which 5w-30?

Hello everyone from Italy. I'm writing to ask which oils to use and whether they're worth it.
In my Vag 2.0 TDI 150hp, I've always used Mobil 1 ESP 5W-30. Later, I removed the DPF, re-mapped it, and excluded the EGR. I was advised to use a 0W-40, so for the past 5-6 years, I've been using Mobil 1 FS 0W-40.

1) However, I read that Mobil 1 has lost quality in the ESP line... is that true?

2) The new ESP 5W-30 has a poorer base oil. While the 5W-30 ESP Formula P version continues to have the old base oil, with PAO GTL ESTER, etc. Do you confirm?
oldView attachment 289595new formula PView attachment 289596

3) I was thinking of starting to use Ravenol. The tests are all excellent. What's the difference between Ravenol VSW 0W-30 and VMP 5W-30?

4) In my car without a DPF, do you recommend continuing to use 0W-40? Or go back to 0/5W30?

5) I have another VAG, a completely original 2.0 TDI with DPF, AdBlue, etc. I live in an area where summer temperatures reach 40°C (104°F) and winter temperatures reach -5°C (23°F). Do you recommend 0W30 or 5W30?

Thanks everyone

This. https://www.walmart.com/ip/Castrol-...uarts/35931146?classType=REGULAR&from=/search
 
At the end all depend on your needs. I prefer oil with better base quality, cold-short runs performance + right warm protection and more stable properties over mileage, it's 0w range for me vs most 5w. You recon it checking chemical properties and performance over use.
5w is better than a 0w in almost everything. 0w has a lower temp range which most don't need anyway.
 
5w is better than a 0w in almost everything. 0w has a lower temp range which most don't need anyway.
In this Engineering Explained video starting at ~8:20, Jason explains, and uses charts to illustrate, why using a oil with a higher winter number (xW) or lower higher number (-xx) than what the manufacturers have specced, are more risky vs using lower winter or higher non-winter viscosities.

Using his example, my Pilot is only specced for 0W-20, but moving to a 0W-30 is still within the normal operating range of the engine, while 5W-30 would introduce a winter range not specced, and potentially, the engine is not designed to operate (I'm not saying it wouldn't be just fine, but potentially outside of spec). Same potential problem should I decide to run 0W-16, or God forbid, 0W-8 to "increase MPGs" <cough-cough> CAFE <cough>-<cough>! In this case, I'd deserve whatever came my way, especially living in central Texas. 😰
 
In this Engineering Explained video starting at ~8:20, Jason explains, and uses charts to illustrate, why using a oil with a higher winter number (xW) or lower higher number (-xx) than what the manufacturers have specced, are more risky vs using lower winter or higher non-winter viscosities.

Using his example, my Pilot is only specced for 0W-20, but moving to a 0W-30 is still within the normal operating range of the engine, while 5W-30 would introduce a winter range not specced, and potentially, the engine is not designed to operate (I'm not saying it wouldn't be just fine, but potentially outside of spec). Same potential problem should I decide to run 0W-16, or God forbid, 0W-8 to "increase MPGs" <cough-cough> CAFE <cough>-<cough>! In this case, I'd deserve whatever came my way, especially living in central Texas. 😰
It helps to remember that grade is a recommendation not a spec. Engines are designed to tolerate a minimum HT/HS without excessive wear, an oil with a higher one is acceptable and often desirable.
 
Are they still using that? I thought I read they'd ditched the tungsten additives.


In this Engineering Explained video starting at ~8:20, Jason explains, and uses charts to illustrate, why using a oil with a higher winter number (xW) or lower higher number (-xx) than what the manufacturers have specced, are more risky vs using lower winter or higher non-winter viscosities.

Using his example, my Pilot is only specced for 0W-20, but moving to a 0W-30 is still within the normal operating range of the engine, while 5W-30 would introduce a winter range not specced, and potentially, the engine is not designed to operate (I'm not saying it wouldn't be just fine, but potentially outside of spec). Same potential problem should I decide to run 0W-16, or God forbid, 0W-8 to "increase MPGs" <cough-cough> CAFE <cough>-<cough>! In this case, I'd deserve whatever came my way, especially living in central Texas. 😰
Nice video but light on actual numbers, especially the graph he presents around 10:35.

In the real world, if you aren't using the motor in extreme cold, higher winter grades aren't really "more risky" except in a very pedantic sense. The difference in KV becomes pretty marginal over freezing and essentially no different between say a 0w, 5w, 10w over 20C. In the summer I would not hesitate to run a 10w40 or even 20w50 in a motor "specced" for 0w30 and know plenty of people who do just that in performance applications that prioritize protection over maximum power output.
On the other hand, there are people worried about running the "spec" 0w30 in their motor where the factory racecar version comes filled with 5w30 for endurance stints. It's hard to imagine any of these will make a difference for OP in Italy with his emissions defeated.
 
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