Which Oil - Hyundai Theta Engines?

[knerml]

Given that Hyundai/Kia has been having issues with their Theta engine (2.4 & 2.0T) connecting rod bearings, can oil selection mitigate this?

Hyundai specifies either 5W30 or 5W40 oil (5W30 preferred) for my 2.0T. I am using synthetic regardless.

Do we know the root cause of this potential bearing problem?

Thanks.

 

[Danno]

They claim the oil passages had debris left in from manufacturing. True cause? Its speculation.
I had a 2013 2.4L until it was in a write off crash.
I would use a top branded 5w30 synthetic, use an OE filter, change the oil at 6,000 miles max (in Canada, the OCI is 3,750miles for the 2.4L) and I wouldn't worry about it, as at this time, there is nothing else to do.
I lean towards PP oil.

 

[MParr]

Either the 5w30 or 5w40 will be fine. Change at 5,000 miles. They recently had a recall for ECU/knock sensor. I am beginning to think that fuel may be a component of some of the engine failures. The Theta engines have an 11 to 1 compression ratio. I don't think 87 octane is a good idea in those engines. Those things should be burning 93 octane.

 

[69Torino]

This has been discussed at length on this forum, searching should yield many results and much useful info. I have contributed in many of the threads regarding the Hyundai and Kia engine debacle, as I was a Kia Master Elite technician from the start of all the madness. I've replaced countless number of 2.4 GDI Kia engines. I have my opinions.

To answer your question, as to oil selection mitigating the issue, the short answer is no. Using an approved oil will not prevent the failure if it is remotely eminent. Take a few moments and search with the right keywords, even on Google with adding "bitog" to your search. Hope this helps.

 

[JustinH]

I don't think oil weight is so important.

Checking the oil and changing it per severe schedule is what I have been doing.

Also oil needs to be checked weekly on these things, mine has always used oil.

I have been using 5w20 Pennzoil or Valvoline, whatever the quick lube has at 3750 intervals.

Fuel is very important, I still get slight pinging at 89 octane.

There is a recall for an ECU update, which may adjust knock sensor, etc.

 

[KCJeep]

This is a mechanical issue, no oil is going to save it. But I'd be using a D1G2 oil in a GDI engine none the less.

 

[OilUzer]

If oil selection could have resolve any issues, it would have been recommended or specified in the OM.

We have 2.4 and I've used dino (iirc 3 different brands but mostly chevron supreme) and 2 different synthetic (PP and Mobil 1 Extended Performance) ... car has about 70K miles and runs smooth. I am not afraid of any oil conventional or synthetic ... With dino, I reduce the oci. With syn, the color takes much longer to turn black. All our other cars with non gdi engines, the oil NEVER gets this dark!

 

[1JZ_E46]

I would think this is a situation where HTHS matters. Perhaps a higher HTHS (non-GF5) oil would be good.

 

[WhizkidTN]

Originally Posted by 69Torino
This has been discussed at length on this forum, searching should yield many results and much useful info. I have contributed in many of the threads regarding the Hyundai and Kia engine debacle, as I was a Kia Master Elite technician from the start of all the madness. I've replaced countless number of 2.4 GDI Kia engines. I have my opinions.

To answer your question, as to oil selection mitigating the issue, the short answer is no. Using an approved oil will not prevent the failure if it is remotely eminent. Take a few moments and search with the right keywords, even on Google with adding "bitog" to your search. Hope this helps.


FWIW: I recently had my 76K mile 2.0T engine develop the "rod knock of death" and got a free factory replacement with a forever warranty. I did excellent maintenance on this car/engine and hoped that I too would not be bitten by the problem but I was. From the tech's I spoke to, there is a strong suspicion that the oil pump/balance shaft assembly has a design defect which results in poor oil flow at some point during the service life being the root cause of the eventual rod knock and not the supposed initial engine debris issue. They also said that this assembly had been revised and my new motor should be good for as long as I want to drive it.

 

[wemay]

We're approaching 150k miles on our Santa Fe Sport...no issues to report.

We've used 5w30 conventional and 15w40 (hdeo), syn 5w/10w30 and 5w40.

87 and 93 oct.

never gone past 5k miles with syn or 3k miles with dino.

 

[turnbowm]

Originally Posted by WhizkidTN
Originally Posted by 69Torino
This has been discussed at length on this forum, searching should yield many results and much useful info. I have contributed in many of the threads regarding the Hyundai and Kia engine debacle, as I was a Kia Master Elite technician from the start of all the madness. I've replaced countless number of 2.4 GDI Kia engines. I have my opinions.

To answer your question, as to oil selection mitigating the issue, the short answer is no. Using an approved oil will not prevent the failure if it is remotely eminent. Take a few moments and search with the right keywords, even on Google with adding "bitog" to your search. Hope this helps.


FWIW: I recently had my 76K mile 2.0T engine develop the "rod knock of death" and got a free factory replacement with a forever warranty. I did excellent maintenance on this car/engine and hoped that I too would not be bitten by the problem but I was. From the tech's I spoke to, there is a strong suspicion that the oil pump/balance shaft assembly has a design defect which results in poor oil flow at some point during the service life being the root cause of the eventual rod knock and not the supposed initial engine debris issue. They also said that this assembly had been revised and my new motor should be good for as long as I want to drive it.

Most of the Kia engine failures seem to be concentrated in MY 2011-2014. It's interesting that Kia started using a redesigned oil pump/balance shaft assembly in MY 2015.

 

[ChemLabNL]

Originally Posted by 1JZ_E46
I would think this is a situation where HTHS matters. Perhaps a higher HTHS (non-GF5) oil would be good.


Yes - use a MB 229.5, A3/B3, or Dexos2.

 

[knerml]

Originally Posted by ChemLabNL
Originally Posted by 1JZ_E46
I would think this is a situation where HTHS matters. Perhaps a higher HTHS (non-GF5) oil would be good.


Yes - use a MB 229.5, A3/B3, or Dexos2.


Am currently using Castrol Edge 5W40 that meets MB 229.5 and A3/B4. So this oil is HTHS? I went this route because of my previous experience with Audi turbos.

 

[knerml]

Originally Posted by turnbowm
Originally Posted by WhizkidTN
Originally Posted by 69Torino
This has been discussed at length on this forum, searching should yield many results and much useful info. I have contributed in many of the threads regarding the Hyundai and Kia engine debacle, as I was a Kia Master Elite technician from the start of all the madness. I've replaced countless number of 2.4 GDI Kia engines. I have my opinions.

To answer your question, as to oil selection mitigating the issue, the short answer is no. Using an approved oil will not prevent the failure if it is remotely eminent. Take a few moments and search with the right keywords, even on Google with adding "bitog" to your search. Hope this helps.


FWIW: I recently had my 76K mile 2.0T engine develop the "rod knock of death" and got a free factory replacement with a forever warranty. I did excellent maintenance on this car/engine and hoped that I too would not be bitten by the problem but I was. From the tech's I spoke to, there is a strong suspicion that the oil pump/balance shaft assembly has a design defect which results in poor oil flow at some point during the service life being the root cause of the eventual rod knock and not the supposed initial engine debris issue. They also said that this assembly had been revised and my new motor should be good for as long as I want to drive it.

Most of the Kia engine failures seem to be concentrated in MY 2011-2014. It's interesting that Kia started using a redesigned oil pump/balance shaft assembly in MY 2015.


To qualify this, the failures are related to GDIs made in US. My 2011 Sorento had a Korean made non-GDI 2.4 that was not in this campaign.

 

[ka9mnx]

Originally Posted by knerml

Am currently using Castrol Edge 5W40 that meets MB 229.5 and A3/B4. So this oil is HTHS? I went this route because of my previous experience with Audi turbos.

A3/B4 HTHS is >3.5. MB 229.5 is a tough spec so the Castrol 5w-40 (which meets these specs) you are using is an excellent choice according to some here. If 5w30 is the manufacturers preferred recommendation, and seeing it's a 2018, my choice would be a 5w30 ACEA A5/B5 (HTHS B5) or C3 (similar to A3/B3). A3/B3 is a stout oil. A5/B5 is a fuel economy oil. The "C" oils are similar to the "A" oils but for three-way-cat protection.

 

[69Torino]

Originally Posted by knerml
Originally Posted by turnbowm
Originally Posted by WhizkidTN
Originally Posted by 69Torino
This has been discussed at length on this forum, searching should yield many results and much useful info. I have contributed in many of the threads regarding the Hyundai and Kia engine debacle, as I was a Kia Master Elite technician from the start of all the madness. I've replaced countless number of 2.4 GDI Kia engines. I have my opinions.

To answer your question, as to oil selection mitigating the issue, the short answer is no. Using an approved oil will not prevent the failure if it is remotely eminent. Take a few moments and search with the right keywords, even on Google with adding "bitog" to your search. Hope this helps.


FWIW: I recently had my 76K mile 2.0T engine develop the "rod knock of death" and got a free factory replacement with a forever warranty. I did excellent maintenance on this car/engine and hoped that I too would not be bitten by the problem but I was. From the tech's I spoke to, there is a strong suspicion that the oil pump/balance shaft assembly has a design defect which results in poor oil flow at some point during the service life being the root cause of the eventual rod knock and not the supposed initial engine debris issue. They also said that this assembly had been revised and my new motor should be good for as long as I want to drive it.

Most of the Kia engine failures seem to be concentrated in MY 2011-2014. It's interesting that Kia started using a redesigned oil pump/balance shaft assembly in MY 2015.


To qualify this, the failures are related to GDIs made in US. My 2011 Sorento had a Korean made non-GDI 2.4 that was not in this campaign.


Everything stated here is correct. The non GDI 2.4 is a very different animal and not involved in the campaign. The balance shaft/oil pump assembly is redesigned and seems to be part of the fix. Oil sump capacity is increased as well. Not by much but it is more.

 

[OilUzer]

maybe I'm underestimating the power of oil, however I doubt any oil can fix any "balancing" issues!
I'm not an expert but it sounds like it would be above oil paygrade

like some argue about piston slap ...

experts advice needed!

 

[ChrisD46]

In my 2017 2.4L GD! Sonata I run PP D1/G2 5W30 with a Fram Ultra oil filter for 5K OCI's and 87 octane runs fine with the best gas mileage for my vehicle .