which of those oils has most esters?

[friendly_jacek]

Relax, I'm not saying ester is the best. I just need it as additive to my existing oil to experiment with piston slap.

Here are my alternatives:

Redline 10W30 NOACK 6%
AMSOIL Signature Series 10w30 NOAK 5.7%
Motul 300V 10W40 "double ester" NOAK not stated.

Thanks!

BTW, If one is familiar with pure ester additives (besides AutoRX), I will take it!

 

[TTK]

Lubegard Biotech engine supplement has their liquid wax ester in it.

 

[buster]

Redline has the most ester content in it (POE)

I would try Mobil 1 0w30 SN. It silenced the noisy 2.4L during winter use. Have to make sure it's the SN stuff though. There is something different with the Mobil 1 Advanced Fuel Economy oils vs the regular M1 line, which many have complained about in years past being a bit more noisy.

 

[friendly_jacek]

Thanks for the answers. I will look into the lubegaurd additive.
I also suspected RL was the best choice from the 3 oil.

 

[dailydriver]

We really do not know for sure (between Red Line and 300v at least), since NO manufacturers (let alone these two) will EVER give out POE/PAO/whatever percentages in their basestocks.

We can ONLY speculate/guess on this factor.

 

[boxcartommie22]

red line and motul 300v and like the above lubegard additives

 

[aquariuscsm]

What kind`ve car do you have? I read on here awhile back that grp II dinos are one of the most polar oils. Did you have piston slap with a good grp II oil?

 

[LineArrayNut]

Originally Posted By: dailydriver
We really do not know for sure (between Red Line and 300v at least), since NO manufacturers (let alone these two) will EVER give out POE/PAO/whatever percentages in their basestocks.

We can ONLY speculate/guess on this factor.

MPT30K is close... http://www.mptindustries.com/msds/MSDSThirty-KMotorOil.pdf

 

[fdcg27]

The cheap and usually FAR G-Oil is an ester basestock oil.
Why not give it a try?

 

[friendly_jacek]

Originally Posted By: fdcg27
The cheap and usually FAR G-Oil is an ester basestock oil.
Why not give it a try?


The G-oil doesn't behave like ester oil on my oilyzer analysis.

I gave this more though and I'm convinced even Redline oil is not pure ester, as pure esters used to create problems with seals and mineral oil compatibility.

I will probably give the Lebegard additive a try. i heard a lot of good things about it in transmissions, it may work in engine as well.

 

[A_Harman]

Red Line did nothing for the piston slap in my Camaro when I switched from M1 to RL.

 

[CATERHAM]

Originally Posted By: friendly_jacek
Originally Posted By: fdcg27


I'm convinced even Redline oil is not pure ester, as pure esters used to create problems with seals and mineral oil compatibility.

Red Line is on record claiming all their oils are POE/PAO blends so there is no "convincing" required.
Not sure for the preference of 10W oils (BTW Red Line 5w30 has the same HTHSV and NOACK so why their obsolete 10w30?)or even heavy 40wt oils as piston slap only happens when the engine is cold and even a 20wt is way heavier than necessary under such conditions.
Piston slap disappears in most engines as soon as the pistons expand sufficiently. I don't see how any motor oil is going to make a difference. If one does I'm sure we would have heard about by now.

 

[friendly_jacek]

Originally Posted By: CATERHAM

Red Line is on record claiming all their oils are POE/PAO blends so there is no "convincing" required.
Not sure for the preference of 10W oils (BTW Red Line 5w30 has the same HTHSV and NOACK so why their obsolete 10w30?)or even heavy 40wt oils as piston slap only happens when the engine is cold and even a 20wt is way heavier than necessary under such conditions.
Piston slap disappears in most engines as soon as the pistons expand sufficiently. I don't see how any motor oil is going to make a difference. If one does I'm sure we would have heard about by now.


Thanks for mentioning the POE/PAO blend. I was not aware they explicitly stated that. The redline 10W30 has lower NOACK than 5W30.

As for the piston slap, it does happen when pistons are cold and too small for the liner size.

Thicker oil benefits piston slap as it generates thicker oil film that resists knocking pressure. I'm hoping esters will do that too. Remember, engine oil EW package will not protect aluminum in the skirts.

There was a study about it, and I posted a link in the interesting papers forum.

 

[CATERHAM]

Originally Posted By: friendly_jacek
Originally Posted By: CATERHAM

Thanks for mentioning the POE/PAO blend. I was not aware they explicitly stated that. The redline 10W30 has lower NOACK than 5W30.

One thing RL won't tell you is what the POE % is other than to say it is the same for all their oils.
NOACK is 6% for both the 5w30 and 10w30 RL grades and as good as it is, I don't see how a low figure is relevant to reducing piston slap.

 

[boxcartommie22]

there is nothing posted by red line that says red line oils are a blend of poe/pao!! red line has very little pao in it...motu; 300v is all poe for its a racing oil and can be used as a street oil.i put at lease 2 qts of 300v with red line in my oil changes.

 

[dave1251]

I do not see how thicker oils would protect better, I do see how thicker oils would muffle the sound of the slap.

 

[CATERHAM]

Originally Posted By: boxcartommie22
there is nothing posted by red line that says red line oils are a blend of poe/pao!! red line has very little pao in it...motu; 300v is all poe for its a racing oil and can be used as a street oil.i put at lease 2 qts of 300v with red line in my oil changes.

I and others have discussed the matter with Dave at RL over the years trying to nail him down on the POE %. Dave's never said anything to me that implied their oils contained "very little PAO" it was always a "POE/PAO blend" not that it really matters.
BTW Motul 300V is POE based but rather Di-Ester.

 

[CATERHAM]

Correction, 300V is NOT POE based but rather Di-Ester.

 

[friendly_jacek]

By definition, thicker oil = thicker film = higher degree of hydrodynamic lubrication (basic law of tribology):

Higher degree of sound muffling means the metallic contact is avoided (see the image above). Common sense stuff.

 

[fdcg27]

Originally Posted By: friendly_jacek
Originally Posted By: fdcg27
The cheap and usually FAR G-Oil is an ester basestock oil.
Why not give it a try?


The G-oil doesn't behave like ester oil on my oilyzer analysis.

I gave this more though and I'm convinced even Redline oil is not pure ester, as pure esters used to create problems with seals and mineral oil compatibility.

I will probably give the Lebegard additive a try. i heard a lot of good things about it in transmissions, it may work in engine as well.

Unless GET is lying about the basestocks they use, it is an ester basestock oil.
I'd try it as a first resort if only because it may work, it's cheap, and so you haven't lost anything if it proves unsuited to your needs.
If the oils you've cited in your OP prove unsuited to your goal, then you've blown a lot of $$ finding this out.