Originally Posted By: elgallo
When to Switch to Synthetic on New Suzuki?
- Thread starter ABCarr
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Use the AMSOIL, put it in at the first scheduled oil change and don't look back. I have a friend who has over 70,000 + miles on his 2003 Kawasaki Vulcan 1600 and he only changes oil (AMSOIL 10W-40) once a year. Bike never uses a drop of oil. He also uses the EAOM103 filter.
All those trying to sell you on cheaper alternatives don't have anything to lose. What would you rather use? An oil made to a price point or an oil make to be the best it can be. We all know what happens when something is done on low price alone, short cuts are taken in order to meet the low price.
All those trying to sell you on cheaper alternatives don't have anything to lose. What would you rather use? An oil made to a price point or an oil make to be the best it can be. We all know what happens when something is done on low price alone, short cuts are taken in order to meet the low price.
Originally Posted By: car54
my UOA's tell me the much cheaper oils I run work perfectly well. 200 miles on my bike today, trying to get to 5k and see how this schaeffers 5w-50 holds up.
almost as much riding in one day as the OP has done since june. I bet he could run some non API dollar store oil and never wear his engine out. He's worried over lubrication for something he never even rides. just seems kinda funny to me.
That's not funny at all what the OP does. Most people here are running their full synthetis way short of what they should be. It's no different than someone running aftermarket full exhausts on their street bike. Unnecessary but it's for peace of mind and other factors.
OP....I just switched to full syn motul 7100 10w40 at 1200 miles. I myself will only use cycle specific oils in my 2011 kawasaki ninja 6. Have fun with it and use what ya want. Be safe and enjoy your suzuki. I used amsoil mct 10w40 in the past and that's what i would use. I'm using motul right now for no other reason than i've never used it before on my previous bikes. I want ti use parts and lubes on this bike i have never used before.
my UOA's tell me the much cheaper oils I run work perfectly well. 200 miles on my bike today, trying to get to 5k and see how this schaeffers 5w-50 holds up.
almost as much riding in one day as the OP has done since june. I bet he could run some non API dollar store oil and never wear his engine out. He's worried over lubrication for something he never even rides. just seems kinda funny to me.
That's not funny at all what the OP does. Most people here are running their full synthetis way short of what they should be. It's no different than someone running aftermarket full exhausts on their street bike. Unnecessary but it's for peace of mind and other factors.
OP....I just switched to full syn motul 7100 10w40 at 1200 miles. I myself will only use cycle specific oils in my 2011 kawasaki ninja 6. Have fun with it and use what ya want. Be safe and enjoy your suzuki. I used amsoil mct 10w40 in the past and that's what i would use. I'm using motul right now for no other reason than i've never used it before on my previous bikes. I want ti use parts and lubes on this bike i have never used before.
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Originally Posted By: ABCarr
The cost of Amsoil isn't really a factor. It's not that much more than dino oil to be a deterrent; the longer drain interval and added protection mitigates the extra cost (and I don't plan on extending the drain interval to the maximum suggested by Amsoil). I will more than likely stay with fresh dino for the balance of this riding season and switch next spring.
this is exactly what i would do if it was my bike.
The cost of Amsoil isn't really a factor. It's not that much more than dino oil to be a deterrent; the longer drain interval and added protection mitigates the extra cost (and I don't plan on extending the drain interval to the maximum suggested by Amsoil). I will more than likely stay with fresh dino for the balance of this riding season and switch next spring.
this is exactly what i would do if it was my bike.
Decided to go with the Rotella for the remainder of this season. I'll change it again for winter storage, then switch to the Amsoil next spring.
Changed to the Rotella T 15w30 just short of 1000 km. Now at 1300 km....oil "feels" good; slightly better shift quality; giving the motor some healthy revs now that break-in is progressing.
Typo (and I think you knew that!)....15w-40.
And let us not forget some of the excellent choices we have here from Petro Canada, with their Duron E series oils.
I have owned many Suzuki sportbikes. I would change the oil fast for first change after a few hundred miles. I would not nurse the break-in either, ride it hard. Any time after 1000 miles you can probably dump in synthetic as long as you ride it hard to seat the rings. However, I am also learning that some conventional oils perform just as well in bikes, so I have headed in another direction. I also do not rack up many miles per year so I tend to change the oil at about 1500-2000 miles anyway.
There's absolutely no advantage running a synthetic oil in a conventional oil application.
If you're not getting the benefits of the advantages provided by synthetic oil, why bother? It's simply a waste of good oil and money. Synthetics are best utilized in highly stressful and/or long duration applications. Street riding and short OCIs certainly do not fall under those conditions.
If you're not getting the benefits of the advantages provided by synthetic oil, why bother? It's simply a waste of good oil and money. Synthetics are best utilized in highly stressful and/or long duration applications. Street riding and short OCIs certainly do not fall under those conditions.
Just an update....I should reach my target of 3000 km for the season this weekend. Will do another change to Rotella T 15w40 for winter storage, then switch to Amsoil in the spring.
what's the point of changing oil for winter storage, then again in the spring?
Originally Posted By: boraticus
Originally Posted By: BigCahuna
what's the point of changing oil for winter storage, then again in the spring?
Appeasing the OCD bogey man???
Other than that, nothing.
Back in the day before i had BITOG in my cornner i did this very thing, my reasoning was i started the bikes once a month in the winter and didnt want the heavier weight oil in the bike for startup in sub zero temps (fearing it would cause damage) and other local bikers suggested for those few winter dry road days to run something thinner, Of course nowadays i have more knowledge. to the OP: changing out your oil for winter is ok, just dont waste it come spring, run the bike out to a normal OCI and then put your choice of oil in the sump.
Originally Posted By: BigCahuna
what's the point of changing oil for winter storage, then again in the spring?
Appeasing the OCD bogey man???
Other than that, nothing.
Back in the day before i had BITOG in my cornner i did this very thing, my reasoning was i started the bikes once a month in the winter and didnt want the heavier weight oil in the bike for startup in sub zero temps (fearing it would cause damage) and other local bikers suggested for those few winter dry road days to run something thinner, Of course nowadays i have more knowledge. to the OP: changing out your oil for winter is ok, just dont waste it come spring, run the bike out to a normal OCI and then put your choice of oil in the sump.
Originally Posted By: boraticus
Originally Posted By: BigCahuna
what's the point of changing oil for winter storage, then again in the spring?
Appeasing the OCD bogey man???
Other than that, nothing.
Ok...OK....I'm busted. Here's the deal: first bike, new bike, wanting to do the best thing for the motor. I've been back and forth on the "sacrificial" winter storage oil change. Some of the more ardent winterizing recommendations suggest it of course, noting that the small cost is justification for peace of mind, theorizing that some condensation might be picked up during the storage period. I think you've all convinced me now that the condensation will be quickly burned off during that first spring ride, so in goes the Amsoil next weekend.
Originally Posted By: BigCahuna
what's the point of changing oil for winter storage, then again in the spring?
Appeasing the OCD bogey man???
Other than that, nothing.
Ok...OK....I'm busted. Here's the deal: first bike, new bike, wanting to do the best thing for the motor. I've been back and forth on the "sacrificial" winter storage oil change. Some of the more ardent winterizing recommendations suggest it of course, noting that the small cost is justification for peace of mind, theorizing that some condensation might be picked up during the storage period. I think you've all convinced me now that the condensation will be quickly burned off during that first spring ride, so in goes the Amsoil next weekend.
Condensation accumulation in oil during storage is wildly exaggerated. Particularly if the machine has some form of shelter. I'd be more concerned about possibility of corrosion on the outside of the machine than what's happening inside.
Most people who advise unnecessary maintenance, more than likely are a bit shy on experience and/or mechanical understanding. Or, they have one machine only that they dote and worry over. I have too many machines to mention to maintain. I've had numerous machines for decades and none get anything other than basic necessary maintenance. My machines always start, run well and last long useful lives. From a cost/benefit perspective, I save tons of money compared to what it would cost me if I were to follow the suggestion of the OCD crowd. Common sense should be your guide. However, it's a good idea to have some mechanical understanding to put common sense to work.
Most people who advise unnecessary maintenance, more than likely are a bit shy on experience and/or mechanical understanding. Or, they have one machine only that they dote and worry over. I have too many machines to mention to maintain. I've had numerous machines for decades and none get anything other than basic necessary maintenance. My machines always start, run well and last long useful lives. From a cost/benefit perspective, I save tons of money compared to what it would cost me if I were to follow the suggestion of the OCD crowd. Common sense should be your guide. However, it's a good idea to have some mechanical understanding to put common sense to work.
It really depends on where you live and how you store your equipment. Here in the PNW condensation on any surface is real. The worst is when we have a fairly dry, but very cold streak maybe 5-10°F for a week or so, followed quickly by a very wet warm system in the 50-60°F range. I can see the moisture collect - stuff rusts very fast here. My attached garage never gets below freezing and even in there the floor sweats. But really as long as a good oil with rust inhibitors, strong antioxidants and a stout TBN is used, there is no need to swap it over frequently on "human feel".
I don't believe any of that hype of putting in winter oil and stuff in a bike. Only way I would even think of that would be if the bike was kept outside in extreme weather changes. I have owned many bikes over the years and I usually leave the oil in then dump in new in the spring. But I have even left fairly new oil over the winter and then road the bike in the spring for a while with the same oil. All my bikes were kept in either a garage or shed. The garage now has heat and a/c pumped into it, so I worry even less about this stuff.
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