Which oil with mmo?

[electrolover]

one thing is for sure, you cant beat the price of mmo.
but i wonder if a man can have the same results with PP or PU?
i know i have a pretty clean 4.0 after 10 with PP at 3k ocis. extremely clean!!

 

[badtlc]

Originally Posted By: PontiacFan
Originally Posted By: badtlc

As for ARX, it will clean your ring packs and restore compression if it was down due to dirty rings.


MMO will also clean your ring packs and restore compression.


It did no such thing for me and I haven't seen anyone post actual data suggesting otherwise.

 

[giantjoebot]

Omg sorry, a pint is half a quart. I feel so dumb.

I can't look down the hole where you put the oil in because there is a thing in the way. I was told its to keep oil from splashing up.

I am just speculating on the sludge, mainly due to the tick.

Its in the shop right now. Needed some adjustment to the timing and throttle. They said it needs a new fan clutch, which makes sense since the fan was running at start up, and it was running a little on the cold side. I suppose that the tick could be from the oil never getting to the correct temp, but I'm still going to run some mmo through it. Won't hurt right?

Also going to give it some redline or gumout regaine, and then have have the fuel filter replaced after I finish the tank. Tried to replace the fuel filter myself, and what a pain it was to get to. I think I'll just have a mechanic do it.

 

[demarpaint]

Originally Posted By: badtlc
Originally Posted By: PontiacFan
Originally Posted By: badtlc

As for ARX, it will clean your ring packs and restore compression if it was down due to dirty rings.


MMO will also clean your ring packs and restore compression.


It did no such thing for me and I haven't seen anyone post actual data suggesting otherwise.


I posted about my brothers 250 I6 boat engine, MMO did the trick in that engine. You can also search the www. Kreen cleans ring packs too, it does a fine job. It works faster than MMO.

 

[ltslimjim]

Originally Posted By: giantjoebot

I can't look down the hole where you put the oil in because there is a thing in the way. I was told its to keep oil from splashing up.


This doesn't make sense. You should be able to remove a stock type of cap that covers the fill hole and simply re-insert once you've checked under it as far as you can see with the help of a good flashlight. It sounds like someone is scaring you from even touching your vehicle. Just open the cap where you would put in the oil(not at the dipstick of course)...

...and yes, using MMO as directed on the bottle or even just for the last 500-1,000 miles of a 3k mile oil change would help.

 

[giantjoebot]

I'll give it a try when I get it back from the shop. No one is scaring me from touching my vehicle. When I drained the oil I noticed that there was still old oil in the fill hole, and so I asked about it and was told that there is a metal thing, sorry forget what its called, under the fill hole, and that its there to prevent oil from splashing. Not sure if thats the actual function, but there is something under the fill hole and the oil poors over it and off to the sides. Its weird I know, never seen one like that before, but its there. I'll try and get a flash light in there, but I doubt I'll be able to see much.

As for the fuel filter, I can't even see it, its on the side of the engine under a bunch of stuff. I had to follow the fuel line to find it, and I had to verify that it was the fuel filter by touch.

When searching for Kreen, found out that you can't get it in California. I am going to Reno in a week, maybe I could find some there.

 

[ltslimjim]

Strange. I think I know what you are talking about, it may be aftermarket or could have come originally with the vehicle. Some cars are more prone to splashing oil I suppose, but I'd be curious to know if your vehicle came with that under the filler cap.

 

[demarpaint]

It is probably some type of baffle under the fill hole. Most likely if that is coated in varnish anything added to the oil is going to have little to no impact with regard to getting it clean. In order to tell if the valve train is clean he'd probably have to pull a valve cover, or get some kind of flexible scope and try to work it around the baffle and have a look.

 

[Boss302fan]

Originally Posted By: ltslimjim
Originally Posted By: giantjoebot
A whole pint, I don't know seems like a bit much. I think I'll try half a pint first.

What about Auto-rx. I was planning on using it the oil change after this one.


A pint is the half quart you mentioned earlier. At your next oil change, put in 4 Quarts of any brand conventional, and then use a Pint of MMO to bring you up to full on the dipstick. Stick to shorter OCI for cleaning benefits, I say 3k and then drop it.


DITTO... PYB because it cleans very well plus the pint of MMO. Do a couple of 3K OCI's this way and you should be good to go...

Worse case you can follow up this with 3K OCI's and just add the MMO the last 1K of all your following oil changes... I know guys that have done this for 30 years and there engines still run at over 300K miles.

 

[badtlc]

Originally Posted By: demarpaint


I posted about my brothers 250 I6 boat engine, MMO did the trick in that engine. You can also search the www. Kreen cleans ring packs too, it does a fine job. It works faster than MMO.


That sounds great. How much did compression improve with the MMO? How much was fuel consumption reduced? It would be nice to finally get some proof MMO does anything for the ring packs.

 

[giantjoebot]

I think it is called a baffle. The part of it that I can see looks pretty clean.

If I pull the valve cover, won't I have to replace the gasket?

 

[ltslimjim]

Originally Posted By: giantjoebot
I think it is called a baffle. The part of it that I can see looks pretty clean.

If I pull the valve cover, won't I have to replace the gasket?


Possibly, if you see any leaks currently yes you would want too, otherwise how long ago before it was last replaced?

 

[PontiacFan]

Originally Posted By: badtlc
Originally Posted By: PontiacFan
Originally Posted By: badtlc

As for ARX, it will clean your ring packs and restore compression if it was down due to dirty rings.


MMO will also clean your ring packs and restore compression.


It did no such thing for me and I haven't seen anyone post actual data suggesting otherwise.


I have not seen any data that auto-rx actually cleans ring packs, just alot of hype with no testing, then again I have seen no testing from MMO, everything with arx seems like 3rd party tests, lets just say anything to sell this product.

So it seems MMO and auto-rx are alot alike in that there are no tests. The only thing we have is users testimonials, and from what I can see at this time it seems that MMO is a better product than auto-rx.

It sure seems like there are more satisfied users of MMO than there are of auto-rx.

No flame war, use whatever product you want, but I am going to stick with the cheaper product that gives better results in my opinion, in this economy and with gas prices increasing everyday, I want the best bang for my buck, and that is MMO.

 

[electrolover]

agreed but i have had alot better results with kreen, its just a pain because you have to order it

 

[demarpaint]

Originally Posted By: badtlc
Originally Posted By: demarpaint


I posted about my brothers 250 I6 boat engine, MMO did the trick in that engine. You can also search the www. Kreen cleans ring packs too, it does a fine job. It works faster than MMO.


That sounds great. How much did compression improve with the MMO? How much was fuel consumption reduced? It would be nice to finally get some proof MMO does anything for the ring packs.



Here's my proof, believe it if you like. My bother and I used MMO in countless 1 cyl 4 stroke engines pulled from the trash and brought them back to life over the years as well. Some smoked like mad. Some were beyond repair, others responded well to MMO, and some use, or a piston soak with MMO. I had good luck with a smoking engine with Lubro Moly too.


https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/posts/1941696/

 

[badtlc]

Originally Posted By: demarpaint


Here's my proof, believe it if you like. My bother and I used MMO in countless 1 cyl 4 stroke engines pulled from the trash and brought them back to life over the years as well. Some smoked like mad. Some were beyond repair, others responded well to MMO, and some use, or a piston soak with MMO. I had good luck with a smoking engine with Lubro Moly too.


https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/posts/1941696/


Thanks. Guess I'll try it in a boat engine next time.

 

[badtlc]

Originally Posted By: PontiacFan

I have not seen any data that auto-rx actually cleans ring packs, just alot of hype with no testing, then again I have seen no testing from MMO, everything with arx seems like 3rd party tests, lets just say anything to sell this product.

So it seems MMO and auto-rx are alot alike in that there are no tests. The only thing we have is users testimonials, and from what I can see at this time it seems that MMO is a better product than auto-rx.

It sure seems like there are more satisfied users of MMO than there are of auto-rx.

No flame war, use whatever product you want, but I am going to stick with the cheaper product that gives better results in my opinion, in this economy and with gas prices increasing everyday, I want the best bang for my buck, and that is MMO.


Wow....just wow. At least you make it obvious you'll ignore whatever you need to in order to justify your opinion. Who the heck ignores 3rd party tests? Those are what people beg for (sane people anyway).

 

[giantjoebot]

Well I got my truck back from the shop. The timing was way off, it was at 11 and it was suppose to be 5.

Changed out the fan clutch myself to save money. It had to be the easiest part I have ever replaced on a vehicle.

Changed the oil again, and it was black, even though it had only been driven less than 5 miles since I did it the other day. There was some gold colored oil at the end, but for the most part black.

Put in the mmo and after idling for 15 minutes or so it still had a tick. Guess I will see with time if it helps.

It was running cold before I change the fan clutch, and after it got to normal temp, but after changing the oil it was running slightly cold when I tried to idle it. I wonder if thats due to the oil change, or if I need to look into something like the thermostat.

Oh and in response to when is the last time the valve cover gasket was change, I don't know I just bought the it a week ago.

I'm thinking that I might try changing the oil a little more ofter, maybe every 2000 to 2500 miles.

I'm going to drink a beer, eat, take a shower and pass out for a few hours before I have to go to work tonight. It will be my first time taking the truck. 70 miles round trip, 5 nights a week.

 

[electrolover]

Originally Posted By: giantjoebot
Well I got my truck back from the shop. The timing was way off, it was at 11 and it was suppose to be 5.

Changed out the fan clutch myself to save money. It had to be the easiest part I have ever replaced on a vehicle.

Changed the oil again, and it was black, even though it had only been driven less than 5 miles since I did it the other day. There was some gold colored oil at the end, but for the most part black.

Put in the mmo and after idling for 15 minutes or so it still had a tick. Guess I will see with time if it helps.

It was running cold before I change the fan clutch, and after it got to normal temp, but after changing the oil it was running slightly cold when I tried to idle it. I wonder if thats due to the oil change, or if I need to look into something like the thermostat.

Oh and in response to when is the last time the valve cover gasket was change, I don't know I just bought the it a week ago.

I'm thinking that I might try changing the oil a little more ofter, maybe every 2000 to 2500 miles.

I'm going to drink a beer, eat, take a shower and pass out for a few hours before I have to go to work tonight. It will be my first time taking the truck. 70 miles round trip, 5 nights a week.



good idea! no matter what anyone else says.

 

[TurboJim]

Originally Posted By: giantjoebot
I got a 1991 Toyota pickup with 22re engine and 120k on it.


If you don't know when the lifters were last adjusted I'd put that on the "to do" list.