which oil to try next in 2011 Sonata?

[maximus]

I've got a 2011 Sonata with a minor consumption issue-about a quart every 4k. The engine has 65k miles. After this run of PU, I'd like to try something else. I was attracted to PU for the low noack but I don't think its helping so if this is the case, I don't want to bother with expensive syns. So which one?

PYB (have used previously)
QSGB
Maxlife(loved this in a previous vehicle)
VWB
Motorcraft

I'm looking to do no less than 5k intervals.

 

[SatinSilver]

Hi,

1. MaxLife

2. MC syn-blend/QS

3. PYB - since you've tried it before and it might be good to try some new oils to see if you experience a difference for the better.

 

[901Memphis]

Switching in itself will sometimes cause consumption. Give each oil 3 in a row before you give up. If your lucky enough to have PU available, stock up and use it while you can.

 

[Red91]

How about Defy?

 

[Astro14]

Whatever you can find on sale....

Seriously. I look for bargains, then run 'em!

 

[Eddie]

1 quart in 4K is not terrible but, not good either. Does the usage slow down as the miles pile up? What happens if you go the full 5K miles without adding? If it is only a few MM below the add line, then forget it. I see you're in TX so maybe a HM PYB OR HM Max-Life oil would be worth a try.

 

[dlundblad]

I would try Maxlife or Defy. Maybe even M1 HM..

 

[leroyd92]

Next oil change in my 97f150 will be supertech synthetic... there's lots of good about it on here

 

[wemay]

Originally Posted By: maximus
I've got a 2011 Sonata with a minor consumption issue-about a quart every 4k. The engine has 65k miles. After this run of PU, I'd like to try something else. I was attracted to PU for the low noack but I don't think its helping so if this is the case, I don't want to bother with expensive syns. So which one?

PYB (have used previously)
QSGB
Maxlife(loved this in a previous vehicle)
VWB
Motorcraft


My exact concerns; short (
https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php/topics/3217511/1/D.I.,_oci_more_important_than_

 

[SF0059]

MS5K

 

[maximus]

If I let it go 5k without any attention, it would be down to 3 quarts. A member on the Hyundai board I look at is a tech at a dealer and he says they come in frequently with dry dipsticks. I'm very diligent about checking fluids so mine will never get that low, but it would sure be nice to be able to change only twice a year.

Any more votes for Maxlife? This is what I'm leaning towards. Or maybe 50:50 maxlife/PYB to get the best of both worlds.

 

[Errtt]

Originally Posted By: 901Memphis
Switching in itself will sometimes cause consumption. Give each oil 3 in a row before you give up. If your lucky enough to have PU available, stock up and use it while you can.

When I switched to PP, I had to add for the 1st couple fills during the run duration, now the level barely dips below the full mark on 5k OCIs. No more adding. [2010 Hyundai 2.4L]

 

[wemay]

Originally Posted By: maximus
If I let it go 5k without any attention, it would be down to 3 quarts. A member on the Hyundai board I look at is a tech at a dealer and he says they come in frequently with dry dipsticks. I'm very diligent about checking fluids so mine will never get that low, but it would sure be nice to be able to change only twice a year.

Any more votes for Maxlife? This is what I'm leaning towards. Or maybe 50:50 maxlife/PYB to get the best of both worlds.


I would think twice a year oci's is out of the question for our applications

. If not using a synthetic, VML, VWB, MS5K, PYB, GTX, QSGB, DEFY(if your warranty allows SL [my manual does so I assume yours does as well])... At sub 4K mile oci, would all be fine.

 

[maximus]

My hopes aren't high if I need a warranty claim. Hyundai is notorious for denying them. The 10yr 100k warranty is a marketing gimmick.

 

[wemay]

Well, that surely is one way of looking at it.

 

[maximus]

Originally Posted By: Errtt
Originally Posted By: 901Memphis
Switching in itself will sometimes cause consumption. Give each oil 3 in a row before you give up. If your lucky enough to have PU available, stock up and use it while you can.

When I switched to PP, I had to add for the 1st couple fills during the run duration, now the level barely dips below the full mark on 5k OCIs. No more adding. [2010 Hyundai 2.4L]


Your engine is not direct injected. I believe the consumption is attributed to my engine being DI somehow.

 

[BrianC]

Originally Posted By: maximus
I've got a 2011 Sonata with a minor consumption issue-about a quart every 4k. The engine has 65k miles. After this run of PU, I'd like to try something else. I was attracted to PU for the low noack but I don't think its helping so if this is the case, I don't want to bother with expensive syns. So which one?

PYB (have used previously)
QSGB
Maxlife(loved this in a previous vehicle)
VWB
Motorcraft

I'm looking to do no less than 5k intervals.


Just curious, have you been using 5w-20 or 5w30? The reason I ask is due to the fuel dilution issue with this engine. My opinion is a 5w30 is the best option for this engine.

I've had a 2012 GLS, drove to 18,000 miles ...totaled in a rear end crash. I now have a 2013 with 12,000 miles, use/used 5w30 in both. no consumption issues yet. I too do 5000 oci. Currently M1. I know my mileage on this is much less than yours, but my thought was the 5w-20 may not handle the fuel dilution over the long haul. Of course the 5w30 may not as well.

 

[Merkava_4]

Mobil Super 5000

 

[maximus]

Its used 5w20 most of its life, but the last two fills were 10w30 and 5w30. I'm not afraid to use 5w20 when speced, but I agree about the fuel dilution issue. I'll probably continue to use 5w30 for the duration.

 

[salv]

Originally Posted By: maximus
My hopes aren't high if I need a warranty claim. Hyundai is notorious for denying them. The 10yr 100k warranty is a marketing gimmick.


This statement is ignorant and 100% false. If anything, Hyundai warranties more than they should have to.
10yr/100k is powertrain only. That means engine, transmission, wheel bearings, drive axles, drive shaft, carrier bearing, power coupler, differential, crank pulley, timing chain, and water pump. Nothing else, because nothing else is part of the powertrain. Sensors are not included because they are not part of the powertrain.
I work in Hyundai service, and I have seen Hyundai warranty an engine that came in with no oil in it, no oil leaks, and an OEM filter that was almost completely rusted. We had done the last service on the car 25k prior. I asked for proof of service. The customer came in with handwritten slips that had consecutive invoice numbers, but were dated 3 months apart. I faxed the obvious forgeries to our Hyundai rep. He instructed us to replace the motor.
Anyways, use any inexpensive API SN/GF-5 or ACEA A5/B5 (preferred) oil.