-quality oil manufacturers are board sponsors, and that a majority of the threads started in the oil sections are “what’s the best oil for…?”, you’d think we’d see more threads teaching people how to safely stretch OCIs based on data, and not their emotions.

Because most of the data on the site shows very few engines and use profiles are truly at the limits of ALL available oils; it’s that shelf oils that are at their limits of what can be done for $5/quart, not what can be done period. And that’s a big difference.
 
Agree with exchange. But by the time one does that, and the gas it took to get it there (one’s time and travel cost money), the supposed bargain they supposedly got has evaporated. Repeat that a few times, along with always wondering if some other quality issue exists, and all of a sudden those more expensive, custom oils that many people initially balk at suddenly become a value proposition.

There’s an incalculable value of knowing the product is correct and the same from batch to batch, and is made with materials superior to what’s found on a WM shelf. Add in the fact that two of these higher-quality oil manufacturers are board sponsors, and that a majority of the threads started in the oil sections are “what’s the best oil for…?”, you’d think we’d see more threads teaching people how to safely stretch OCIs based on data, and not their emotions.

Because most of the data on the site shows very few engines and use profiles are truly at the limits of ALL available oils; it’s that shelf oils that are at their limits of what can be done for $5/quart, not what can be done period. And that’s a big difference.
Eventually when the Jeep’s out of PT warranty bcs we know that motor does not dilute … have lots of SP stash at the moment anyway …
 
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