Which 5W-40 would you use....

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for a Honda S2000 2.0L motor?

I've narrowed it down to either Motul 300V Power, Redline, or Amsoil but the numbers on the spec sheet have me at a bit of a dilemma.

Here are each of the three in detail:

Motul(the ubb wouldn't allow a direct link because of parenthesis in the url so you'll have to click here and then click on 5W-40 to bring up the spec sheet)
http://www.motorspot.com/racingoils.html

Redline
http://www.redlineoil.com/pdf/4.pdf

Amsoil(click and scroll to bottom)
https://www.amsoil.com/storefront/afl.aspx

The motor has approx. 22k miles and has had Redline's 10W-30 in it for about the past 5k miles. The previous owner said that he switched over to the Redline at around the 12k mark and ran the first batch until 17k; which is why I'm thinking it might be good to go ahead and change now at 22k and get a UOA to see how things are going. Honda specs either 10w-30 or 5W-40 for the motor and since I'm having some minor consumption, about a half quart every 3k miles, I thought I'd try a 5W-40 to see if it slows that a bit.

Based on the numbers from the three above I'm concerned with the thickness I see in the Redline. I like the Amsoil's numbers but I'm apt to stick with an ester based oil since the Redline is in there now. I could be talked out of this though.
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The Motul's numbers look extremely good as well which is why I'm having this debate. I think the only thing that has kept me from ordering the 300V Power before now is it's lack of availability online.

I also took a look at Mobil 1's 5W-40 spec sheet but the numbers are even higher it seems in terms of thickness when compared with the Redline; but, perhaps I'm more worried about thickness than I need to be. Ironically it's the only oil they suggest if you go through their suggestion wizard. They've stopped suggesting their 10W-30 for some reason...possibly due to its thinness?

The M1 is definitely the easiest and cheapest for me to obtain but it doesn't look like it stacks up as well as the three others.

On a side note, all of M1's oils at Wallyworld are $4.88/qt. here but the 0W-40, 5W-30, and 10W-30 are all offered in cases for $29.98 which equates to $2.49/qt. Has anyone been able to buy the 5W-40 by the case at the $29.98 price? The local auto section employee told me he wouldn't do it because there is no bar code on the shelf for the 5W-40 like there is for the other three. Does that make any sense to anyone else? Why would I pay double for the 5W-40 when all the other grades are the same price per quart?
 
Is that 29.98 for a case of 12 or 6 quarts. I think 2.49 for any grade M1 is a mistake. At any rate I would have no problem using Mobil 1 5/40 in that motor for 5K interval. My second choice would be whichever is easier to get. Good luck and nice car.
 
Last time I checked, a case of M1 was 6 quarts, not 12. BTW, what about Shell Rotella synthetic 5w40. It sell for just over $12/gal and seems like a good oil.
 
I'd stick with the RL but if you do change, I'd use Amsoil's 5w-40 AFL.
 
Of the choices you listed, I'd try out the Motul. Can you get it locally? You didn't list it, but I'd also try out the new Schaeffer's 5w-40. I'm using the 15w-40 in my B16. Honda doesn't recommend 15w-40 above 20F? Heck, I got my viscosity chart for my B16 from Germany. Someone scanned it--it may be here somewhere. Which such a high-strung engine, I'd rather have a bit more protection than mpg.
 
Unless you plan on keeping that vehicle .. ie.. 1st & only owner, there's really no need to pay that much for oils like Red Line or Amsoil. Any name-brand synthetic will take that non-sludging vehicle to 300K with regular OCIs & a oil analysis when the exited used oil begins showing unusual looks or texture.
 
My choice of a 5w-40 would be Shell Rotella T Full Synthetic.

Cheap, available, good all round oil, it will make 5K miles with no sweat. Why spend all that money on Redline, Mobil 1? I have used it in everything, Dodge truck, Yanmar tractor, Yamaha 4str OB, Volvo 850, Chevy V-6, no problem with consumption. Because I serviced 6 different autos, I based the OCI on a time interval, 4 months. This converted to a mileage of about 4500 on the Volvo, 5000 Chevy, 3500 Dodge truck. The Yamaha OB was based on 50 hrs. The tractor was twice yearly.
 
I d highly recommend NOT running the Amsoil 5w-40 in this high rpm motor.... It' s too thick to give you the best performance and fuel efficiency. I'd run their regular 10w-30/ATM in this application unless you plan to autocross the car. In that case, I'd run the Series 2000, 0w-30 instead of the 10w-30.

TS
 
If warranty is an issue that you would worry about stick with an API approved 5W40. I think all the brands you mention are reputable so I doubt you could go wrong. I know AUtoZone has Castrol Syntec 5W40 wich might also be an option for you! I might be wrong but I think Motul,Amsoil and Redline are not API approved! While I am not an API nut I thought you should at least be aware of this! I tend to migrate towards non-API oils myself!!
 
quote:

My choice of a 5w-40 would be Shell Rotella T Full Synthetic.

Cheap, available, good all round oil, it will make 5K miles with no sweat. Why spend all that money on Redline, Mobil 1? I have used it in everything, Dodge truck, Yanmar tractor, Yamaha 4str OB, Volvo 850, Chevy V-6, no problem with consumption. Because I serviced 6 different autos, I based the OCI on a time interval, 4 months. This converted to a mileage of about 4500 on the Volvo, 5000 Chevy, 3500 Dodge truck. The Yamaha OB was based on 50 hrs. The tractor was twice yearly.

Since when if Rotella a full syn? I'm pretty sure it is a group III oil. Don't get me wrong it is a great oil IMO especially for the price but it isn't on the same level as amsoil/redline/mobile1. Valvo prem blue extreme is a group 3 also but is way more expensive. Rotella is a great oil if you don't want to spend the money for group IVs and don't do long OCI. Does anyone know where to get rotella in qts. I have only seen it in gallons and only at wally mart
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I'd also run a 5w-40 if I lived in texas too despite what TS says. Choose your oil and OCI depending on your oil operating temps, and engine/car life expectancy. All M1 oils are 6 to a case and $4+ per qt at walmart. Rotella 5w-40 is $12.xx/gal here.
 
I'm honestly curious here ...what non-existant problem are we trying to address by running a 15 Centistoke, 40wt oil in a new Honda engine that has a 9000 rpm redline? Keep in mind, Honda is recommending conventional 10w-30 oils in this application, as well as 5w-40's.

These V-Tec engines all burn some oil at high rpms - it's a design issue, not an oil related problem. If it's burning Redline it'll burn anything else you try. It will also run even higher oil and engine temps with the 5w-40, which is exactly the opposite of what you want.

TS
 
I like the 10W-30 ATM idea or perhaps GC 0W-30. Best and maybe most economical choice overall.
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I agree with TooSlick on this issue. I don't believe I'd use a 5W-40. I'd choose a nicely additized 10W-30 preferably on the thick side. Of the S2000's that I've fooled with, the thicker oils definitely made the engine quieter.

This engine might be a perfect candidate for GC 0W-30 or Amsoil's 10W-30. Mobil-1 has been a noisy choice that I've experienced.

The Japanese service manual shows 5W-40 being for all temperatures and 10W-30 being for temps. above -20ºC. If it's below -20ºC my convertible car is going to be in the garage anyway.
 
Thank you all for the feedback so far.

I'm leaning towards taking the majority advice here and possibly sticking with 10W-30 at least for one more oil change so I can run a few UOA's and see how everything is going.

Out of all the spec sheets I looked at, if I were to go the route of 5W-40, I was heavily in favor of the Motul. Then I started shopping around and realized that it's about $25 per 2L container. Since the motor holds a full six quarts I would have had to order 4 containers for one oil change and makeup oil. $100 per oil change is not what I'm looking for. I can get a case of 14 qts. of Redline for less money.

So I suppose now the debate is to stick with Redline or try Amsoil or GC.
 
I still say go with a 5W40 it is a better all around comprimise then 10W30 is! Honda is giveing you a choice so I would exercise it. Run them and test them let UOA be your guide. The engine is going to show a pref. for one of the two! I happen to think that 5W40 is the best comprimise for 95% of N. America and most peoples driveing style!
 
Perhaps a bit of extra info regarding my driving habits may help.

This is not my daily driver. When I take this car out it is for a minimum 30 minute drive. I don't redline every gear each time I get the chance but I would say that I indeed drive aggressive only after the oil is up to spec. I keep the RPM's low until after being on the road for about ten minutes and then I just do whatever.

I don't live between 6-9k rpm's but I go there often.
 
I've been researching other forums for this topic and found this quote:

"Engines need the flow ability of a light weight motor oil and the thermal breakdown protection of a heavier oil, thus the use of "multi-weight motor oil. Honda recommends 10w-30 for this car. I use 5w-30 in the winter and 10w-30 in the summer. I am going to stay away from the 5w-40 motor oil as it has the most non lubing viscosity modifiers."

Is that last sentence accurate? I think I need to do basic research on oil.
 
Ted I agree, however, in New Zealand, UK and Austrailia these same engines call for 5w-40 and even 50wt oils based on Shell and Mobil's Lube Finder recommendations. I agree though that a good 30wt is all you need.
 
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