which 5w-30?
- Thread starter Pao99
- Start date
5w is better than a 0w in almost everything. 0w has a lower temp range which most don't need anyway.
some will argue about that..not many 5 favors here on bitog.
In this Engineering Explained video starting at ~8:20, Jason explains, and uses charts to illustrate, why using a oil with a higher winter number (xW) or lower higher number (-xx) than what the manufacturers have specced, are more risky vs using lower winter or higher non-winter viscosities.
Using his example, my Pilot is only specced for 0W-20, but moving to a 0W-30 is still within the normal operating range of the engine, while 5W-30 would introduce a winter range not specced, and potentially, the engine is not designed to operate (I'm not saying it wouldn't be just fine, but potentially outside of spec). Same potential problem should I decide to run 0W-16, or God forbid, 0W-8 to "increase MPGs" <cough-cough> CAFE <cough>-<cough>! In this case, I'd deserve whatever came my way, especially living in central Texas.
It helps to remember that grade is a recommendation not a spec. Engines are designed to tolerate a minimum HT/HS without excessive wear, an oil with a higher one is acceptable and often desirable.In this Engineering Explained video starting at ~8:20, Jason explains, and uses charts to illustrate, why using a oil with a higher winter number (xW) or lower higher number (-xx) than what the manufacturers have specced, are more risky vs using lower winter or higher non-winter viscosities.
Using his example, my Pilot is only specced for 0W-20, but moving to a 0W-30 is still within the normal operating range of the engine, while 5W-30 would introduce a winter range not specced, and potentially, the engine is not designed to operate (I'm not saying it wouldn't be just fine, but potentially outside of spec). Same potential problem should I decide to run 0W-16, or God forbid, 0W-8 to "increase MPGs" <cough-cough> CAFE <cough>-<cough>! In this case, I'd deserve whatever came my way, especially living in central Texas.
Are they still using that? I thought I read they'd ditched the tungsten additives.
Nice video but light on actual numbers, especially the graph he presents around 10:35.In this Engineering Explained video starting at ~8:20, Jason explains, and uses charts to illustrate, why using a oil with a higher winter number (xW) or lower higher number (-xx) than what the manufacturers have specced, are more risky vs using lower winter or higher non-winter viscosities.
Using his example, my Pilot is only specced for 0W-20, but moving to a 0W-30 is still within the normal operating range of the engine, while 5W-30 would introduce a winter range not specced, and potentially, the engine is not designed to operate (I'm not saying it wouldn't be just fine, but potentially outside of spec). Same potential problem should I decide to run 0W-16, or God forbid, 0W-8 to "increase MPGs" <cough-cough> CAFE <cough>-<cough>! In this case, I'd deserve whatever came my way, especially living in central Texas.
In the real world, if you aren't using the motor in extreme cold, higher winter grades aren't really "more risky" except in a very pedantic sense. The difference in KV becomes pretty marginal over freezing and essentially no different between say a 0w, 5w, 10w over 20C. In the summer I would not hesitate to run a 10w40 or even 20w50 in a motor "specced" for 0w30 and know plenty of people who do just that in performance applications that prioritize protection over maximum power output.
On the other hand, there are people worried about running the "spec" 0w30 in their motor where the factory racecar version comes filled with 5w30 for endurance stints. It's hard to imagine any of these will make a difference for OP in Italy with his emissions defeated.
But excuse me. So here in Italy, should I use a 1040, which in the summer reaches 40°C?!? Is there a 1040 with a 507 specification? I mean, we're completely out of specification and gradation. Are we sure nothing will happen?! Some people say that 030 is better than 530... but others say the opposite.
Winter rating is irrelevant for you and should be ignored. Just go get any reputable oil with a 507 00 approval if that is what you're looking for.
Also ignore grade. The approval dictates a minimum HT/HS and that's what you'll get.
The grade is mostly irrelevant, you would normally go with approvals but you have deleted your DPF/EGR. I see little reason to limit yourself to 507-appproved oils. You could go with 505 or whatever the older, pre-DPF standard is. Or stick with 507 if that's more available. But I see no reason you couldn't run a 10w40 with 505 approval safely.
I understand for the car without FAP. I was wondering instead about the standard car with FAP and EGR.
Then get an oil with the correct approval.
Blenders change the formulations all the time. Some changes are within the interchange rules and don't require recertification, some do. It will say on the container if it has a particular approval or not. Go by that. Or check the VW approval lists.
Again when going by approval ignore the grade, and in your case ignore the winter rating. That won't indicate whether an oil has an approval or not. But it will be listed on the container.
Maybe I didn't explain myself. I don't care what's written on the packaging. I'm interested in knowing what Mobil 1 oils in the 0.30 or 5.30 grades are made of... especially the latest versions of the oils. Do they have PAO? Do they have esters? Or are they all HC? In cars with DPFs, I'll look for the 507 specification... but I'm interested in knowing how these oils are made.
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