Which rust converter for 2 places on this box truck?

[atikovi]

I see this stuff by 3M has great reviews:

And I have used POR15 before:

Want to clean up the year bumper and would top coat with Rustolium and a brush:

And spots on the roof I'll top with matching white spray paint:

Any suggestions which is better and how to apply?

 

[paoester]

I've heard of what the 3513 stuff above does: "converts rust to primer".
Anybody know the chemical reaction happening here? Iron oxide -----> to what?

Edit: I did find this https://www.homedepot.com/p/Corroseal-Rust-Converter-Primer-82320/202960538
that says you get Magnetite from the rust iron oxide. I guess that is better!

So thats Fe2O3 to Fe3O4, ok, not as crusty and might not fall off like rust (??)

 

[wdn]

I use Corroseal rust converter with great results on truck undercarriage. It goes on white and reacts with rust, and dries black and shiny. The rust is not breaking through again more than a year later. I heard about Corroseal from one of the members here. Also good on garden tools and the like, my rusty black mailbox, etc. Corroseal is available in 1 gallon jugs

 

[Donald]

Get the roof down to bare metal and then prime and paint.

Not sure you will have much luck with the bumper as most rust treatments tend to end up with a hard shell to prevent oxygen from getting to the rust. That is certainly what POR-15 does. Jumping on the bumper or dragging stuff on it will ruin this hard shell.

For the bumper I would wire brush the rust, prime and coat with something like pickup bed liner. My guess is you will need to deal with the bumper every few years. Which I do not think is a big deal.

 

[Fawteen]

Personally on an old box truck I wouldn't worry about either of those issues. The roof rust looks like it extends under the windshield rubber which will eventually become an issue. The bumper is made for banging around. It takes a lot of abuse when loading or unloading, especially if you're bumping a dock. You also don't want anything on that bumper that will be slick when it's rainy or some of that white stuff ya'll get falls on it.

 

[Californiabob]

I used PQR15 on a dent that started to show a rust layer. without sanding, priming, painting, clear coating
I simply painted with PQR15 over the whole area then applied touchup paint.

the car spent 6 years in the rust/snow belts of the Midwest and is still holding up.


I'd use PQR15 if it hasn't rusted through, and both sides if possible.

 

[atikovi]

Originally Posted by Fawteen
The roof rust looks like it extends under the windshield rubber which will eventually become an issue. The bumper is made for banging around. It takes a lot of abuse when loading or unloading, especially if you're bumping a dock.


That's why I want to take care of it now before it becomes an issue, and just so it looks better.

 

[PimTac]

So is this a flipper? You haven't done this before?

 

[LeakySeals]

I've used corroseal. It's pretty good stuff. Easy to deal with. You can rinse off the brushes and use it again. But once you open it you need to use the jug within 6 months or it starts to degrade. Used por - 15. Difficult to use. Destroys everything it touches. Tends to fade in the Sun if not coated. Imo over rated. And I've also used Rust-Oleum rust reformer. The white spray can with the chair and the one in the brown can that sometimes says Automotive on it.. There is a difference. Go for the white can with the black chair lol. It's got an extra ingredient called tannic I believe that was the name. There is a test somewhere on the internet that explained the difference tannic makes I think that was the right word. But I would just use that it's readily available and it doesn't go bad. And it's going to work well with your Rustoleum Overcoat

 

[atikovi]

Originally Posted by PimTac
So is this a flipper? You haven't done this before?


Most everything is a flipper but I've had it 5 years now so maybe not.

 

[Fawteen]

Originally Posted by atikovi
Originally Posted by Fawteen
The roof rust looks like it extends under the windshield rubber which will eventually become an issue. The bumper is made for banging around. It takes a lot of abuse when loading or unloading, especially if you're bumping a dock.


That's why I want to take care of it now before it becomes an issue, and just so it looks better.

You really aren't taking care of anything unless you remove the windshield and fix it right. If it's under the windshield seal then it's already become an issue.

 

[atikovi]

If I get some of the product under the molding to seal it, it's better than nothing.

 

[kschachn]

Yes, if it is under the windshield on the pinch weld then nothing will fix without removal. I had to do that on my old Sienna. Fortunately the weld was still sound so I removed all the rust and epoxy primed the weld. That has been three years ago and so far so good.

 

[Jarlaxle]

POR15 is my go-to.

 

[zzyzzx]

Rust really isn't that bad in the Baltimore - DC area, and usually Rustoleum rusty metal primer works great. Now if I lived someplace where stuff rusts more I might need something better. I have to wonder if that truck pictured came from someplace else where stuff rusts more, or is really old since stuff normally doesn't rust like that around here.

 

[TiredTrucker]

I have been using Rust Store's rust converter for many years on my commercial vehicles and other equipment. I like the stuff. The link is for the aerosol version but there is also liquid versions available.

https://www.theruststore.com/Rust-Converter-Aerosol-P292C10.aspx