Which 0w40 would you use?

[Deleted member 89374]

So here’s my problem - I use m1 0w40 as a base for cake cream, but when I put it to the freezer it’s not getting any thicker (to stay on a cake when ready). I’m trying to think is that because it doesn’t have LL01 or should I just go with 5w40?

Don't worry about LL01, for a thick and hearthy base cream, Vanilla Mobil 1 15W-50 is the recommended motor oil and viscosity.

 

[SlavaB]

Don't worry about LL01, for a thick and hearthy base cream, Vanilla Mobil 1 15W-50 is the recommended motor oil and viscosity.

I love Vanilla! Thx for a piece of good advice *running away to a local walmart*

 

[Averroes]

Shell also makes transmission fluid, brake fluid, gear lube, transfer case fluid, hub oil, blinker fluid and so on. You absolutely need to make sure that you match all the fluids in your vehicle and ensure that they are made by the same manufacturer. Thank Gog Shell also makes antifreeze because having to use any other brand would have seriously messed with my OCD. Though I don't know what I would do if I ever had to pump gas at a BP or Exxon gas station... I guess I'll cross that bridge when I get there and hopefully I won't start foaming or something.

Like I said I live in Toronto. Shell has great gas, especially their 91 since it is ethanol free, only other station that carries ethanol free premium gas in CT and that too it is because they are supplied by Shell. Shell's oil, specifically PP Ultra and Euro, have proven them selves time and time again through that various UOA's that have been posted here, more so for the 370z, Corolla engines and Euro engines alike. Do other manufactures make great oils? Duh. Beauty of a free market? You can buy what you want and when you want with a plethora of choices and they can be based of objective and subjective perspectives or both! SOPUS makes great products, just like Exxon and Castrol.

Their gear lubes are good, not great or the best, but they get the job done for everyday driving. If someone wants "more" there is Redline and Amsoil and other boutique brands, this board has all the info on that as well.

None the less, your humour and sarcasm are appreciated haha.

 

[Averroes]

Sometimes in Canada, the 0W rating is needed (sadly). Maybe not in Toronto though.
I have a distinct feeling some oils are 0W on paper but not in real life, like the Petronas Syntium 7000 for ex.

Yeah, it's not needed here in Toronto, it dips to what? Liek -30 MAX and that to if it's a bad one. I know places in Alberta, Quebec and Winnipeg do need that ) 0W rating though.

 

[Deleted member 89374]

None the less, your humour and sarcasm are appreciated.

Thank you, I was joking but at the same time poking fun at my own OCD. Sometimes I contemplate using the same brand for everything, however, common sense and economics usually prevail.

 

[Averroes]

Thank you, I was joking but at the same time poking fun at my own OCD. Sometimes I contemplate using the same brand for everything, however, common sense and economics usually prevail.

We've all been there. It's usually the feeling of using the same brand that gives you that "Ahhhh" feeling and like you're "apart of the team". No harm no foul. As long as you don't use all the products from the same brand and then SLAP on a sticker to prove you do, you're fine.

 

[Gene K]

I'm pretty sure that's why they clearanced the Chevron 5w40 and Shell Rotella T6 in 2.5gal jugs a few months ago because at a lot of stores it didn't sell enough of it, one store had jugs over 7 years old in it, although the Rotella jug I got was only filled in March, quite the deal at $15.

I'll give them a hint why the 2.5 gallon containers don't sell. It's usually more than 2.5x the cost of a gallon at my WalMart.

 

[eldrifto]

First post noob here but read lots over the years. registered to ask an lspi question. I had a 335i that gave up the ghost a while back and trying to wrap my mind around a full boost bone dry compression stroke and some oil getting in there causing pre-ignition and my bearing failure ultimately. the car is gone.

wondering if something about the Castro edge Euro synth formula was less prone to pre-ignition, like is it a higher octane that can take all that heat and a dry compression stroke lol.

looking into maybe another direct injected vehicle and would rather be educated before I pick one. thanks

 

[kschachn]

First post noob here but read lots over the years. registered to ask an lspi question. I had a 335i that gave up the ghost a while back and trying to wrap my mind around a full boost bone dry compression stroke and some oil getting in there causing pre-ignition and my bearing failure ultimately. the car is gone.

wondering if something about the Castro edge Euro synth formula was less prone to pre-ignition, like is it a higher octane that can take all that heat and a dry compression stroke lol.

looking into maybe another direct injected vehicle and would rather be educated before I pick one. thanks

That would be a question much better answered in a thread by itself.

 

[Deleted member 89374]

First post noob here but read lots over the years. registered to ask an lspi question. I had a 335i that gave up the ghost a while back and trying to wrap my mind around a full boost bone dry compression stroke and some oil getting in there causing pre-ignition and my bearing failure ultimately. the car is gone.

wondering if something about the Castro edge Euro synth formula was less prone to pre-ignition, like is it a higher octane that can take all that heat and a dry compression stroke lol.

looking into maybe another direct injected vehicle and would rather be educated before I pick one. thanks

I used to be very enthusiastic about GDI when it first came out into the mainstream. Hyundai was one of the early adopters. Now, I couldn't care less. The motor oil is a band-aid for bad engine designs and poor maintenance decisions by owners. A well designed GDI engine needs to run on high octane fuel. Using low NOAC motor oil helps as well. As far as I can tell, motor oil manufacturers are trying to "improve" motor oil, when in fact all they want to do is improve their bottom line. There is no rational explanation as to why all these new fancy API SP (and SN PLUS) oils have such high NOAC, other than the use of lower quality base oils. If you want an old school port-injected motor, get something with the Pentastar V6 in it. Or if you want GDI, get a Mazda, but run 5W-30 instead of 0W-20 in it. The owner manual allows you to do so. Unless you live way up north of course. Skip Hyundai, I hate their engines and can't wait to get rid of ours.

 

[eldrifto]

my very first thoughts when I saw the direct injected motors was oh wow the fuel is not in the compression stroke so you can use candle wax, like the diesels.. but if that was the case why do we have to run high octane fuel in them I'm starting to figure out..

the direct injected motors seem to be way overly built at least from the people I'm watching Port inject them and get gobs of power out of the stone stock na engines boosted

on one hand it's kind of discouraging, any nifty cars to buy, all falling into the direct injected category leaving nothing to pick from : ( without a thermonuclear size mod like switching to port injection, not my thing at this stage in life

 

[Krieg]

Mobil 1 first, Castrol second!

 

[SugarMouth]

I have both Castrol and M1 in the garage for the Merc.