Which brand(s) of rotors resist / disperse heat the best ?
- Thread starter odie
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OE.
This is why I'm thinking of spending the $$ and getting Toyota rotors and pads for my 4Runner. Why mess with success? Brakes should not be cheaped-out on.
These are Hyundai O.E.M. rotors that are likely warped . Prefer other .
It is probably your driving conditions and/or habits. Or a situation where the rotors are undersized for the application.
Rarely does a rotor warp. What it does do is get pad transfer on it, which is the result of a hot pad being held stationary on a hot rotor. In other words, moderate to hard braking to a dead stop and holding your foot on the brake.
My wife will forever have "warped" rotors, because husband is just being a nag.
My wife will forever have "warped" rotors, because husband is just being a nag.
I did not have success with the OEM front rotors on my 11 Tundra CM Ltd.
They began warping at 40k miles or so. No heavy towing. Replaced with Centric pads and rotors and
still no luck. The Centric rotors did not wear evenly, they looked scored after 20 k miles. Amazon sent me free replacements
on the rotors only. I purchased another set of Centric pads. I'm at 95k and the fronts, are again warped (Do not think it's a pad material issue as the shuddering is most prominent during high temperatures).
The rear rotors are original and appear fine.
I'm all ears for suggestions as I am going to do front and rear rotors/pads in the upcoming months.
They began warping at 40k miles or so. No heavy towing. Replaced with Centric pads and rotors and
still no luck. The Centric rotors did not wear evenly, they looked scored after 20 k miles. Amazon sent me free replacements
on the rotors only. I purchased another set of Centric pads. I'm at 95k and the fronts, are again warped (Do not think it's a pad material issue as the shuddering is most prominent during high temperatures).
The rear rotors are original and appear fine.
I'm all ears for suggestions as I am going to do front and rear rotors/pads in the upcoming months.
There are two different type of rotors.
#1 Rotors which slowly take on and slowly release heat. These are typically OE and heavy and resist warping. These are great for street driving because they take a lot longer to get really hot.
#2 "Performance" rotors. These heat up very fast but also shed that heat quickly. These are perfect for track environment because they need to shed heat before the next corner. There's no benefit on the street because speeds aren't high enough and there are lower instances of hard braking.
Usually OE rotors are the best bet, but if the brakes are undersized for the vehicle there's no stock rotor which can fix that.
#1 Rotors which slowly take on and slowly release heat. These are typically OE and heavy and resist warping. These are great for street driving because they take a lot longer to get really hot.
#2 "Performance" rotors. These heat up very fast but also shed that heat quickly. These are perfect for track environment because they need to shed heat before the next corner. There's no benefit on the street because speeds aren't high enough and there are lower instances of hard braking.
Usually OE rotors are the best bet, but if the brakes are undersized for the vehicle there's no stock rotor which can fix that.
Based on your two examples, the OE rotors 2x as long as the aftermarkets.
Less than 26,000 miles . It's an ACCENT .
What's your point? I regularly see cars with brake pedal pulsation issues or "warped rotors" with 20-40k miles from a variety of different brands. It is completely normal and just wear and tear.
Take a look at EBC.
The so called "warped rotor" in 99% of the cases is not a rotor warped from heat. Rather the rotor is no longer a uniform thickness. I suppose if the rotor was turned so it was thinner and the vanes were all clogged with rust then maybe it could warp from heat.
In the rust belt a coated rotor should withstand the heat better as its vanes should continue to act like real vanes rather than a rusty mess.
In the rust belt a coated rotor should withstand the heat better as its vanes should continue to act like real vanes rather than a rusty mess.
+1 what Silver said.
2 kinds of drivers, the jack rabbit that never times lights, tailgates, swerves thru traffic and gets to red light first (WINNING!) then hard brakes to a dead stop... baking the pads/rotors while sitting. The tortoise measures acceleration, times the lights and glides in behind rabbit as the light turns green barely touching the brakes. Which one likely warps rotors or fry's pads more often? My entire life Ive never had warped rotors or pads go less than 50k.
2 kinds of drivers, the jack rabbit that never times lights, tailgates, swerves thru traffic and gets to red light first (WINNING!) then hard brakes to a dead stop... baking the pads/rotors while sitting. The tortoise measures acceleration, times the lights and glides in behind rabbit as the light turns green barely touching the brakes. Which one likely warps rotors or fry's pads more often? My entire life Ive never had warped rotors or pads go less than 50k.
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The Centric Premium rotors I installed on my Accord were noticeably thicker and heavier than the OEM ones I replaced. I assumed the OEM rotors would be 'better' and was hesitant to replace them until I actually had them off the car to compare them.
Just my experience.
Zimmerman.
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