When do you guys call it quits on vehicles.

[Andrew1972]

In 2014 we spent nearly $2800 on our 175k 2005 Legacy turbo wagon 5mt to get a burned valve repaired. In the process it got all sorts of maintenance (plugs,timing belt etc) done.

In 2015 we hit $600 front brakes(187k) seized caliper, pads, rotors etc and torn front axle boot($200). To get $500 in four new tires(wear item) we needed $200 in front end suspension work to align($80) the car.

2011/2012/2013 the repairs never hit $200-$500/year albeit
2016 to start

the rear brakes will need replacing including rotors likely $350. Also hatch wiring harness is partially broken and fraying (rear wiper dead) but may lead to reverse lights out needed for inspection($350 fix or $120 no guarantee patching-both difficult).

What is folks tolerance for this stuff?

 

[slacktide_bitog]

When it costs more to fix than it would be to buy a better car.

If a car is crashed really bad, that's another time to buy a new car.

Or if a car can't pass inspection and cost too much to fix within the month.

 

[Nick1994]

Need to start doing repairs yourself. $600 for front brakes? That's a $100-$120 job and a few hours of time.

 

[HerrStig]

Originally Posted By: madRiver
In 2014 we spent nearly $2800 on our 175k 2005 Legacy turbo wagon 5mt to get a burned valve repaired. In the process it got all sorts of maintenance (plugs,timing belt etc) done.

In 2015 we hit $600 front brakes(187k) seized caliper, pads, rotors etc and torn front axle boot($200). To get $500 in four new tires(wear item) we needed $200 in front end suspension work to align($80) the car.

2011/2012/2013 the repairs never hit $200-$500/year albeit
2016 to start

the rear brakes will need replacing including rotors likely $350. Also hatch wiring harness is partially broken and fraying (rear wiper dead) but may lead to reverse lights out needed for inspection($350 fix or $120 no guarantee patching-both difficult).

What is folks tolerance for this stuff?
Who is doing this hosing to you?

 

[zach1900]

I used to justify new cars over normal maintenance items in my younger days until i realized i never factored in taxes and the hassle of the DMV (dept of mexican voting).

 

[KGMtech]

This is a real confusing situation IMO. Cars don't rust as bad as they did before, the exhaust systems are mostly stainless, fuel injection made the engines last far longer, ever improving engine oils, transmission fluids etc. keep things going and going. If your 12 year old car has ABS, airbags, galvanized sheet metal, it is hard to know when to cut bait?

Repairs, replacements are common to newer cars, so what is the critical sign? I'm clueless.

 

[OneEyeJack]

What are your driving habits? Are you a bit hard on your vehicle? Is it time to slow up and take life a bit easier?

 

[DemoFly]

I call it quits when the surprise expenses become a danger to my budget. (IE tapping into savings and pulling out a substantial amount several times in rapid succession.)

It's easy to budget a steady car payment once a month. It also comes with the bonus of not having to work on your car anymore for a few years.

 

[mclasser]

Originally Posted By: Nick1994
Need to start doing repairs yourself. $600 for front brakes? That's a $100-$120 job and a few hours of time.

+1

 

[Run]

I call it quits when the engine and transmission calls it quits. My previous vehicle has a bad trans slip when cold and began to leak trans fluid from the torque converter. Couple that with leaky main seals on the engine. At 230K miles it was time for a new ride.

 

[zach1900]

Originally Posted By: DemoFly
I call it quits when the surprise expenses become a danger to my budget. (IE tapping into savings and pulling out a substantial amount several times in rapid succession.)

It's easy to budget a steady car payment once a month. It also comes with the bonus of not having to work on your car anymore for a few years.

Good point, a car under warranty and a fixed payment can offer piece of mind.

 

[zach1900]

Originally Posted By: Run
I call it quits when the engine and transmission calls it quits. My previous vehicle has a bad trans slip when cold and began to leak trans fluid from the torque converter. Couple that with leaky main seals on the engine. At 230K miles it was time for a new ride.

In my experience those are the parts that seem to go forever.

 

[zach1900]

How does one burn a valve?

 

[Kuato]

I move to a new vehicle when my monthly expenditure, pro rated for the last 36 months, adds up to $150 per month or more.

This allows for normal maintenance, the occasional big repair, and accounts for my time spent in working on, or waiting for, repairs.

In your case I would pro rate it and if another big repair came along that would push it above the level where it is...let 'er go.

 

[bubbatime]

$300 monthly car payment = $3600 a year
$400 monthly car payment = $4800 a year
$500 monthly car payment = $6000 a year

If repairs remain well under a yearly car payment, I'd stick with your current car. If repairs start to total 75% or more of what a new car payment cost, I'd look at trading in the car. If it cost you $1500/yr to maintain your vehicle that equates to a $125/month car payment. Still much cheaper than a new car. Most people buy a new car when they WANT a new car, not when they NEED a new car.

 

[Rand]

You put that much into it.. might as well spend the 1000$ and keep driving it now.

Also those brake prices are horrible... going to the dealer?

I did front and back rotors+pads for about 200$

 

[JHZR2]

Originally Posted By: slacktide_bitog
When it costs more to fix than it would be to buy a better car.

If a car is crashed really bad, that's another time to buy a new car.

Or if a car can't pass inspection and cost too much to fix within the month.


+1. The car is worth what it costs to replace it. And while people can play mathematical games, reality is that the equivalence is a new vehicle substantially the same as the old one (because amortized over the usable life, many used cars are poor values, especially since repairs do come up and the number of miles to spread them across is fewer).

People should save monthly to buy a new car cash when the time comes. Id assume with an older car, the amount of cash saved has already been sufficiently enough to replace the car, so the question becomes, what is the cash outlay for repairs compared to the standard savings rate that has been maintained over the years. If repairs start to be sufficiently high to not be able ot be paid with a year's savings, Id say its starting to get too high.

But that may also be contingent upon condition (if you really like a car, a $4k repair bill may not be that much), and especially rust and past history/damage/etc.

There is no hard and fast rule. But that's how I look at it. Youre generally better off paying for some repairs because the funds lost (even on a "depreciated" used car) due to depreciation are high enough that you cant win. So you get the new car when you want to, and when things are just so bad (especially due to corrosion, utility, safety, etc) to justify...

This is a good way to look at it:

Originally Posted By: bubbatime
$300 monthly car payment = $3600 a year
$400 monthly car payment = $4800 a year
$500 monthly car payment = $6000 a year

If repairs remain well under a yearly car payment, I'd stick with your current car. If repairs start to total 75% or more of what a new car payment cost, I'd look at trading in the car. If it cost you $1500/yr to maintain your vehicle that equates to a $125/month car payment. Still much cheaper than a new car. Most people buy a new car when they WANT a new car, not when they NEED a new car.

 

[Trav]

I call it quits when the frame is shot in most cases, if its a good car/truck with a good body and running gear i might even swap the frame.
Body rust, blown engines and transmissions are no big deal as is paint, body and interior work.

 

[wander2039]

Only called it quits on one vehicle.. 97 Ford Aspire. Bought it was for $250 and the radio and tires were worth that so not a complete loss. Why I called it quits..

Constant CEL.. Would require a new cat
Constant pull the right.. was wrecked several time on the passenger side
Dead A/C

Did run and shift great so still have it for a Festiva backup. The suspension went on a Festiva that was sold. In end cost more to fix than worth.

 

[cat843]

Some of this depends upon how much of the work you can do yourself. And if the car is required to drive to work on a daily basis. And if you have a second car.

If you absolutely must drive to work daily, you need a reliable car, so a new one under warranty makes sense.

If you have several vehicles in your family, then you can get away with keeping the car longer and spending money on repairs.

For most cars that are not in an accident, I would guess either its rusts out or transmission dies and it goes to the boneyard.