When to change hoses?

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96 Mercury Sable Duratec, 91000 miles. All original hoses, they still feel soft & pliable.
I've changed the anti-freeze every 3 years, but nary a hose...Knock on wood.

BTW, with some of the dozen or so hoses nearly impossible (for me) to get to; I got a price from the dealer to change them all & also the thermostat. Are you ready for this, gulp $700.
 
Most of the coolant hoses on my 88 528E are original with 328k miles on them. I do my own maintenance and I check them frequently. If they look good .............
 
Thing is, the lower hose catches just enough salt-crud off the road, and seems to "live" a harder "life" than the upper hoses. I always figured, the system's empty now, might as well do it.

Anyone know who makes the braided stainless hoses? They're silicone inside, aren't they? Is silicone better? Would it affect the coolant?
 
Mine get all new hoses, belts, and thermostats and antifreeze, brake fluid flush every 50,000 miles. There is some things I don't cheap on. I drive worry free. On the other hand, my brother missed his own wedding rehearsal and dinner because his lower radiator hose blew at 90k miles.
 
When they fail.... like me... coolant flush, change one hose...... a month later radiator starts leaking, replace radiator (lots of coolant too).... a month later other hose starts leaking, replace (lots of coolant too)..... a month later thermostat acting up, replace (some coolant too)...... overflow tank not working right, plugged with Barr's sealer from the leaking radiator, clean, flush line (some coolant too).... heater hoses look like they need replacing, so that's next..... this must be the redneck way to flush coolant :^)
 
I usually change hoses after 7 years.

Normally when I have to do service, I change the associated parts.

So if I have to change a water pump or timing belt, I'll consider the belts and hoses, etc.
 
On cars that use spring loaded clips (like Honda and Toyota) you should first disconnect the hose out of the radiator and inspect them before you replace. It is a waste of money otherwise.

For those cars who have them cramped on due to cheapness (i.e. my dad's Taurus), it is better to change them out early and replace them with removable crimp, because I think they would have cheaped out the hose material too.
 
quote:

Originally posted by ebc:
Good thread. What kind of pliers works well on those constant pressure clamps that come on newer cars? Those things can be a bear!
Regards,
ebc


I use a 3 piece very large set of needle nose pliers. The 45 degree one get s the biggest work out. Cheap at Harbor Freight. 14" or so.
 
quote:

Originally posted by ebc:
Good thread. What kind of pliers works well on those constant pressure clamps that come on newer cars? Those things can be a bear!
Regards,
ebc


We have thrashed hoses around with no definite conclusion. Can we do better on clamps? Guess I should have looked closer at what is on my 02 Cavalier. I am most familiar with 2 different types. The one piece wire ones with the ends turned up. In the past, when I have had to remove one of them, once off, I pitched them and replaced them with the SS band gear type. I did not use kind words like ''a bear'' for the originals. There is also a similar working clamp that is a thin metal band with little bent up prongs only slightly easier to remove. There are also some cheaper looking things, galvanized with a smaller screw than the gear clamps.

As long as I owned good iron, the gear clamps served me well. Since I have been here, others have suggested the gear clamps won't stay tight on aluminum fittings. You need a clamp with constant spring tension. As I think about it, I have had more trouble having to retighten gear clamps on newer stuff.

They used to make special pliers for the wire style clamps. They were mostly just regular pliers except they had a hole the end of each side the wire fit into holding it securely. I never bought any figuring I could fight each clamp once getting it off and then pitch it. Realizing the geared clamps don't work as well as they used to, I considered buying a pair of those pliers, but just don't like the wire clamps. They never open up enough to come off easily, and often will not tighten up enough if you ever remove and replace a hose.

So what works well to clamp hoses to aluminum fittings? I think somebody posted a picture of a clamp that worked like the gear clamps, but had steel springs in the middle. Even if they are expensive and hard to find, could be worth it if you plan to keep a car long enough to do a few hose changes.
 
The best worm gear clamps are Swedish ABA clamps. They have rolled up band edges that don't cut into hoses. They also are designed in way that the whole clamp exerts even pressure on the hose, which isn't the case with cheap clamps. I hate the regular hose clamps that you can find at any hardware store. Another good brand, similar to but less costly than ABA clamps, are German NORMA clamps. They make a variety of worm gear and S clamps. I don't care for crimp-on clamps at all and have replaced all of those on my car.

Google ABA and Norma to find retailers.

These are two Norma clamps I just happen to have. Note the construction:

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I poked around out in my garage and found a Norma clamp. Unless piece of junk, may as well pitch it. For some reason it had been opened completely, and as I fooled around with it, there is no getting the end threaded back in. I have run into similar clamps and not been impressed. Occasionally you need to open a clamp to remove it or install it. Remind me not to take another one of those apart. Rolled edge? The only time I have seen the edge cut into the hose is when some kid took time away from overtigthening drain plugs and filters to tighten one up. Sounds like more of the dysfunctional, overpriced European junk you favor. Certainly doesn't look like the answer to the contraction on cooling problem with the regular ones.

Glad you called my attention to them. Otherwise, I might have accidentally bought one.
 
labman, you make me laugh.
lol.gif


I have no issues opening those clamps completely and threading in the back again. What were you doing?
 
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